360 replies to this topic

[elliot341]

I would say if you try to put a vertical or horizontal butt weld across the quarter panel it will distort the panel a lot and lead to a lot of hassle and filler. If youve got a heritage quarter you should be laughing. I fit magnum quarters which werent too bad but needed fettling, you should be fine putting the whole panel on. Will be a better end result. Also I can guarrantee (especially with how much other rust your shell has) that behind the panel there will be rust between the frames and the quarter which you cant see atm.

[stuart bowes]

Yeah I was thinking about it last night while I was out watching the new top gun (amazing by the way) and agreed 100% panel warping would be a total pain in the arse, it's worth the effort of taking apart at the seams

 

the rust on this one looks a lot worse than it is, there is a lot of surface issues but only bad in certain places where obviously water has collected (goes without saying really) but then again there's a lot of it still nigh on perfect like the the floor (excluding small bits of the inner sills), the roof guttering, the scuttle. wings, bulkhead totally solid both sides, passenger A panel only just starting to bubble...  far as I know none of it has been replaced, just pot luck I suppose.  I've done the most awkward bit first I think with the drivers side step and sill

 

In cutting away the back part of the outer sill, and the rear quarter, I have found a bit of corrosion around the subframe mount so that definitely needs looking at / strengthening plate adding just for peace of mind but at least that's on the inside so I can whack on a nice thick chunk of weld and not have to worry too much about it looking pretty

Edited by stuart bowes, 08 June 2022 - 10:11 AM.

[stuart bowes]

removed fully:

 

 

rust underneath the sides / top / arch was minimal and surface only, after this pic I wire brushed and kurusted everything that isn't being welded or replaced

Edited by stuart bowes, 08 June 2022 - 06:32 PM.

[Richard_]

Thanks for posting this. Nice work.

Are you planning to replace the front wings?  Mine are in similar nick.

[stuart bowes]

fingers crossed I think we'll get away with leaving the front wings alone, and seeing as the scuttle / bulkhead / inner wings are all ok (inner wings maybe needing a few small patches) there's no need to take them off .. if there was to be honest I'd probably put new ones back on as it'd be silly not to I suppose

 

to be assessed for sure later on when I get to the front end and strip off the paint but that's my best guess for now.  possibly a new front valance.. 

 

started at drivers side step and now working around the back of the car, boot floor while rear quarter is off. then left side of boot and so on

Edited by stuart bowes, 09 June 2022 - 07:16 PM.

[elliot341]

I think as frustrating as it would be, if I were you I would replace the front wings and front panel. You will struggle to eliminate the rust below the head light and in the seam between the wing and front panel. It would be very annoying to spend a lot of time tidying up the front end for rust to bleed through 6 months after repairs/paint touch ups. Also i dont believe that the front valance is available as a separate panel, just as a whole panel as part of the front panel. 

[stuart bowes]

I didn't realise that re: front valance, that may affect the decision certainly

 

re rust though it depends if I can grind back to good metal underneath or not I suppose, a lot of the brown stuff from the first set of pictures is coming off easily with a bit of simple wire brushing or light sanding.. 

 

but yes if it's gone through you may well be right... I don't mind the cost (https://www.ebay.co....tRoCVNkQAvD_BwE ?) or the welding involved, it's more the effort and painstaking care involved in making sure it's all straight again

 

we may even consider converting it to flip front or looking into 1 piece composite options for easier access.  that's all way into the future yet though lol one bit at a time

Edited by stuart bowes, 10 June 2022 - 10:43 AM.

[stuart bowes]

just realised that link is non-heritage so maybe not.. but it says they fit well.  and if replacing the whole lot then most of it only needs to match up to itself if you see what I mean.

 

still I might compare costs with 'proper' panels when i get round to it

Edited by stuart bowes, 10 June 2022 - 10:53 AM.

[elliot341]

I've managed to get pattern panels to fit reasonably well to a heritage scuttle. Just takes a bit longer fettling to fit. In regards to rust, minis rust from the inside to out and the metal is only 0.9mm thick. Once you've got a wire wheel on the front part of the wing, there probably wont be any good metal left. Cutting it out is the only real option. 

 

The only place I havent or wont cut out rust is Ive got a few little spots near the roofline where im going to grind back, treat etc as in my resto im not removing the roof lining etc. I can cope if those little spots come back. Rust on the front of a white mini will be a bit of a disappointment after youve made a lot of effort.

 

Flip front etc thats upto u mate!

[stuart bowes]

I like the idea of the flip open / removeable front, partly it looks cool but more practically as well it's so much better for access to everything

 

I don't think my dad's sold on the idea though so it'll be up for debate and no doubt he'll win the argument lol

Edited by stuart bowes, 10 June 2022 - 02:28 PM.

[sonscar]

Personally on a road car I would never consider a flip front,banging your head on it six times a week when checking if you have any oil or water left would wear thin.Removable front and the space to put it down without standing on it?This is just my view,your car your choice.No disrespect intended,Steve..

[stuart bowes]

None taken at all, perfectly reasonable point made.. probably one of the reasons that you don't see it on all the minis just generally the ones with the engine swaps or more flashy builds..

Anyway as I say long way off yet let's get all the general repairs done first

[stuart bowes]

new patch added to rear section of inner sill:

 

 

still not winning any beauty contests with my welding but it's solid and where this one is being hidden by the outer sill anyway I'm more than happy to leave the welds thick rather than grinding back too far, especially being so close to the subframe mount

 

besides which. next job goes over that same area with more welding anyway, to replace the bottom half of that mount bracket and weld in a new captive nut:

 

 

 

strangely the top bolt came out nice and clean, threads look like new as opposed to bottom bolt which snapped and needed the nut cut and punching out  (was going anyway no major loss) both bolts will be replaced with new obviously

Edited by stuart bowes, 11 June 2022 - 02:24 PM.

[colinf1]

If you look at the genuine repair panels, the folded bracket has a strengtening indentation in the centre of the fold.



It might also be a good idea to ensure the top captive nut is securely welded to the panel

[stuart bowes]

yes I saw that on there before I cut it off, I was thinking though I've got some 12x12 box section i might cut diagonally and weld in maybe.. tbc

 

MS paint special graphics skills:

 

open side inwards obviously

 

the top nut is fine but I suppose I could stick a bit of weld on it just to be sure

Edited by stuart bowes, 11 June 2022 - 06:36 PM.