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My New (Old) Mini Keeps Cutting Out


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#16 Marc13

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 08:50 AM

Does you're rev counted die or misbehave?probably ignition related.Tach OK and slowly dies?probably fuel.No guarantees mind.A Mini is useful in improving your analytical mind.The ignition components are cheap enough to carry with you as diagnostic tools.Have fun.Steve..

I think the rev counter died - but my eyes were more interested in finding a suitable place to stop as I was on a busy section of the A5. It was like the power was instantly cut...revs just went



#17 Marc13

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 08:54 AM

Fuel evaporation on its way/in the carb due to the engine heat?

How would you check this out? How do you solve it?

It ran well for 50 mins (no issue) - thats why I thought heat might have sonething to do with it



#18 Marc13

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 08:57 AM

 

Describe better how it stops - suddenly dies as though the key had been turned off, or won't run at high revs/load but is OK with less throttle for a while, gradually getting worse until it stops?

Did you stop for 10 minutes each time or were the subsequent stops shorter?

Graeme - just stopped like the key had been turned off. On one occasion I kept my foot down and nothing at all. On another occasion i tried dropping it in to neutral and then popping it into 3rd....nothing at all. Also tried neutral and pressing accelerator - but no revs at all.

Couldn't be accurate, but I would say it was approx 10 min stop each time. Maybe the last stop was a little bit less.

Nipped to the shop last night - no trouble.......but that is 5 mins each way.

 

Just a bit more on this one....I would say when it happend - at the time the load/revs didnt change as I was driving at 50mph on an A road, so had been steadily cruising at the same revs for some time.



#19 Marc13

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 09:02 AM

That sounded like mine when the condenser packed up so try that it's a simple fix.

I think its def worth a try, as you say its a simple fix (whether it works or not).

 

The downside to this being an 'unknown' issue and one that only happens after been driving for some time, is that it leaves you thinking I'm not risking a long drive again as I'll likely be stranded a long way from home. If it happened on short drives, it wouldn't be an issue, as getting home would be easy and could try different fixes. With this the only way to see if a 'fix' has worked is to go on a long drive....



#20 Marc13

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 09:05 AM

As a test, rig a new condenser from the negative terminal of the coil to earth and drive the car.  If all Ok then you can change the one inside the distributor.  I run my two rally cars with no internal condenser and an external one rigged to each of the two coils that I have, one is a quick changeover spare.

For the test with the new condenser fixed to the coil, would you leave the existing condenser in place, or remove it for the test?



#21 MiniBGT

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 09:07 AM

You can leave the old one in place.  At the moment my MGB is running with a good internal one and an external one.



#22 mini13

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 09:23 AM

If it is an electronic ignition, I have had the black module on the side (65d dizzy) give similar issues, especially on hot days in traffic.



#23 RustyAutoCityE

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 12:00 PM


Fuel evaporation on its way/in the carb due to the engine heat?

How would you check this out? How do you solve it?
It ran well for 50 mins (no issue) - thats why I thought heat might have sonething to do with it

Since you have described it like turning the key off, I don't think it is evaporation, would act more like it is starving for fuel I think.

Have a look at where the fuel lines run and make sure there is clearance from anything that gets hot.

#24 sonscar

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 12:49 PM

If you try the external condenser I would disconnect the internal one as if it goes short circuit it will kill it.Steve..

#25 Marc13

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Posted 24 September 2020 - 03:28 PM

ok update on the cutting out. Went for short drive today. 10 mins to destination...no problem. Parked up for 30 mins, Got back in the car and on the drive back home the car was repeatedly cutting out, right from the off almost. Losing all power instantly. The first time I coasted to a stop, and it started back up straight away on turning the key. Less than a minute later, cut out again....this time I popped it down in to 3rd gear which had the effect of jump starting it, and it fired back up no problem. Did this a couple more time - and I also got it revving again just by dipping the clutch on one occasion. On another occasion it woulnt strat again by going in to third, still no power, I was losing speed now, so popped it in to 2nd a few seconds later and it strated up again.

 

Considering the above and the short journey - I'm now not sure it has anything to do with getting hot.

 

Any more thoughts and comments would be really appreciated. I plan to have a good look over it at the weekend.



