184 replies to this topic

[micraminiman]

Been playing with location a wee bit tonight, and I begun by cutting off the lug on the water pump.

I pulled the engine over to the drivers side a bit, and it is indeed starting to look better already. The area around the diff needs some bending and cutting yet before beefing it up again, I split it to bend a better shape into the left hand piece.

 I measured the tower top to under bonnet clearance, and it looks better too, but it still looks high to me. That will be set when its in the car though as I make the mounts to suit. The bars will go round the sump, theres no speed bumps up here, only sheep! lol

 

I faked up the bar locations with some wood to give a better idea, should work out ok. What do you think? The origonal front teardrop mounts will be replaced with my hinges for the front, and the space between will be curved out to give some room for the exhaust manifold and flywheel casing. I can now see in my mind how it will hopefully work out.

 

 I had already read about the sump to tie rod issues, and planned buying a new sump and cutting the corner out and mig in a new piece to clear the rod. I will therefore keep the whole lot over to the drivers side as you say. Thanks for that.

 

That subframe looks the part alright. I really like the round pipe, gives a very factory appearance, and I like that! I will look into getting that stuff in yer link and give it a try.

 

 Thanks guys,

 

Barry

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Edited by micraminiman, 03 August 2016 - 07:38 PM.

[McMini 22]

That all looks about standard square tube subframe. Perfect.
you may have a problem with your jig. Depending on how you have arranged your front and rear pick up points. I had to raise the tower mounts and add a spacer between the jig and the top of the tower to allow me to remove the subframe when it was welded up. You have to lift the subframe up and forward to remove it.

I have made all my engine mounts adjustable with slots fore/aft on one end of the mount and left/right on the other. This allows a wee bit adjustment in all directions.

[micraminiman]

Good point about the jig, but the grinder will get it out in quick fashion if needed, as I made sure the welds were made keich on purpose. Enough to hold it together and do the job, but easy enough to grind off and return me good steel for re-using. Proper tight Highlander here like! lol

Can always make another if needed, Ive got a few spare front subframes kicking about, including a wider Automatic version, not that it would matter for this! lol I might have a go at a second frame if this one works. Things are always better the second time its done.

Edited by micraminiman, 03 August 2016 - 10:44 PM.

[fuzzy-hair-man]

 I measured the tower top to under bonnet clearance, and it looks better too, but it still looks high to me. That will be set when its in the car though as I make the mounts to suit. The bars will go round the sump, theres no speed bumps up here, only sheep! lol

 

If you are clever with the bars they can go round the sump (not loss of ride height) but still offer protection by being low enough they will hit first.

 

Your right I think it does look high, have a look at where the gearshift attaches to the back of the gearbox you should be able to move that between all gears with a bit (although not much) of clearance.

[micraminiman]

Wee question, just removed the crank pulley to turn it down and chipped the edge of the inner pulley. Are the 1.0 pulleys a swap? The one I found looks the same, but there is no rubber damping. This may be better to turn the outer pulley off.... Will it fit? Thanks.

[fuzzy-hair-man]

I remember the micra guys swapping them so it should fit, IMO I'd want the harmonic balancer left on there, but there are plenty of guys running without them.

Edited by fuzzy-hair-man, 05 August 2016 - 12:54 AM.

[micraminiman]

Was thinking the same about the dampening, but can't find one even a new one! Will keep an eye out for one, it's not desperate yet.

[McMini 22]

There is a pulley on ebay for 15 quid delivered. Not sure if 1l is different from 1.3l.
It's worth joining the micra forum for this type of question. Pretty useful for tuning advice too.

[micraminiman]

The front crossmember is beginning to take shape today. A lot of cutting, bending and welding.

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[fuzzy-hair-man]

There is a pulley on ebay for 15 quid delivered. Not sure if 1l is different from 1.3l.
It's worth joining the micra forum for this type of question. Pretty useful for tuning advice too.

They are different but they both fit, some of the micra guys use the 1 litre one as a lighter pulley but I don't think it has the balancer, up to you...

 

There's several really good guys on the micra forum, and it's generally really helpful, even a few around who are doing the mini conversion or have helped with it.

[lawrence]

Two comments, I've had both pulleys fitted to mine, no problem dampened or not so its your choice,
also my origional dampened one had a few chips from the inner part of the groovy bit and I had no issues with belts.

[micraminiman]

Thanks folks. Will go and sign up for the Micra forum. I'm sure it will be helpful.
Will maybe just get the 1l pulley off ebay and machine it down, and keep an eye out for the 1.3l pulley. No rush, plenty other things to do first!

[Mike_Y]

 

 

 

The engine is not as clean as it looks in the photo.  I tried some caustic soda and it took all the muck off but left a chalky deposit of aluminium oxide.  I am just about to buy this

http://www.ebay.co.u...sd=191915375279

 

 

 

 

Hi, did you have any joy with the Aluminium Cleaner?

Edited by Mike_Y, 06 August 2016 - 04:55 PM.

[McMini 22]

Aluminum cleaner hasn't arrived yet but I'll post up some before and after photos on my build diary. Ideally I'd like a product that you paint on and wash off after 20 minutes leaving a perfect bright alloy finish. I think I might be disappointed!
I have read of some folks using brick cleaner. If it contains phosphoric acid it should work but the stuff I'm buying needs watered down so I can make a stronger solution if required.

[McMini 22]

Aluminum cleaner hasn't arrived yet but I'll post up some before and after photos on my build diary. Ideally I'd like a product that you paint on and wash off after 20 minutes leaving a perfect bright alloy finish. I think I might be disappointed!
I have read of some folks using brick cleaner. If it contains phosphoric acid it should work but the stuff I'm buying needs watered down so I can make a stronger solution if required.