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Headlight Selector Switch Melting

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#16 cristiano1968

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Posted 24 February 2016 - 08:39 PM

Hi my headlight switch
Kept melting also.
Fitted relays .
Solved it sraight away.

#17 WimpyMiniMan

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Posted 24 February 2016 - 08:43 PM

I have ordered a new switch plug as that was becoming burnt and a new switch from mini spares - hopefully this will solve the problem - if not I will invest in a relay as they are a little more expensive.

#18 Carlos W

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Posted 24 February 2016 - 08:44 PM

I have ordered a new switch plug as that was becoming burnt and a new switch from mini spares - hopefully this will solve the problem - if not I will invest in a relay as they are a little more expensive.


Are your headlights standard?

#19 WimpyMiniMan

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Posted 24 February 2016 - 08:47 PM

Yes they are the standard mini 1000 city e headlights.

#20 WimpyMiniMan

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Posted 24 February 2016 - 08:47 PM

I have ordered a new switch plug as that was becoming burnt and a new switch from mini spares - hopefully this will solve the problem - if not I will invest in a relay as they are a little more expensive.

Are your headlights standard?


#21 Carlos W

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    Mine is purple, but I have been told that's normal

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Posted 24 February 2016 - 08:52 PM

Wiredbywilson do a plug and play relayed wiring upgrade.

This takes a lot of the current away from the switches as it takes a very low current to operate the relays

#22 MRA

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Posted 24 February 2016 - 09:22 PM

All DIY mini mechanics should have a thermal camera in their tool boxes along with Dry ice for bearings, a must.

 

Couldn't agree more.



#23 1984mini25

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Posted 24 February 2016 - 09:30 PM

I have ordered a new switch plug as that was becoming burnt and a new switch from mini spares - hopefully this will solve the problem - if not I will invest in a relay as they are a little more expensive.

 

You can quite easily go down to Halfords and even eBay and buy 2 pre wired fog/spot lamp wiring kits for a tenner each, with more than enough wiring and the required relays, fuses etc. to wire up some relays to the headlamp circuits.

 

Yes they are the standard mini 1000 city e headlights.

 

A city e would of had sealed beams as standard (candle in jam jars), as in the headlamp with those is in effect the bulb. If you have removable bulbs (possibly h4's), then your headlamps (might even have halogen on them) aren't standard.


Edited by 1984mini25, 24 February 2016 - 09:32 PM.


#24 WimpyMiniMan

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Posted 24 February 2016 - 10:37 PM


I have ordered a new switch plug as that was becoming burnt and a new switch from mini spares - hopefully this will solve the problem - if not I will invest in a relay as they are a little more expensive.

 
You can quite easily go down to Halfords and even eBay and buy 2 pre wired fog/spot lamp wiring kits for a tenner each, with more than enough wiring and the required relays, fuses etc. to wire up some relays to the headlamp circuits.
 

Yes they are the standard mini 1000 city e headlights.

 
A city e would of had sealed beams as standard (candle in jam jars), as in the headlamp with those is in effect the bulb. If you have removable bulbs (possibly h4's), then your headlamps (might even have halogen on them) aren't standard.
If the new switch fails this is something I would consider having a go at.

#25 Mini Manannán

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Posted 25 February 2016 - 03:41 AM

 

All DIY mini mechanics should have a thermal camera in their tool boxes along with Dry ice for bearings, a must.

I believe there is an "App" for the Apple and probably Android phones which is a thermal image camera.

 

Dry Ice - Plumbers freeze spray = same result.

 

Phil.

 

 

I've looked into these. There is an app that 'looks' like a thermal imaging camera but it's only for creating "cool images".  About the only option short of forking out loads of wad is something like this: http://www.amazon.co...RGR7Q6TE2QRJPPV  but that's still £200 :(



#26 phil hill

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Posted 25 February 2016 - 10:41 AM

I've looked into these. There is an app that 'looks' like a thermal imaging camera but it's only for creating "cool images".  About the only option short of forking out loads of wad is something like this: http://www.amazon.co...RGR7Q6TE2QRJPPV  but that's still £200 :(

 

Is that right ??  Damn, I feel so cheated lol !!

 

Curse you Apple and your cheating apps !!

 

Phil.



#27 dklawson

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Posted 25 February 2016 - 12:57 PM

Oddly enough, while listening to the morning news on the radio I heard a story about Caterpillar (the earth moving equipment company) selling a phone that has a real IR camera in it.  The story commented it was aimed at tradesmen who could benefit from having the device in something they carried with them all the time anyway. 

 

Article on IR smartphone linked here.



#28 tiger99

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Posted 25 February 2016 - 09:20 PM

When adding relays, make VERY sure that failure of any ONE relay will not take out both headlights, otherwise you are seriously increasing the risk of a crash due to losing both headlights simultaneously in the dark. That goes for fuses too. Relays are usually cheap, nasty things, which like everything else electrical can fail suddenly.

 

The ideal is 4 relays, one each for main and dip, each side, and you can fuse the feed to each side separately (2 fuses) or each filament (4 fuses). Earth the left and right lights separately, and also the left and right relays.

 

Relays are a good idea, if done correctly.

 

As to earlier remarks about high circuit resistance, that WILL NOT cause the switch to overheat, UNLESS the high resistance is right at the switch terminal, i.e. degraded female connector on the blue wire. If, and only if you have a proper, good quality crimp tool, it is worth replacing the terminals on the brown and blue wires. Use of a cheap crimp tool invariably leads to trouble later.



#29 WimpyMiniMan

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Posted 25 February 2016 - 10:01 PM

When adding relays, make VERY sure that failure of any ONE relay will not take out both headlights, otherwise you are seriously increasing the risk of a crash due to losing both headlights simultaneously in the dark. That goes for fuses too. Relays are usually cheap, nasty things, which like everything else electrical can fail suddenly.

 

The ideal is 4 relays, one each for main and dip, each side, and you can fuse the feed to each side separately (2 fuses) or each filament (4 fuses). Earth the left and right lights separately, and also the left and right relays.

 

Relays are a good idea, if done correctly.

 

As to earlier remarks about high circuit resistance, that WILL NOT cause the switch to overheat, UNLESS the high resistance is right at the switch terminal, i.e. degraded female connector on the blue wire. If, and only if you have a proper, good quality crimp tool, it is worth replacing the terminals on the brown and blue wires. Use of a cheap crimp tool invariably leads to trouble later.

I think the problem is  the female connector for the switch - it looks very run down and there are very obvious signs of burning (blackened female ports) - I have a good quality crimp tool and have ordered a new female switch terminal and male part of the switch so fingers crossed this should solve the problem.


Edited by WimpyMiniMan, 25 February 2016 - 10:01 PM.


#30 Mini Manannán

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Posted 25 February 2016 - 10:46 PM

Oddly enough, while listening to the morning news on the radio I heard a story about Caterpillar (the earth moving equipment company) selling a phone that has a real IR camera in it.  The story commented it was aimed at tradesmen who could benefit from having the device in something they carried with them all the time anyway. 

 

Article on IR smartphone linked here.

 

I read about that too, comes out in June or July and will cost about £500.







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