7 replies to this topic

[SteadyEddie]

Hello! Got a mini with this the "early metro" style indicator (BAU5345) and YUF101030 light switch. Headlights have been working fine until this morning, where now neither the ride lights, dipped lights or full beam work. The only thing that does work is full beam flash by pulling the indicator towards me. I've done some investigating with a multimeter that I'll summarise with bullet points.

 

 

- I don't get 12V at the blue cable on the indicator 

- I do get 12V at the "full beam flash" terminal on the indicator (purple and black cable)

- Jumping the 12V from "full beam flash" across to the regular headlights on the indicator (blue cable) gives me working headlights/full beam

- There is continuity between the blue wire on the indicator all the way back to the switch

- The switch itself still works (measuring resistance between poles on switch with it disconnected)

- I get 12V at the brown wire at the switch, so that's good

- If I jump the 12V and blue wires at the switch, I can get 12V at the connector where the indicator connects to the loom, but if I then plug in the indicator I don't get 12V at the blue wire (despite proving there is continuity there)

- If instead of jumping the 12V and blue wires at the switch, I use the switch, I don't even get 12V at the connector with it unplugged.

 

 

Basically I think I've shown that the problem is not beyond the indicator stalk (as jumping 12V to the blue wire input means the lights work), but I have two contracdicting things:

 

- I have shown the switch works with the continuity mode on a multimeter, yet it doesn't get the same result as jumping a wire across the contacts

- I don't get 12V at the indicator end of the blue wire when I have the 12V at the switch jumped to the switch end of the blue wire, despite proving there is continuity all along the blue wire.

 

Any thoughts are welcome!

 

 

[andyapanel]

I don't have the wiring diagram but have you bypassed the switch by using a short length of wire in the multiple to the different outlets?

 

The switch can and does fail. It can also be sneaky and damage the multi plug.

I used to carry a repair until I changed the wiring to relays.

 

Are the earths being the grill OK? 

 

I have had a bit of corrosion in the column stalk contacts interfere with current flow.

 

Hope that is helpful: good luck

[SteadyEddie]

Yes, bypassing the switch still doesn't give me lights. I believe the earths are fine as when I connect the flash 12V line to the dipped beam wire at the indicator, the lights work fine.

 

 

What I've done for now to allow me to keep driving (until I solve the problem properly) is move the flasher 12V connector to the main headlight socket instead.

 

Would people recommend switching to relays for better reliability, as this isn't the first problem I've had with lights (as you can probably tell by the solder burn mark on the black wire in the image).

Attached Files

•  headlights.jpg   51.48K   0 downloads

Edited by SteadyEddie, 01 February 2024 - 01:25 PM.

[Ethel]

The amount of current headlights take will erode the stalk contacts  & once they're worn they'll arc more & wear even faster.

 

Relays greatly reduce the current at the stalk contacts & you can get some failsafe redundancy if by using crossover relays. 

[andyapanel]

I fitted a relay kit from Wired by Wilson in each mini
I can thoroughly recommend his kit

[SteadyEddie]

Ok update on this, so wiring the lights like that in the indicator only fixed the headlights. What I didn't realise is that I have no dash light or rear lights!

 

I've done more prodding and this is what I've found.

 

- All the fuses are ok (4 fuses style box)

- I don't get 12V at the 4th fuse

- If I put the wire at position 8 into position 4, I get working headlights (with the switch) and the tail lights, indicators, and left ride light are always on

 

Any suggestions from this finding?

[sonscar]

Something I find useful,on a clean paper use the wiring diagram and draw out only the wiring for the lights up to and including the battery.There will be about six wires.Using a light bulb and some test leads see where the bulb stops lighting.Your fault will be between the last two points.Check connections for green gunk,tightness,broken inside the insulation etc.Do not skip about and confuse yourself.Enjoy,Steve..
Do you have a Dim/Dip equipped car?

Edited by sonscar, 06 February 2024 - 11:03 AM.

[cal844]

What year car? Check the back of the fuse box for corrosion. Change the headlight switch and then check at the stalk.