29 replies to this topic

[Mk2Brett]

Finished up the timing cover install today with the pulley.
I've fitted a MED pulley wheel 

 

Started some small re-assembly as well with the new retrosport billet oil filter fitting and new oil transfer pipe.

 

This will be the last bit of work for a few weeks.

 

[Mk2Brett]

Back to some small jobs on the Mini this week.

 

Started fitting the MED water pump in prep to start adding the radiator and head back onto the engine.

 

Bit of work on the brakes with the HEL Mini hardline delete to braided hoses. I could not get replacement hardline near me and I'm not up to the skill of flaring the hardline myself, So i've opted for high quality HEL braided kits that I can maintain myself.

Also started by adding a new clutch slave cylinder + pushrod + clutch return spring.

[Mk2Brett]

Work started on the head

ARP Head stud kit and also installed the s-can engine steady bar.

New head gasket 

MED 1.5 Roller rockers installed and valve clearances done

Getting the first preview of what it will look like soon!

 

Next steps will be on to getting the radiator installed and re-wiring up the ignition. Hopefully can get some of that done on the weekend.

[Gregorytiz]

When it comes to upgrading your Mini's wheels, should the focus be on enhancing performance with optimal offsets and weight savings, or is the visual appeal of stylish alloys more important? How do you balance these factors when choosing wheels for your classic ride?

[Hexxeh]

Looking great!

The silver bit on the edge of the crank pulley, have you painted that? I fitted the same one last year and found it quite quickly surface rusted and looked a bit naff. A bit of a pain to reach once completely re-assembled, but while you've got easier access if it's the sort of thing that bothers you you might want to put something on it to protect it?

[Mk2Brett]

Started mocking up the radiator install as I'll need to make some custom brackets. 

Also got the exhaust manifold back on so I could test fit the new MED setup HIF44 carb and airfilter.

 

Over the next week or so I hope to start bolting it all together properly and then on to the wiring.

[sonscar]

I never like to see installed engines with open ports,plug holes rocker covers etc.Something could easily spoil your day.coming along nicely.Steve..

[Mk2Brett]

I never like to see installed engines with open ports,plug holes rocker covers etc.Something could easily spoil your day.coming along nicely.Steve..

 

Yeah good point thanks for the tip

[68Deluxe]

Looking awesome Brett, but I reckon the chrome rocker cover with the S/T decal is the business! 

Edited by 68Deluxe, 19 June 2025 - 11:46 PM.

[Mk2Brett]

Looking awesome Brett, but I reckon the chrome rocker cover with the S/T decal is the business! 

 

The S/T rocker cover definitely looks mint. I just wasn't sure if it had clearance to fit the 1.5 roller tip rockers so i definitely need to do some checking before making the decision on which to use.

[68Deluxe]

 

Looking awesome Brett, but I reckon the chrome rocker cover with the S/T decal is the business! 

 

The S/T rocker cover definitely looks mint. I just wasn't sure if it had clearance to fit the 1.5 roller tip rockers so i definitely need to do some checking before making the decision on which to use.

 

 

[Mk2Brett]

Not too much work on the Mini this weekend, we spent Saturday driving 3 hours away to pick up a custom dash I ordered.

This was the original state, and someone has made a real mess of the wiring which I need to sort out.

 

The new dash that will go in soon once I clean up all the wiring.

One day hope to have matching gauges, but for now just using the ones we have.

 

 

Bit more wiring up, I've connected the fuel filter with fuel pressure guage adapter

 

Lastly was the boot, we had attempted a rust treatment but it might have been too cold when we applied it and it just peeled straight off. It was a brush on black paint treatment designed for automotive use, but didnt have much luck. Will try again but using CRC treatments which I've had good results with in the past.

 

We will in the future cut this boot panel out and weld in a new one, but not at the stage to be able to do that now. I'll reinforce it with some fibre reinforced putty and seal it up until then.

[Mk2Brett]

Bit more work this week, started with rust converter in the boot followed by some CRC Black Zinc.

 

Then removed the front carpets to expose the next issue whish if some floorpan rust.

 

We will need to order new floor pans and a boot floor to weld in, but until we get there I am going to do some rust treatment and fiberglass reinforce them for now.

 

Lucky the back seat/rear floor pans are free from rust.

[Mk2Brett]

First layer of fibreglass and resin in the boot today. Will do a few more layers before priming and painting.

 

Spent the day with a grinder and a strip disc removing all the rust from the front floor pans, then used some Brunox rust converter and epoxy primer.

Second layer of Brunox

I'll need to do a few more layers of the rust converter/epoxy primer.

 

Stripped the back floors as well, they were in good condition luckily with no real rust.

After the initial layer of rust converter

 Will do a few more coats of this rust converter/epoxy primer and then move on and seal it with a full epoxy primer. I'll then seal it all in with some 2K paint and clear coat that I have.

 

[Mk2Brett]

More interior work this week.

Now that the rust converter/epoxy primer is set I put another coat of an epoxy primer down

 

Once that set, we did multiple layers of fibreglass and resin on the floor pans to add some strength.

 

Once the resin and fibreglass was dry, I then applied a 2K gloss black paint over the entire floor to seal everything in, and then another few coats of a 2K clear

We did a similar fibreglass fix in the boot, so once that was set I used some heavy duty black coating for that.

 

Once all the paint had cured, I started to apply the sound deadening material, this probably added another 20% weight to the car but I think it will be worth it.

 

Next up is to work on the rear seat, touch up a few surface rust spots and redo the rear trim as well as the front crashpad trim.