#26 Marc13

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Posted 26 September 2020 - 02:57 PM

As a test, rig a new condenser from the negative terminal of the coil to earth and drive the car.  If all Ok then you can change the one inside the distributor.  I run my two rally cars with no internal condenser and an external one rigged to each of the two coils that I have, one is a quick changeover spare.

Both of the negative terminals already have something connected to them. There is no free terminal to connect a condenser??



#27 weef

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Posted 26 September 2020 - 03:43 PM

Before you start on random operations you have to decide why the engine will not start. Compression, fuel and spark are needed . Find out which one is missing when the engine cuts out and concentrate your efforts in the right area.



#28 Ethel

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Posted 26 September 2020 - 03:51 PM

Replied to your mechanic finding topic, just ignore that one.

 

I agree an ignition fault sounds most likely. They can be a bugger to track down, but should be very cheap to fix.

 

Start with a good look over...

 

Clean the terminals on the coil to be sure they are tight & not shorting.

 

Inspect the wiring for fraying, kinking, broken insulation etc. There only needs to be a +ve supply to the coil and a wire going from -ve to the distributor. If the dizzy has more wiring it may indicate it's had electronic ignition fitted.

 

If you do have a rev counter it'll be an extra wire on the coil -ve, try removing it when the fault occurs and see if it makes a difference.

 

You could also rig up a direct 12v supply from the solenoid terminal where the brown wires are attached  to eliminate possible faults in the ignition switch & wiring: BUT don't leave it connected when you're not trying to run the engine!

 

Clean & mark all the plug leads (so you know which is for which cylinder), unclip the metal spring clips to release the distributor cap. Clean the cap thoroughly and pay particular attention to the carbon brush under the middle terminal. It should be spring loaded if you push. The brush runs on top of the rotor arm, so look for signs that they've been in good contact & not arcing - a regular dark circle "pencilled in" on the rotor and no pitting. You could give the brush a gentle pull to stretch its spring ever so slightly.

 

You'll need some very basic tools to go much further, there are some good videos on Youtube that'll explain how to set & change ignition points - I'd recommend University Motors

 

 

...do check the carb damper (black screw cap in the middle of its dashpot) isn't loose though. That can cause similar issues and is very quick to eliminate.



#29 Ethel

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Posted 26 September 2020 - 04:04 PM

This looks like a thorough explanation - even if it's got 2 extra cylinders and the electrical connections might be different if yours is a 45D & not a 25D.

 



#30 Marc13

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Posted 26 September 2020 - 04:30 PM

Replied to your mechanic finding topic, just ignore that one.

 

I agree an ignition fault sounds most likely. They can be a bugger to track down, but should be very cheap to fix.

 

Start with a good look over...

 

Clean the terminals on the coil to be sure they are tight & not shorting.

 

Inspect the wiring for fraying, kinking, broken insulation etc. There only needs to be a +ve supply to the coil and a wire going from -ve to the distributor. If the dizzy has more wiring it may indicate it's had electronic ignition fitted.

 

If you do have a rev counter it'll be an extra wire on the coil -ve, try removing it when the fault occurs and see if it makes a difference.

 

You could also rig up a direct 12v supply from the solenoid terminal where the brown wires are attached  to eliminate possible faults in the ignition switch & wiring: BUT don't leave it connected when you're not trying to run the engine!

 

Clean & mark all the plug leads (so you know which is for which cylinder), unclip the metal spring clips to release the distributor cap. Clean the cap thoroughly and pay particular attention to the carbon brush under the middle terminal. It should be spring loaded if you push. The brush runs on top of the rotor arm, so look for signs that they've been in good contact & not arcing - a regular dark circle "pencilled in" on the rotor and no pitting. You could give the brush a gentle pull to stretch its spring ever so slightly.

 

You'll need some very basic tools to go much further, there are some good videos on Youtube that'll explain how to set & change ignition points - I'd recommend University Motors

 

 

...do check the carb damper (black screw cap in the middle of its dashpot) isn't loose though. That can cause similar issues and is very quick to eliminate.

Thanks for the above, I'll see how easy it is for complete novice and get stuck in tomorrow.

Just to explain - its not a question of it not starting - its starts fine. It cuts out generally when up to speed.

There is a rev counter, so that will explain the other connection on the coil -ve. Any idea what could be on the other +ve(both terminals are used there also)?

If the coil only needs






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