45 replies to this topic

[GraemeC]

The later ones still have the hex socket in the top and the circlip.

 

MS instructions are to trim this and, if needed, lose the locknut:

If you need the car even lower,dispence with the locking nut which was never on the originals and check length or shorten main adjuster bolt and/or remove circlip.

[croc7]

Had the Hi Lo(s) trimmed to an overall height of 2", leaving about .75" of thread engagement.  Also shortened the adjustment bolt by .75" to avoid fouling the plate of the cone.  Should have them installed by next week and hopefully resolve this issue.  Will post the results.

[mattrsa]

The later ones still have the hex socket in the top and the circlip.

 

MS instructions are to trim this and, if needed, lose the locknut:

If you need the car even lower,dispence with the locking nut which was never on the originals and check length or shorten main adjuster bolt and/or remove circlip.

 

Hi all 

 

This morning I got my red spot cones and hi lows out the box. I wound down the hilo to its lowest setting and it did not seem to reach/catch the metal plate in on the cone. Am I missing something here. I can clearly see there is about 5-10 mm of distance between the top of the thread and the cones plate.

[GraemeC]

Yes, you’re missing the weight of the car compressing the red spot cone!

Edited by GraemeC, 24 January 2021 - 08:28 PM.

[OzOAP]

Hi all

This morning I got my red spot cones and hi lows out the box. I wound down the hilo to its lowest setting and it did not seem to reach/catch the metal plate in on the cone. Am I missing something here. I can clearly see there is about 5-10 mm of distance between the top of the thread and the cones plate.

Is that with them not fitted to car?

[imack]

Yes, you’re missing the weight of the car compressing there’d spot cone!

Fitting and compressing the cone won't alter the distance between the top of the hilo bolt and the cupped plate in the cone with the thread in it. That cupped plate is already seated on the hilo flange. Installed or not it makes no difference.
I thought it was only the old style hilo's that need the top machined off the bolt.

Edited by imack, 24 January 2021 - 08:34 PM.

[mattrsa]

 

Yes, you’re missing the weight of the car compressing there’d spot cone!

Fitting and compressing the cone won't alter the distance between the top of the hilo bolt and the cupped plate in the cone with the thread in it. That cupped plate is already seated on the hilo flange. Installed or not it makes no difference.
I thought it was only the old style hilo's that need the top machined off the bolt.

 

 

this was my thought, 

The metal cupped plate surely will not compress once under weight. 

[GraemeC]

Actually yes, fair point!

[croc7]

 

The later ones still have the hex socket in the top and the circlip.

 

MS instructions are to trim this and, if needed, lose the locknut:

If you need the car even lower,dispence with the locking nut which was never on the originals and check length or shorten main adjuster bolt and/or remove circlip.

 

Hi all 

 

This morning I got my red spot cones and hi lows out the box. I wound down the hilo to its lowest setting and it did not seem to reach/catch the metal plate in on the cone. Am I missing something here. I can clearly see there is about 5-10 mm of distance between the top of the thread and the cones plate.

 

Makes we wonder if some HiLo's (or variants) are supplied with different length adjustment bolts or that the overall height is different from one manufacturer to another.  With my set, locknut in place against the head of the bolt, when turned in completely, the bolt extended .3"-.4" beyond the rim of the HiLo.

[imack]

The bolt on my old school ripspeed hilos protrudes about 3/4" above the spring seat. I had to turn about 3mm from the top of the bolt to clear red spot centre plate at minimum ride height.

Attached Files

•  20210125_214531_resized.jpg   21.71K   1 downloads

[croc7]

The bolt on my old school ripspeed hilos protrudes about 3/4" above the spring seat. I had to turn about 3mm from the top of the bolt to clear red spot centre plate at minimum ride height.

Looks very familiar.

[steeley]

Mine from minispares fitted straight in adjusting with a 32 and 27mm spanner apart from one
which for some reason has a bigger nut which is about 34mm?

[croc7]

Installed the shortened hi-lo’s (.3”) and the result wasn’t what I expected. Changed the height as measured at the sill by 5/8” (RF) and 3/8” (LF). I thought it would be more with the ratio of change in the front to be 3:1. I must be missing something here. Anyway, I am considering installing oversized rebound buffers to insure the cones remain in place should I lower the front end to a height of 81/2” at the front as measured at the sill. Will this be counterproductive?

[steeley]

Yes, the Rear Arm Ratio is 5:1

However, the Fronts are in fact 4.45:1, call it 4.5:1. It seems it was Clive Tricky back in the early 60's who suggested it was 3:1 and that's been carried forward ever since.

[GraemeC]

Doesn't sound a million miles off, assuming the rear hasn't been altered between the measurements. The drop at the sill won't be as big as the calculated drop at the hub centre.

 

8.5" at the sill sounds very low - you may need lowered type shock brackets to prevent the shock bottoming out on full bump.