45 replies to this topic

[Daze]

Lol, no problem on the hi-jack!! its interesting.

I dont want this to become yet another SU vs Weber thread. I know SU's are probably better, but dammit, I love Webers! I want one, I've got one, and its going on!!

I've also considered the SW10, but the smoother idle is the bit which I don't like. I enjoy the sound of rough idle, and the challenge of driving a car like that around town.

[icklemini]

ok. well i got a 1275 mg engine. how best can i get 90bhp out of it and how much would it cost?

looking at a modded head and a sw5 will see that kinda figure (depending upon the rolling road of course)

[E.L.M.O]

how much on average would it cost to get the 90bhp figure

[icklemini]

how much on average would it cost to get the 90bhp figure

to be honest really does depend and how you want the engine to behave - 90hp is easy - slap a big head and hairy cam.
will drive like pants unless its flat out but you would get 90hp!

or you could strap nitrous to it - again easy HP, but drivabilty/usabilty and reliabilty suffers.

*torque* is what give you the 'arse pushed into seat' acceleration, not just a x amount of HP (at silly high revs...)

a modded head and sw5 would see you perhaps more in the 75-80 hp area, (again - depending upon the rollers used), but the engine will pull v nicely. cams are about 100, heads about 350 + subdries + a *decent* rolling road tune...

hth,
Dave

[E.L.M.O]

how much on average would it cost to get the 90bhp figure

to be honest really does depend and how you want the engine to behave - 90hp is easy - slap a big head and hairy cam.
will drive like pants unless its flat out but you would get 90hp!

or you could strap nitrous to it - again easy HP, but drivabilty/usabilty and reliabilty suffers.

*torque* is what give you the 'arse pushed into seat' acceleration, not just a x amount of HP (at silly high revs...)

a modded head and sw5 would see you perhaps more in the 75-80 hp area, (again - depending upon the rollers used), but the engine will pull v nicely. cams are about 100, heads about 350 + subdries + a *decent* rolling road tune...

hth,
Dave

what cam would you recommend ickle? I got a 286 in a spare engine. Or is that one to hairy?

[icklemini]

what cam would you recommend ickle? I got a 286 in a spare engine. Or is that one to hairy?

You really need a modded head to suit the cam - you wont get the benefit of the 286 with a standard head...

[E.L.M.O]

so MG 1275, plus stage 3 head + 286 cam?

[fikus01]

my friend dave got this result on a 1293 engine, on a 1 3/4" su with a 286 cam, timed on verniers, med stage 3 head, full 1.5:1 titan roller rockers, straight cut drop gears and 3.4 diff on 13" wheels

86bhp@wheels on a old but reliable dyno (NOT BALDWINS). it was built by MED but its not who builds it that makes the bhp, just as long as its built and timed up properly with the right parts, every engine to this spec shud make in the region of 75 - 85bhp@wheels thats about 90 - 100bhp@crank

[Udo]

Just seeing as I posted near the top of this and personally have no prefrence over weber or Su but I had a weber and the Su was bust.

My 1293, 286 cam, weber, standard size valves but ported, lightened balenced bottom end, standard rockers, vernier timing gear, 3.4 diff on 12" wheels made 84 at wheels on RR I use and 82 on a different one locally

[Guess-Works.com]

Personally I havn't found the 286 lumpy at idle, but I s'pose it's what you consider lumpy...

I have a 290 and that will idle happily @ about 1100, ok it higher than normal, but it's a performance engine...

I had a 1300 mk1 escort with webbers and a kent highlift cam, now that was a lumpy idle, could not decide if it wanted to idle @ 800 or 1200, so it was up and down all the time...

[fikus01]

true if the cam is lumpy at normal mini tickover then just raise it til it settles!! its not law to tickover at 800rpm!!

[Daze]

Who cares about lumpy idle? Lumpy idle is what the a-series is all about!! Sounds awesome! B)

[E.L.M.O]

not good when your sitting at traffic lights and you have to rev the C**p out of it and spin the wheels just to get the thing to move!
my mate was in the same postion with his 1380. Who pulls up next to him at the lights, a cop! Doh

[icklemini]

but its not who builds it that makes the bhp

You would be very surprised to be honest. Granted the bottom end doesnt make bhp but it has to deliver it
: A decent built bottom end (rings, bearing clearances, tunnel condition, tolerances, etc) can make quite a difference...

true if the cam is lumpy at normal mini tickover then just raise it til it settles

tru - but fuel is wasted and engines can have a tendancy to start 'running' in those situations
286 usually needs to tick over at 1100 ish

You can get away with quite hairy cams if other areas are address - for example say a 286 is lumpy with the standard ignition: using a mega jolt can smooth it out and gives a better ignition map at low engine speed (sub 3500rpm) so you can get improvements in economy and power delivery...

TTFN,
Dave

[E.L.M.O]

MG 1275, plus stage 3 head + 286 cam and twin su's.

would that work? would it give sufficant torque and bhp? what su's and how much?