34 replies to this topic

[timmy850]

Exactly as retroman has mentioned above

[nicklouse]

And a sump guard should not be fitted unless the sub-frame is fully solid mounted.

uless it is just some shiny tat to "bling" up the mini and not actually something to actually do something.

[Cooperman]

Personally I'm not into shiny tat or 'bling'. My sump guards are there to guard the sump from bumps and rocks. Mine is an all-welded-aluminium prototype which was produced for a major supplier, but deemed too expensive for a production item. I got it quite a while back for a very low price and it has performed very well, although it has a lot of scratches and gouges on the bottom of it. It is held on with 8 3/8" UNF bolts and spreader plates on the sub-frame. I use a 13-row oil cooler as well.

[r3k1355]

Yes it is - in the "Approved Accessories" brochure from '95

 

Edit - oops beaten to it!

 

Does that make it not genuine Rover though?  

More a third-party accessory you could order via the Rover dealer?

 

Kinda like the John Cooper performance packs?

[whistler]

Personally I'm not into shiny tat or 'bling'. My sump guards are there to guard the sump from bumps and rocks. Mine is an all-welded-aluminium prototype which was produced for a major supplier, but deemed too expensive for a production item. I got it quite a while back for a very low price and it has performed very well, although it has a lot of scratches and gouges on the bottom of it. It is held on with 8 3/8" UNF bolts and spreader plates on the sub-frame. I use a 13-row oil cooler as well.

I bet it goes full length down the the gearchange mount as well.
BMC Special Tuning supplied the only official sumpguard as far as I remember. Made from Duralloy I think, very thick, very strong and very very expensive.
We all used copies, made from sheet steel. Very heavy but saved the sump. Needed a lump of thick foam between it and the sump to reduce rock bounce damage. Oil cooler needed with one of those fitted.

[Cooperman]

Mine is virtually an all-alloy replica of the original all-steel Scottish guard. It is made from 8 mm thick plate and it is all alloy with no steel at all. I can lift it with one finger but you would be amazed at the hammering it has taken in over 30 rallies. It is slightly dented and very scored, but is still a great bit of serious kit.

[buznout]

In Japan they offered a sump guard that most of the Japanese cars seem to have. Pretty light so not sure it would do much but provide a bit of gutter protection.... Don't have a picture on me at the moment but will post if you want..

[nicklouse]

Mine is virtually an all-alloy replica of the original all-steel Scottish guard. It is made from 8 mm thick plate and it is all alloy with no steel at all. I can lift it with one finger but you would be amazed at the hammering it has taken in over 30 rallies. It is slightly dented and very scored, but is still a great bit of serious kit.

my old one was a Dural "Scottish" long. going back past/to the shifter housing area.

[CityEPete]

Yes it is - in the "Approved Accessories" brochure from '95
 
Edit - oops beaten to it!

 
Does that make it not genuine Rover though?  
More a third-party accessory you could order via the Rover dealer?
 
Kinda like the John Cooper performance packs?

Most of the car was made by little workshops spread around the Midlands anyway!

[Screwdriver]

In my mind, if it's offered on the brochure, it's genuine. The real challenge I will have is fitting one.

[nicklouse]

In my mind, if it's offered on the brochure, it's genuine. The real challenge I will have is fitting one.

not a challenge just drill some holes.

[Cooperman]

I fitted one to a rally car I was just completing a long time ago. I jacked it up, drilled the 8 holes, or so I thought, and went to fit the guard. 

It was then I realised one of the holes was still just a 1/4" pilot hole, not a 3/8" clearance. I grabbed my drill, didn't put my goggles back on and got a piece of steel in my eye.

2 hours later I'm in the Lister Hospital in Hitchin where a young doctor used a needle to get the piece out! A singularly unpleasant thing to have happen.

the good news was that the sump guard fitted fine  .

When fitting a sump guard it is a good idea to weld trapped nuts at the rear mounting and trapped bolts in the front edge. That way it is easy to re-fit the guard quickly for maintenance, etc. Always use 3/8" bolts or bigger. The rear mounting points which are adjacent to the lower arm mountings can be reinforced with 1/8" or 3 mm steel plates welded to the frame.

[Jfcrouch72]

sorry...resurrecting am earlier thread again.
after reading all of the thread it seems general consensus is not to get a square type guard, but more of a skid type one.

is the minispares scottish type any good?

http://minispares.co.../C-AJJ3320.aspx

Also would anyone happen to have the measurements of this one...I.e distance from front mounting holes back to where the side mounting holes would be?

The reason for asking is that I currently have an older minispares sumpguard, but it's the Monte Carlo one (square front).

http://minispares.co.../C-AJJ3321.aspx

It 'looks' like there might be a chance that i can use the existing holes....but not sure.

[whistler]

You need both parts of the sumpguard you linked to otherwise your gearchange is unprotected.

[frenzy382]

Hi...thanks...but was wondering whether the mounting holes on the below 2 sumpguards are the same distance away from the front mounting holes.

 

I've attached 2 photos to best explain.

 

Cheers

 

 

Attached Files

•  sg1.jpg   16.3K   0 downloads
•  sg2.jpg   20.16K   0 downloads