134 replies to this topic

[70K1100]

Thank you KTS. That picture helps a lot.

[70K1100]

Managed to bend up the brake lines and fuel lines this afternoon. I don’t know if I did it correctly, but I taped the new line to the old line about 6 inches and bent it as I went. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll fit them up tomorrow.

[stuart bowes]

when I did mine the main issue I had was the tighter bends up and over the rear subframe, it's real easy to kink the pipe if you're not careful (I did, and lucky had enough to start again)

 

the bends up front are less severe and to some extent can be done by hand (or get it close with the tool and just tweak the final position by hand)

 

I didn't have the benefit of the old one to copy as it was cut up for quick removal (and was really grotty anyway) doing it directly on the car probably made it a bit more fiddly

Edited by stuart bowes, 28 April 2025 - 09:16 AM.

[Steam]

The pipe over here is steel bundy so is less likely to kink.

[68Deluxe]

I've got a bending tool like this:

Pro Hand Held Brake Line Pipe Tube Bender Pliers Rolling 3/16 1/4 5/16 3/8 | eBay

 

It's only a cheapie but you can get really nice tight bends with it. 

If you are gentle you can just bend the pipe around a piece of pipe, or an impact socket. 

[70K1100]

I bought a pipe bender for the more precise bends. For the pipe around the front subframe I heard of using a wire coat hanger as a template. Has anyone else used that technique?

[68Deluxe]

No reason it won't work. 

[70K1100]

After replacing the floors and had the shell painted, I realised that the new floors didn’t have the tabs to lock the pipes and battery cable to the floor, so I’ll p clip them the the floor.

With fitting the rear subframe, is it easier to install the radius arms before or after installing the subframe?

Thanks.

[KTS]

appreciate i'm not answering the question asked, but it's certainly easier to fit the rear subframe without the radius arms attached

[stuart bowes]

I was planning to fit my frame then build it up in-situ, getting to that point quite soon now actually so interested to read what others say

 

(Not aware of any part that can't be fitted afterwards .. ?)

Edited by stuart bowes, 29 April 2025 - 09:03 AM.

[70K1100]

I’ve just been watch YouTube videos on fitting the rear subframe and a couple of them showed a beak bias valve. If im running all wheel drum with 1” front wheel cylinders, do I need to use a bias valve?

[70K1100]

Semi successful day on the mini today. I managed to fit some of the bolts to fit the rear subframe to the car. The back passenger side is about 1/4 hole out. So after that I fitted the steering rack and assembled the pedal assembly.

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[70K1100]

Finally a day to work on the mini. I managed to put in the new rubber cones and hilos, the passenger side upper arm without much hassle. Driver side not so much. What a pain in the ass that was. But managed to get it in. Then managed single handed wrestle the subframe into the car. One step closer to getting it on its wheels. 

 

 

Then fitted a rear shock, just because I found them in the corner. 

 

 

[70K1100]

Successful day today. I managed to fit both front drum assemblies to the mini. Only mishap was not realising that the holes in the lower arms were tapered for the ball joints. I also managed to fit the rear Hilo and shock on the driver’s side. Fairly successful day. 

 

Only question I have is, is there a specific orientation for the handbrake quadrant?  There is a full rounded end and a pointed end. Which way to they get fitted?

[70K1100]

A bit has happened since my last post. I was having trouble getting my head around the update to Imgur.

Well I have picked up my rebuilt gearbox with new 3.1 gearing.

 

 

As well as installing most of the car builders sound deadening into the shell. Only the more intricate front bulkhead to go.