31 replies to this topic

[Maccmike8]

I’ve used a cheap Chinese Wi-Fi endoscope with a 5mm camera purchased off eBay which you can view and record on your phone at under £20 they are a bargain.

 

You got a link to one youve had good dealings with?

[evad1980]

Ok… mixed reviews…

To be honest rebuilding the block is something that I don’t really have time to do. The plan is to buy it and work on it to get it running probably keep it for a bit then maybe (only maybe) flog it. If I find something nasty I’ll pass it on to someone who has time to do it.

Depending on how bad it is, I think I’ll take a chance to get it running initially. If I find anything untoward when I do have it, then of course I’ll delve further and won’t try to start it.

My thinking is that whoever rebuilt it must have had an idea of what they were doing, I know this isn’t always the case but it’s a toss up between dismantling and inspecting or trying to start it after a bit of tlc.

[mab01uk]

I agree, get it running using the checks and procedures already mentioned to build oil pressure, etc and then go from there. Stripping an engine to 'check over' always results in far more time and expense than originally planned, as you will always find borderline issues with components and bearings, etc that would have been good and of no concern for thousands more miles....but because you have taken the engine apart you will now feel should be replaced just in case.....the end result is nearly always a complete expensive rebuild and not a simple inspection and reassembly job!

Edited by mab01uk, 19 January 2022 - 08:15 AM.

[gazza82]

if it is seized use brake fluid in the bored to seep down.

I put diesel in my engine bores in October and no 3 still has a generous puddle of it in there!!

I think it's definitely seized :)

I will strip it properly one day and see what it looks like from the inside. (Oh this engine sat for over 40 years and it looks like the head gasket failed at some time during this stage of "rest. Probably between bores 3 & 4!)

 
 
might not be siezed , it maybe something bent ! defo strip it imho first. brake fluid down the bores is really thin and attacks at the rust, i dont know if diesel will be as active?
 
 
good luck !

Won't be bent .. I drove it into the garage where it sat from 1975/6 ... but as I wasn't expected to leaveit there until 2019, may not have properly drained coolant! Oil had water in it when drained too ...

[Chris1275gt]

I’ve used a cheap Chinese Wi-Fi endoscope with a 5mm camera purchased off eBay which you can view and record on your phone at under £20 they are a bargain.

 
You got a link to one youve had good dealings with?

It’s this one but I don’t think he’s got them listed at the moment. If you are anywhere near Reading Berks you could borrow the one I have.

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[Spherix]

You could also consider pulling the drive shafts and open the diff up while the engine is in the car (although taking it out is minimum effort after that..). This will allow you to have a better peak at the gearbox' internals.

[timmy850]

I think the easiest thing to remove to have a good look would be the speedo drive cover. It’s only one paper gasket to replace and no shims or measuring required

I bought an engine that’d been rebuilt and been sitting. The oil had turned to sludge and blocked the oil pickup, it ran out of oil pressure, wrote off the crank, cam, bearings, oil pump, head. That was an expensive lesson

[evad1980]

Hi guys.. sorry not been on in a while… busy with work..

Anyway, picked up the mini yesterday and had a look at it today. Good news is engine isn’t seized, pulled all plugs and took the rocker cover off, stuck it in gear and gently rocked the car back and forth. You could see all valves move and the crank turning as the car rocked. Great stuff!

However, I took a peek inside the thermostat housing and could see some cavitation… so I thought I’d pop off the housing for a closer look. I managed to sheer one of the bolts and the other two came out eventually with a bit of difficulty !!

Inside the head looked a bit grubby, a little flakey and rusty looking but no congealed crap which is good. What would you guys suggest putting in there to clean it out?

[cal844]

Calcium, lime, rust remover. Ideally use the CLR for a week

[evad1980]

Yeah I saw someone else mention that stuff on another site. When you say for a week, do you mean pour it in and sit for a week.. and then drain? I.e. not starting it… not that I can anyway!

The CLR stuff I’ve found looks like household stuff.. seen some in screwfix..

[cal844]

Yeah I saw someone else mention that stuff on another site. When you say for a week, do you mean pour it in and sit for a week.. and then drain? I.e. not starting it… not that I can anyway!

The CLR stuff I’ve found looks like household stuff.. seen some in screwfix..

The one in screwfix is the stuff you need. Ideally you'd run it for a week but someone may have a solution

[evad1980]

https://www.screwfix...over-1ltr/8679f

This stuff, to be sure? ☝️

[cal844]

That's the stuff

[evad1980]

Ok cheers 👍

[Gaz66]

If its turning over why not get it started then run the CLR up to temp.
If the engine is a dog it will need rebuilding anyway so worth go in my book.