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Rattle can the mini - STARTED!


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#16 Senile Old Git

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 03:34 PM

Retro is spot on, take your time do NOT rush it, otherwise you will be waiting a week for it to fully harden. My acid test is tap the paint with a finger nail after 24 hours, if it leaves a mark its not ready to flatten. Use 1200 / 1500 wet & dry with soap, then follow up with compound such as G3. But that is well documented on
here.

Hope it goes well for you, I personally am spraying a few panels in 2K for the first time (does that make me a 2K virgin?) Also wait for Woody to advise, I am doing nothing till he responds to each question I post!! But that is good it allows each stage to fully harden

#17 xchickyx

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 03:34 PM

Used grade 400 sand paper over the whole panel to take off the gloss and was told this is all i need to do. Should i have done more?

#18 Retro_10s

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 03:51 PM

Yes you should have done lots more :w00t:...., you wont have got all the dust off the panel so the paint wont have stuck properly anyway

Once you've sanded and flatted down the car ready for painting You need to wipe down the car with a degreaser to get rid of of... well.... grease :-, finger prints and muck etc.... this also helps get rid of powdered up paint the sanding created. Without doing this the paint will stick to the dust, not the panel, meaning it will flake off and chip easily :genius:

White spirit is a very good de-greaser or use cellulose thinners. wait till they've evaporated fully until you start painting. This should only take 10 mins or so.

Edited by Retro_10s, 21 January 2007 - 03:52 PM.


#19 transtrack

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 03:52 PM

hi I dont envy you ,the first mini I ever painted was done with coach paint and a brush.many years ago and to do what your doing without a load of electric tools .has to be admirerd.before you started you did flat the car back panel wiped it and applied primer.then flatted the primer back.I presume you are using celly paint.as already posted dont try and spray to much three coats is not really enough.you will have to buff it up when it has hardend this is not the best time of the year for it but good luck.My sons mini which i sprayed last summer took four months just useing filler and sanding back three coats of prima three coats of black base. two of a special flake. and five coats of laquere.it was a *Female doggy*.now he wants to change the color.but dont worry if you dont try you dont learn fraNK

#20 xchickyx

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 03:54 PM

Whoops... down to experience then? :w00t:

So is it worth me carrying on with the door or should i strip it all down again and go from the start. Dont want anything to rust mind.

The neighbors are going to think im mad :-

#21 Retro_10s

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 03:57 PM

You haven't told us what kind of paint you're using by the way mate. sounds like acrylic from the price...

I very much doubt it's celly from a rattle can.

Sorry mate, but without a doubt I'd start again. You can't polish a turd, let alone a dusty one :-

#22 xchickyx

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:06 PM

Just been out and had a look at her.

To be honest it doesn't look too bad, its a very nice smooth finish with very little imperfections. It's a little blotchy in places but i could see another coat or two covering it up.

the paint i use is called u-pol power can, looks pretty basic to me. Maybe if i carry on as i am with the door (which is currently the only bit im spraying) and then do the proper prep for the rest of the car?


opinions, i'll get a picture if that helps?

#23 Retro_10s

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:09 PM

No, sorry bud but the patch you've painted will look fine but it wont have adhered to the panel, if you do the rest of the car properly as described above then that's cool, but i promise you that the patch you didn't will flake off.

** also, on the U-pol can, probably on the back of it,... it will say what kind of paint it is.. for instance... 1stage (1k), Two pack (2k).. etc etc... need to know, is it gloss?... or do you need a laquer too?

Edited by Retro_10s, 21 January 2007 - 04:19 PM.


#24 biggav

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:19 PM

DOH!!!! another tip for the future if using rattle cans is to use 2 cans and a bucket of hot water..... Shake the cans for a good few minutes each, then put one in the bucket and start spraying with the other... after a min or 2, swap cans (shake the one that came out the bucket a bit being careful not to get water on your panels)

The hot water keeps the pressure up in the cans and the solvent starts to evaporate a little quicker on the panel.

#25 xchickyx

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:27 PM

I feel like a right tw4t, yea it's gloss paint. I can't see whether it says 1 stage etc on it anywhere, its a really basic can. Well apart from the giant font 'PROFESSIONAL SPRAY PAINT, FOR CAR BODY'.

And i was told there was no need for primer as long as i rub the panal down loads with sand paper and put a few extra coats on? It's strange because i'm doing exactly (as far as i know) what the lady in the car panel repair shop said :S

And i'm trying to get college work done but its really not going to well :-

#26 biggav

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:33 PM

Ive done spray jobs before where we just rubbed the top layer of paint off and blew over it with a new coat..... its ok if you are just tidying it up a bit but should not be called a re-spray....

A proper job takes time and loads of work.

#27 xchickyx

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:39 PM

Well i'm prepared to put the work in.


And i'm not doubting what you guys are saying, im sure you're 100% right im just holding onto loose threads here.

#28 Retro_10s

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:46 PM

Ok so you've either got 2pack in a can, in which case, dont spray for too long as it's a health hazard that require breathing apparatus, or it's single stage acrylic, i suspect it is the latter. you wont need a laquer but you'll have to Wetsand the final coat back using 1500 wet and dry, then G3 it, then let it sit for a couple of days, then T-cut it (or use G10 ideally)

they haven't told you to do anything wrong as such mate, they just didn't tell you to degrease and de-dust the car, which is a shame,... but not a problem really as it can be fixed.

This kind of re-spray, as Big-gav sais, isn't really a respray. The original paint is basically acting as a primer so that's ok, you don't need a primer. This is commonly called a 'blow over'.

#29 transtrack

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:53 PM

Attached File  mini_006.jpg   461.47K   82 downloadsAttached File  mini_006.jpg   461.47K   82 downloadsHi never heard of that paint how quick does it dry and as for the door you have done i would start again,are you using a primer you dont mention it.I think that lady is wrong I have never sprayed a black gloss over a white gloss and got away with it.I have made every mistake you could think of but have learnt from them.no one gets things right all the time.there is a lot of good advise on this forum have a quick look through before you have another go cheers frank

#30 xchickyx

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Posted 21 January 2007 - 05:02 PM

*at retro*

Oh right, well that's exactly what i was wanting to use. I didn't want to have to bring down to bare metal or anything and i explained this to the lady in the shop, which is probably why she told me i could get away with just sanding it down.

I didn't just sand it down by the way, i gave 3 good rub overs with the grit-400 stuff and then did a thorough brush down with a towel to make sure there wasn't any loose paint on the surface.

I didn't mean to sound like i was just doing a quick job, i was trying to prep it to the best of my ability.

Edited by xchickyx, 21 January 2007 - 05:04 PM.





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