64 replies to this topic

[Tonylamb]

So the red and white from the ignition switch is removed from the original solenoid and extended to reach the other terminal on the new starter solenoid? But shouldn’t there be another wire to the other side of the original solenoid? I’ve re drawn the current solenoid and what I think you are suggesting. But it does seem like something is missing to complete the circuit? Sorry to keep asking but I want to get this right obviously.

Cheers

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[Bat]

Hi,

Leave the red white as it is on the solenoid, in the left picture.

In the right picture you've drawn, put a wire on that empty bolt and connect it to the big spade on the starter.

Cheers 

Edited by Bat, 07 October 2018 - 08:53 AM.

[Tonylamb]

Thanks that makes a bit more sense

[Tonylamb]

OK so I’ve wired it all as above. All the wires, the main battery and the brown ones all go to one side of the solenoid. Another main battery wire from the same terminal on the solenoid to the new starter motor. The red and white wire from the ignition stays where it is on the solenoid but a new wire goes from the other big post on the solenoid to the large spade connector on the starter motor?

NOT A SQUEEK when you turn the ignition. All the wires from the battery and the brown ones are live all the time which is correct.

When you turn the ignition key to the starter part should the red and wire to the solenoid be live. I assume it should because that throws the low voltage part of the solenoid connecting the high voltage starter power to the motor.

The other question is that I have two black and white wires. One I assume goes to one side of the coil and the other to the wire that comes out of the distributor. I don’t need the yellow and pink wires?

[nicklouse]

yes red white should go live on the start position. to check the solenoid spark a wire from the spade to the live on the solenoid that should trigger the solenoid and the starter. it is still 12V 

 

as to your other question there are wiring diagrams here http://www.theminifo...agrams-redrawn/

 

pink white is the ballast live feed but that needs changing to a live feed or you are not charging the coil. the coil.

 

WY depends on the wiring year.

WB again depends on year but yes one goes to the dizzy.

[Tonylamb]

So I’ve taken the ignition cowel off and there doesn’t seem to be any power to the red and white wire at the back of the ignition switch. If I jump across the red and white terminal from the original solenoid to the power the engine turns over so that’s one thing solved. I’m thinking I may have a dodgy ignition switch. The ignition light comes on with the switch in position 2. How can I test what else should be live with switch in position 2. Presumably the positive side of the coil and the distributor.

One other thing that seems to have gone a bit tits is the that the bottom fuse in the fuse box doesn’t seem to have any power where it did before. One fuse has power all the time, one has power in position one and one with power in position 2. But one doesn’t seem to have power at all. Something loose somewhere it seems.

I’m thinking that I wont bother changing the switch if it all works apart from the starter because i’ll Just put a starter button in the dash. Always fancied one anyway. My first mini had one on the floor. I still get the steering lock and the key for security.

[Tonylamb]

I've solved problem two, I was being stupid.  happens a lot.

 

I've purchased a starter button which I've got working and the engine turns over nicely.

 

I'm just trying to work out what should be live when the ignition is in the ON position.  Presumably power to the distributor and the positive side of the coil?  I don't seem to have any power.  I'm wondering if the ignition switch is knackered completely although in position 2 the red ignition light comes on?

 

Any directions to a simple ignition switch, coil, distributor wiring diagram?

[nicklouse]

coil live when red light comes on. so second (run position) first is just aux power like radio.

[Tonylamb]

All seems to be working as I started engine today. I still have an unsolved bit of wiring. The yellow and pink ones for the ignition I'm leaving disconnected. I have a black and black and white wire spare The only thing not connected is the low fluid warning light connections on the brake fluid reservoir?

[Tonylamb]

exciting to drive the car out of the garage this morning. Starts fine but the red ignition light doesn't go out and the battery quickly went flat. I wonder when I rewired the starter system to use a starter button rather than the ignition switch if I have missed something out. once I've recharged the battery I'll re start the car and see if I'm getting any charge across the battery. I suspect not. any thoughts appreciated.

[cal844]

exciting to drive the car out of the garage this morning. Starts fine but the red ignition light doesn't go out and the battery quickly went flat. I wonder when I rewired the starter system to use a starter button rather than the ignition switch if I have missed something out. once I've recharged the battery I'll re start the car and see if I'm getting any charge across the battery. I suspect not. any thoughts appreciated.

Try earth the small wire at the alternator plug it should go out

[Tonylamb]

There are two small wires at the alternator
One is brown and the other yellow and brown.
I'm wondering if I've wired something wrong or forgotten a wire when I switched from the key starter to the push button starter? The battery is on charge but where should I check???
.

[Tonylamb]

There are three wires at the alternator plug, large Brown, small brown, small brown and yellow. Which one do i earth?

I wonder when I set up the starter switch and used the old solenoid as a relay if i have wired something wrong?

[Tonylamb]

So I earned the brown and yellow indicator wire and the red light stayed on?

[Spider]

Check the plain Brown Wire is connected clean to the Battery side of the Solenoid and that when the car isn't running, it has 12Volts on it.