42 replies to this topic

[Retro_10s]

Looks a nice project, and you've kept your enthusiasm up which counts for a lot on those initial strip down realisations!

Quick word in your ear about your intentions to fit polybushes on the subframe mounts. In my opinion you should steer WELL CLEAR. There are a lot of posts going into detail about this, but the short story is that the mini was designed to have SOLID mounts for the subframe and was only changed to rubber to attract/appeal to a slightly different customer base. You will notice quite a marked positive difference in handling by solid mounting the subframe with little to no increase in transferred noise.

Either use new rubber or go for solid mounts, poly will let you down,it's awful, especially the rear mounts that attach to the footwells,

Enjoying the project, looking forward to the updates!

Edited by Retro_10s, 07 September 2022 - 06:53 AM.

[supersimono]

Sorry for not posting, been busy tackling odd jobs on the mini and didn’t get round to posting. I’ll post some pictures shortly.

 

Unless you're particularly bothered about what it looks like under the bonnet, I would be sticking with a single 1.75" (or HIF44). You'll get similar performance and any of the perceived on paper gains would not really be noticeable to the average driver on the road. 

 

Twins do look good though.  

Yeach I spoke with the engine builder and the guys at minispares, both agreed a 1.75” carb is more than enough. As much as it would look nice I think I can make use of that money elsewhere

 

 

Looks a nice project, and you've kept your enthusiasm up which counts for a lot on those initial strip down realisations!

Quick word in your ear about your intentions to fit polybushes on the subframe mounts. In my opinion you should steer WELL CLEAR. There are a lot of posts going into detail about this, but the short story is that the mini was designed to have SOLID mounts for the subframe and was only changed to rubber to attract/appeal to a slightly different customer base. You will notice quite a marked positive difference in handling by solid mounting the subframe with little to no increase in transferred noise.

Either use new rubber or go for solid mounts, poly will let you down,it's awful, especially the rear mounts that attach to the footwells,

Enjoying the project, looking forward to the updates!

When I bough them I half them in my hand and thought ‘these are crap’. I don’t know how they can be sold as an ‘upgrade’ as they feel so week. I ended up buying a new set of the originals.

[supersimono]

• I had the subframe sandblasted and powder coated. Rebuilt with new bushes, tie bar and lower arm. Annoyingly I must have got mixed up which side I needed a lower arm so bought a new LH and only realised today when trying to fit wheel hub that I’ve got a LH on the RH side…
• stripped both wheel hubs, shot blasted and painted with new wheel bearing sets. Added new ball joints too. Haven’t taken a picture of those so I’ll do that tomorrow.
• stripped brake callipers, cleaned and painted. Need to buy service kit before refitting. Again will take pics tomorrow
• bought upgraded discs, ready to fit once I solve the lower arm issue
• in the process of repairing studs on pedal box. I’ll take it to work and use the finger file to grind it back

so my next steps are:

• bring the engine home from work and refit, major milestone getting it back in!!!
• start fretting all the other parts, still need to buy a new fuel pump and fit distributor
• Check loom - it works but since it’s out I thought it was a good idea to fault find and fix or buy new and add extra cable protection

 

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[supersimono]

after a few issues with logging in to my account, here are those missing images.

 

I also managed to get the correct lower arm for DS so I've fitted the wheel hubs, driveshafts and she is finally back on four wheels! Yes I realise the split pin is missing on that wheel, I need to remove redo the nut as it didn't alight between 250-275Nm.

 

Minispares don't have the DC disc shield so I'll have to wait for that to come back in stock. I was thinking to respray them red but since the calipers are red I might go black for contrast.

 

I bought the seal replacement kit for the newly painted calipers and had a go at doing those. I watched so many videos on how to do it so I was aware how difficult the steel ring is to fit and guess what, I managed to roll one over despite being careful....  So I'll have to order a new set unless you can buy them separately?

 

 

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[Retro_10s]

Great progress buddy, looking good with the frame back in and cleaned up!

[Bunji81]

Some cracking progress… engine looks and reads like it’s going to be sweet…. It’s entirely your choice, but I’d go twin carb set up for the look and noise

[supersimono]

Some cracking progress… engine looks and reads like it’s going to be sweet…. It’s entirely your choice, but I’d go twin carb set up for the look and noise

 

Thanks Bunji! It's picking up pace for sure. I'll consider the twin SU in the future as I can't justify spending more money right now as I still have quite a bit on my list...

