187 replies to this topic

[lvm18]

to hold the bottom together I thought I better make sure it was up to scratch so I fitted a centre strap to the engine.



The best bet though would be the 4 bolt straps method like Dan has done. Only problem with that is the extra cost of line boring....but if you want the best that is the way to go.

Edited by lvm18, 15 June 2007 - 10:43 PM.

[not so mini dan]

I just happen to have enough to buy them but probably not enough left over to do the repairs

Also no trailer doesnt help.

[danwebster]

I'm pretty sure that from memory, my main caps are made by Jack Knight, all steel. Probably overkill to be honest, but another item that has me sleeping better at night!

[lvm18]

various photos of the cam carriers and head on the long cam version



note the numbering of the cam followers/buckets to ensure they are in the right wear holes.



these need to be shimmed to ensure they fit with the correct valve gap. a bit more arduous than on the 5 port as these have to be ground by hand and measured to fit.... times 16. Micrometers are handy here. If someone knows a faster well please tell!



To the right hand side you can see the weber alpha Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) which is used to measure the load factor to make the ignition 3D for the megajolt.

Edited by lvm18, 15 June 2007 - 10:47 PM.

[lvm18]

Hi Dan.

Yes your cap looks very nice....and I was fighting myself over whether to get one. I think you did the right thing with your anticipated power outputs. No one around my area had the tooling to do it (except for a tractor pulling motors!)....so that was the deciding factor in the end.

[danwebster]

Well, at least if I ever do the same as my brother has done, and replace the small valve with a big valve head, i'm pretty confident that my bottom end is up to the job.

The big valves are good for close to 200hp on kads dyno (about 300hp on most rolling roads hehe)

[lvm18]

...yes not so mini dan.

I know what you mean. Its a good price for a bit of automotive history though.

Apparently there are about 100 convertibles and 170 Coupes.

There are a lot more of the Mk2 Midas.

[lvm18]

I think mine is going to be in the region of 110-130 depending on build quality all down to the choice of cam. If I changed to L14s I could start catching Dan up

[danwebster]

Thats the beauty of them though isn't it....more power is a cam change away

I think your engine will be really well suited to the car though, I can imagine it being great fun when the sun is out

[not so mini dan]

Is the Midas front engine, front wheel drive then?

[lvm18]

.... will be using the obligatory straight cut / close ration gears, along with straight cut transfer gears and centre oil pickup pipe. I cut a corner here and used the non roller bearing version of the idler bearing. Dans choice though is a better bet and easier to set up if I'm not mistaken.





I fitted a 4 pin cross bearing for the diff to be on the safe side.

Wish I had the pennys for a quaife ATB!



Also fitted a magnetic oil trap to back of gearbox. The one with the mesh fitted. They work well as long as they are cleaned REGULARLY to avoid C**p going to the pump.

[lvm18]

Yes, normally they are front wheel drive......

However there is one off, a Mk2 that was specially made for Gordon Murray by the Midas Factory, as a present, which is rear wheel drive, using an Alfasud boxer engine.

Yes I cant wait to have the KAD engine running with the head dropped! The roar of 16 valves, 4 throats and full straight cut gearset.....yum yum!

Edited by lvm18, 15 June 2007 - 10:51 PM.

[danwebster]

I also ran conventional idler and synchro box for a long time until I could afford what I have now.....absolutely nothing wrong with that setup, it served me well for a long time!

[lvm18]

I modified my megajolt system so that I could program the 3d maps via bluetooth from either a laptop, pocket pc or smart phone.

Its a lot more convenient being able to change the map as you are driving down the road!

Here it is being programmed on my pocket pc.

Edited by lvm18, 15 June 2007 - 06:00 PM.

[lvm18]

the oil pump is powered by a jackshaft from the crank. This is basically the existing timing setup to drive the cam, however in the KAD headed system there is no requirement for the cam timing here, so the cam lobes can be machined off to reduce reciprocating weight.

I then chose to use a high velocity timing setup that kent makes.

notice that it uses large simplex teeth on a totally different kind of chain

some people complain that these drives have wear problems.....but it doesnt matter to me if it does as I wont be running my timing from this anyway.....just the oil pump where the criticality factor is turning, not accurate positioning.

Edited by lvm18, 15 June 2007 - 10:55 PM.