Holy thread revival Batman!
I've never put meths in a brake system and I cant see the need, if its done right it won't leak and if it does leak then fix it and test again.
Seems like a lot of hassle to me.
Posted 25 April 2024 - 08:41 PM
Holy thread revival Batman!
I've never put meths in a brake system and I cant see the need, if its done right it won't leak and if it does leak then fix it and test again.
Seems like a lot of hassle to me.
Posted 26 April 2024 - 05:26 AM
Nipped up, then checked for leaks and then nipped up further if needed.
They need to be reasonably tight as you're effectively deforming the end of the flare to create the seal. Light ipe of copper slip on the thread section should make them easy enough to undo later.
Treat yourself to a paint pen - much better than tippex.
This is about what I do too, though I do generally find, with new flares some do need that extra nip the first time they are done up.
I will though express some concern about using any marker or paint types pens or the like for fear of introducing a contaminate or even a paint flake.
If I've re-piped a car, I bleed it through first with metho to check for leaks and also to flush the system, the metho is 100% compatible with all brake components and won't damage paintwork it there is a leak, then once happy with that, drain off, flush and fill with Brake fluid.
So methylated spirits into the reservoir and bleed with something like an EZ bleed kit and test for leaks then flush until everything is flushed out. Then brake fluid?
Yes, flushing out the metho with Brake Fluid, however, with the minor work you've done and being it's all down the rear end, I don't think I'd worry about running metho through the system, just bleed and flush with brake fluid.
Posted 26 April 2024 - 08:28 AM
Holy thread revival Batman!
Posted 26 April 2024 - 08:32 AM
Holy thread revival Batman!
I've never put meths in a brake system and I cant see the need, if its done right it won't leak and if it does leak then fix it and test again.
Seems like a lot of hassle to me.
I don't know.. it sounded like a good idea to me, it's cheap, it won't do any harm, if it leaks it won't be a horrible gloopy mess to clean up, it drains easily I imagine..
I read it and thought actually that sounds like a plan for when I'm getting it all connected up. although I do have the added advantage of already having a bottle of meths sitting on the shelf already
Posted 26 April 2024 - 09:23 AM
I don't know.. it sounded like a good idea to me, it's cheap, it won't do any harm, if it leaks it won't be a horrible gloopy mess to clean up, it drains easily I imagine..
I've done it on many builds, not all. My friends who haven't previously made brake lines and fitted them up, I always suggest this to them especially with the Mokes. The Brake Pipe to the rear runs through the side boxes and there's 2 joiner pieces in there. If these leak, they make a quick mess of fresh paint. Even on a Mini, there's a few joints in the engine bay, a very difficult and time consuming place to re-paint.
IMO, for the 'hassle' and added time it takes, well worthwhile. Just be sure to flush it all out.
Posted 26 April 2024 - 10:10 AM
Posted 26 April 2024 - 10:43 AM
,,,,,, I use silicone brake fluid and find it brilliant,,,,,,.
I have it in one car but not entirely sold on it but not saying it bad or 'the sky will fall in' like some go on with over it.
I forget now which brand it was (came through a Harley shop a very long time ago). Which one are you using ?
Posted 26 April 2024 - 04:44 PM
So methylated spirits into the reservoir and bleed with something like an EZ bleed kit and test for leaks then flush until everything is flushed out. Then brake fluid?
Nipped up, then checked for leaks and then nipped up further if needed.
They need to be reasonably tight as you're effectively deforming the end of the flare to create the seal. Light ipe of copper slip on the thread section should make them easy enough to undo later.
Treat yourself to a paint pen - much better than tippex.
This is about what I do too, though I do generally find, with new flares some do need that extra nip the first time they are done up.
I will though express some concern about using any marker or paint types pens or the like for fear of introducing a contaminate or even a paint flake.
If I've re-piped a car, I bleed it through first with metho to check for leaks and also to flush the system, the metho is 100% compatible with all brake components and won't damage paintwork it there is a leak, then once happy with that, drain off, flush and fill with Brake fluid.
Yes, flushing out the metho with Brake Fluid, however, with the minor work you've done and being it's all down the rear end, I don't think I'd worry about running metho through the system, just bleed and flush with brake fluid.
Posted 27 April 2024 - 02:49 AM
Posted 27 April 2024 - 09:12 AM
Posted 27 April 2024 - 09:26 AM
Wikipedia: "Hundreds of additives and denaturing methods have been used. Common additives include isopropyl alcohol, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, and methyl isobutyl ketone."
Posted 27 April 2024 - 10:00 AM
Is ours still usable in the same way ?
It is suggested in the UK and Australian factory Workshop Manuals, so I would say yes.
Posted 27 April 2024 - 10:09 AM
cool just double checking cheers
Posted 21 June 2024 - 06:49 PM
Posted 21 June 2024 - 07:17 PM
Glad you found the leak without it ruining any paint.
You should be able to get a full pedal with Metho in the system, though, I never bother, I just get enough of a pedal to be able to get some pressure in the system to check for leaks under pressure. Just don't drive with it in there and be sure to drain the system as much as you can and flush through with brake fluid to get it all out. I lower the level in the reservoir but don't let it run dry, then add the brake fluid.
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