 

This weekend I finally tackled the pedal box and welding the new bolts/studs. I am a complete n00b at welding so it doesn't look pretty but since it's not visible anyway it doesn't matter

 

I had real trouble getting the weld to stick to the pedal box so I assumed I wasn't keeping the welder on there long enough so in my later attempts I left it longer at it seems to have worked. Pic attached before painting. I also did a dry fit fitting it back in the bulkhead it all aligns.

 

I also attempted to redo my wheel hub nuts as the castle nuts didn't alight with hole. Having real problems getting the DS one to align and after 3 attempts and torquing to 270N it's still not there. Since I was basically lifting the weight of the car and I couldn't break the torque I'll have another go when the engine is in which I plan to bring home and drop in next weekend :)

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Edited by supersimono, 04 October 2022 - 07:13 AM.

[supersimono]

big update - the engine is back in!!!

 

last bit was a bit fiddly trying to align the subframe engine mounts but got there in the end :) I'm on holiday for a few weeks so I wanted to get this done before. 

 

Slowly putting the other bits back in but minispares didn't have the fuel pump in stock so I can't complete it yet. As I go through the all the other bits I'll have a look to see if they need a clean up/service kit.

 

 

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[Retro_10s]

Wahey!! Great news buddy, well done! Brilliant when it starts to resemble a usable car again!

[supersimono]

Hi all, sorry for no updates. Been on holiday in St. Lucia the last week.

I’ve started putting on a few bits - radiator and alternator. I then looked at the clutch engine breather but have noticed that there is no hole in the flywheel housing to vent. I replaced the old one as there was a crack (DAM6259) and replaced it with new (TRD10015) as I couldn’t get hold of the original.

I’ve gone through the forum and believe I still need it so would I be able drill out the hole?

[supersimono]

photos of the area I'm referring to. 

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[colinf1]

Are you sure that there isn't a hole? There is baffling cast into the housing itself, that acts as a splashguard so only the fumes escape.

 

TRD10015 is listed as having a breather hole on minispares.

[KTS]

i may be stating the obvious, but opening up the vent will mean taking the engine out and the transfer casing off.

 

Are both breathers absolutely vital - what's the views on running with just one, or adding a breather take-off to the rocker cover ?

Edited by KTS, 24 October 2022 - 01:52 PM.

[supersimono]

Sorry for not posting - I've been doing odd jobs but forgetting to take photos & update.

 

Refitted the pedal box (what a difficult job that was!) and brake pivot assembly. I bought a new master cylinder and servo service kit but I'm struggling to take that apart... Is it something I should do or could I leave it as I never had any issues with brakes before and I can put that £100 towards something else? All I really wanted to do was take it apart, clean it and paint it.

 

I've also striped, cleaned and serviced the carb (hif44). I know that when I get this on rolling road that the needle will have to be changed so I'll leave that to the experts to figure out which is the best. Does anyone know of a good place in the Berkshire/Reading area? I see ACDood does mobile tuning?

 

Question on the servicing of the carb - is there supposed to be a washer between the jet bearing and body? The service kit doesn't illustrate is (see image) but the kit comes with a metal washer and the sucarb website illustrates it? https://sucarb.co.uk...er-dismantling  (step 4H)

 

I forgot to get the gasket for the intake but I'm considering replacing the current filter with the MED stub stack?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[supersimono]

Hi all, hope you had a good Xmas!

Finally got round to doing some work as it’s been to cold to do anything recently. Santa has bought me some
Mini spares vouchers so I have a bit of spending money and I still need to buy a new front look and all new rubber fuel lines and hoses.

Prepped the petrol tank for repainting and bought a new radiator hose set and hub stack filter from MED. But I’ve hit a problem…

I thought I had checked which carb I had but when trying to fit the hub stack (for a HIF44) only to realise that I’ve actually got a HIF38 - such a silly mistake! I’d even taken it apart, stripped and serviced it and not noticed…

Anyway, considering the work I’ve had done on the engine and going stage 3, would a HIF38 be of or is it worth going HIF44? All the extra bits I’ve bought are HIF44. Is there anywhere k can part exchange or shall I just sell on eBay and buy a new/refurbished one.