Go total overkill with a Nordlock washer combo
#16
Posted 20 May 2016 - 04:03 PM
#17
Posted 20 May 2016 - 04:14 PM
Ok, how about one all assembled, the OP could put a lock nut on the rear of this connection but loctite that on? This would have zero effect on the conductivity of the of the connection would it not?
I still doubt that loctite in this situation would actually make the blindest bit of difference to the function unless as I previously stated it gets pasted all over the joint.
It is your car and you can do with it what you want.
I am only telling you what our practice in industry is and sharing what I have also done on low budget race cars.
#19
Posted 20 May 2016 - 09:42 PM
A few things I'd add to that combination;-
1) If I was going to run that way, I'd be inclind to fit a flat washer under the Screw head to reduce 'screwing up' of the face on the lug from the crew itself when tightening, and
2) It may have reduced current carry capacity due to most of the current on;y going through the tips of the star washer from the lug to the palm of the switch, though, granted, some will also go via the screw
3) It could well promote corrosion as it's open to breath and will have DC going though it. If the Crimp is copper and the terminal Brass, then I'm sure it will corrode (and that's been my experience).
What was 'the committee's' thoughts on a Screw / Star Washer / Crimp / Palm assembly?
Just some further thoughts, if you're looking for the most reliable connection, then I'd suggest considering soldering the wire direct to the switch.
Edited by Moke Spider, 20 May 2016 - 09:44 PM.
#20
Posted 20 May 2016 - 09:52 PM
Other option is just to route the wires so any pulling force is tightening only.
Corrosion is not really an issue in my head. Slowly degrading performance is also not really an issue. It is the failure in use that I want to be sure of. Not wanting an electric water pump to stop mid run. Or fuel pump either but not as much of an issue.
#21
Posted 20 May 2016 - 09:56 PM
There is a blue paste / varnish that Airbus use on some connectors that are open to atmospheric conditions. It applied once the connection is made and this prevents any corrosion from occurring.
If you really wanted to then something of that ilk could be used.
#22
Posted 20 May 2016 - 10:25 PM
We use a flat and a spring washer on all electrical connections on our trains. They've been in service for over 30 years using this format and seem to be doing fine.
#23
Posted 28 May 2016 - 03:51 PM
how about a dab of locktite on the exposed screw thread on the back of the connection
which isn't near the electrical path / connection ?
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