92 replies to this topic

[Hunter2]

Standing in line to blast the doors, bonnet inside corners & shell...were 11 cars ahead of us when we went to book so March 28th before we can prepare for epoxy primer.

[Hunter2]

Shell, doors & bonnet all glass beaded ready for Epoxy primer....

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[Hunter2]

Bonnet, doors & new blasted rear subbie in epoxy primer yesterday.

Doors now at least 55 years old will need some TLC from the body man before paint.

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[Hunter2]

Rear Sub Frame in Gloss Black...and External Tank off for hi-heat wash & test.  Another good day!

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[Jared Mk3]

Subby looks good.

[FlyingScot]

Looking good, you have a head of steam behind you now.

FS

[Hunter2]

As you all know building a Mini involves many items & expenses.  Just this past week, $700 Cdn for glass bead blasting, $500 Cdn for paint & supplies, $385 US for new wiring harness, 5 wheels & tyres ordered est. $1,000 Cdn.  Final body & paint will likely be in the neighbourhood of $5,000 Cdn plus supplies.

 

Fortunately, I acquired the long since paid for shell & replacement steel & new wood for $2,100 Cdn.  I also had a 20 over Austin America block & 20 over Cooper S pistons free (new Hastings rings were $100 cdn.  Long since paid for new A+ crank & rods.  Long paid for new rod change shifter, new steering rack, new upper arms, new HD adj. lower arms & tie-rods.  Long since paid for new rear subbie.  Long since paid for pre-verto starter, lightweight flywheel & clutch components and electronic distributor.

 

1.3 ratio roller tip rockers were a Christmas present.  Swiftune cam, lifters, pushrods, duplex timing gears/chains were also on the shelf. $140 for crack testing and boiling block & 2 heads (heads I finished in molasses/water bath).  Also had new bronze silicon valve guides, new double springs, new valves oil seals.  We built the head ourselves (be careful with ream/hone advice - intake & exhaust valves may not be the same diameter).  About $300 paid for machining & balancing,

 

Hi-heat wash & test of fuel tank $175 to be paid, roughly $1,000 Cdn to be paid for new Cooper S brake set up. 

 

Need to build up an A+ tranny, have case & gears & new pot joints, good used driveshafts, all from the on hand parts bin.  Need to decide what interior to put in the Woody....

 

I had better stop though I know the result will be a good one.

[David128]

Welcome to the world of Mini's reminds me of the Film/Movie  Money Pit!

[spike 25]

As you all know building a Mini involves many items & expenses.  Just this past week, $700 Cdn for glass bead blasting, $500 Cdn for paint & supplies, $385 US for new wiring harness, 5 wheels & tyres ordered est. $1,000 Cdn.  Final body & paint will likely be in the neighbourhood of $5,000 Cdn plus supplies.
 
Fortunately, I acquired the long since paid for shell & replacement steel & new wood for $2,100 Cdn.  I also had a 20 over Austin America block & 20 over Cooper S pistons free (new Hastings rings were $100 cdn.  Long since paid for new A+ crank & rods.  Long paid for new rod change shifter, new steering rack, new upper arms, new HD adj. lower arms & tie-rods.  Long since paid for new rear subbie.  Long since paid for pre-verto starter, lightweight flywheel & clutch components and electronic distributor.
 
1.3 ratio roller tip rockers were a Christmas present.  Swiftune cam, lifters, pushrods, duplex timing gears/chains were also on the shelf. $140 for crack testing and boiling block & 2 heads (heads I finished in molasses/water bath).  Also had new bronze silicon valve guides, new double springs, new valves oil seals.  We built the head ourselves (be careful with ream/hone advice - intake & exhaust valves may not be the same diameter).  About $300 paid for machining & balancing,
 
Hi-heat wash & test of fuel tank $175 to be paid, roughly $1,000 Cdn to be paid for new Cooper S brake set up. 
 
Need to build up an A+ tranny, have case & gears & new pot joints, good used driveshafts, all from the on hand parts bin.  Need to decide what interior to put in the Woody....
 
I had better stop though I know the result will be a good one.

Looking very good my friend . When you start restoring a mini of any variant its seems like the money tap never stops running but is money well spent on such small cars as they give so much pleasure to everybody of all ages

[Hunter2]

Last week we got the Countryman into epoxy primer...and got 'lucky'.

 

A Mini club friend brought a pair of freshly blasted sub frames for epoxy too...and his late Canadian Mini 1000 front subbie had the bracket for the lower engine steady.

 

I was off to get my front subbie and some heavier gauge steel...presto LUCKY now has a lower engine steady too

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[Hunter2]

Today we got LUCKY seam sealed and bottom undercoated...Lime Squeeze Metallic paint on the bottom on Thursday.

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[Jared Mk3]

That floor looks really good underneath now. Good work.

[Hunter2]

Got the fuel tank back after hi-heat boil out/paint removal, inspection & testing.  Shop said it must have had fuel in it..."looks like new inside".

 

Certainly not 'new' in the conventional sense.  I had it in dry storage for 11 years...but know nothing of its earlier history.  The cork seal on the fuel sender was 'welded' to the tank...needed razor knife to separate it from the tank.

 

However, now bare steel ready for epoxy prime then paint.  Pitter, patter....

 

Tonight new pin kits go into the exterior hinge sets, We chat about building the A+ tranny for the now built 1293.  New wiring loom & relay box in hand.

 

Lots more to do but coming along

[Hunter2]

2 coats of Lime Squeeze Metallic & 3 clear coats on the bottom.  Will flip the shell over for the last time tomorrow to fit the wood before final body & paint.

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[Jared Mk3]

That colour is nice.