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My First Van Project


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#16 Scrumpjack

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Posted 09 January 2016 - 01:59 PM

Great stuff.  Now it'll get a bit photo heavy  :D

 

Can you all take a look and let me know your thoughts.

 

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And then this happened !!

 

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Then the other side

 

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Cheers all



#17 Scrumpjack

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Posted 10 January 2016 - 08:11 PM

There are a few patches on the underside and they look a bit of a bodge covered with filler or underseal or both !!
So I am thinking a complete floor from M-Machine ? That might be a bit extreme but hey it'll look nice :-)
I better buy myself a welder , oh and teach myself to weld !

Darren

#18 domdee

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Posted 10 January 2016 - 09:19 PM

Looks a cracking van shell compared to how some of the others start out on here.

#19 minimissions

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Posted 11 January 2016 - 06:28 AM

Doesn't look a bad shell at all. Good luck with the build will be watching this one :)


Edited by minimissions, 11 January 2016 - 06:28 AM.


#20 Daz1968

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Posted 11 January 2016 - 06:10 PM

Looking good, if the budget allows a full floor is much quicker and easier than individual repairs and not as difficult as I first thought. Another plus point is the floor is aligned correctly so enables everything else to be fitted easier. I have recently fitted m machine floor in my mk2 saloon. As yours is a rod change shell then I think the heritage panels would be cheaper than m machine. Just take your time and check all dimensions and I also found having everything level helped as things can then be checked with a spirit level.

#21 Scrumpjack

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Posted 11 January 2016 - 09:08 PM

Thanks for the replies. Daz1968 I will take loads of pics and measurements before I start and good point about trying to get it level, luckily the rollover jig has loads of holes to move it up or down. I spoke to M-Machine and they reckon it would be £700, heritage is that plus the dreaded vodka and tonic. Hey Daz your not to far from me so ya better go into hiding because I'm gonna need plenty of help on this one :-).

#22 Daz1968

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Posted 11 January 2016 - 10:15 PM

I did mine off the spit, I left front subframe on, put axle stands under that and boot floor, got it all level and cut out the floor, then put in the new, bolted on the rear subframe and checked all levels and dimensions. Then after welding in floor at the toeboard I replaced the door steps this then tied floor to b post also left doors on to aid alignment.
Was first time I have replaced a full floor but would do exactly the same way if I ever do another.
Others may have done it different but I found it extremely easy this way and have confidence the car is dimensionally correct.

#23 SAL 821X

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 10:58 AM

Looked at the first pictures and thought "Get those sills off man" low and behold you had. 

 

If the cash allows it and you feel confident go full floor as it will be easier in the long run. 

 

Although looking and the pictures full quarter length floor, inner sill and outer sills wouldn't be to difficult.



#24 Mr Frosty

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 11:49 AM

As SAL said if budget allows go for the full floor, as long as you plan and prepare it would not be two difficult either way.

Mine is a bit of a patch work underneath but a plan to cover with stone chip so no one will see it unless my son puts it on its side when he gets let loose.

Welding is not to hard with a little practice you just need a sensible welder and a good shield, plenty of advice on the forum.  



#25 Scrumpjack

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 03:35 PM

Cheers SAL and Mr frosty

I was thinking about buying the seperate panels but that little voice in my head keeps sending me to the complete floor section part !!!
I suppose I best get saving ! The missing part of the rollover jig turned up today so at least I can remove the bit of 5 x 2.
Also the front subframe is back from powder coating - it looks good but I went for satin black but now thinking gloss would have looked better ! Hey ho.
Cheers

Darren

#26 Van13

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 06:33 PM

That's a great starting point for you mine is sha**ed it needs everything
I've also ordered the full floor for mine , good luck with it

#27 bpirie1000

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 08:14 PM

'vAn'tastic........

Sure your learning curve is about to get steeper.....

#28 Scrumpjack

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 08:24 PM

I'm sure it is bpirie1000 but life would be boring if everything was easy ! Any ways gonna share my troubles on here that's got ta help a bit :-)

#29 SAL 821X

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 12:54 PM

What are the front pans and x-memeber like inside? 

 

M Machine half floors are:

31.33.01.37 Sill, Floor Half & Stiffener Assembly, LH, Mk1-3, Van & Pick-Up 101.50 121.80 

31.33.01.38 Sill, Floor Half & Stiffener Assembly, RH, Mk1-3, Van & Pick-Up 101.50 121.80

 

And a lot less hassle. I wish I had used these on mine but live and learn.

 

Also download this 

 

http://www.m-machine.co.uk/cat.pdf

 

Print it out, place next to the bog and spend hours studying it....  :D

 

You also get a discount being a TMF+ member.



#30 Scrumpjack

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 02:01 PM

Ha ha nice one SAL. The drivers footwell is full of pinholes and the passenger just seems really flimsy. Cross member not to bad but would need some work. I didn't know you get discount at m-machine ? How do I get it and how much is the discount ??




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