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1970 Bay Window Westfalia


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#16 Tom Booth

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Posted 03 November 2007 - 09:33 AM

preety sure its a 1600, on twin carbs, but its in as many pieces :thumbsup:

#17 Bacon

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Posted 10 November 2007 - 12:32 AM

Great van,

I did have a 71 westy from cali,sold it a couple of years ago.Your wright its just unreal the condition of them,metal wise.

Do you mind me asking what sort of money he paid for it?

#18 Bungle

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Posted 10 November 2007 - 07:13 AM

if you after another check out 50-67.com Shaun all ways has a supply of good ones

#19 Bacon

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Posted 11 November 2007 - 07:02 PM

if you after another check out 50-67.com Shaun all ways has a supply of good ones



Cheers

#20 Bungle

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Posted 11 November 2007 - 07:08 PM

spoke to Shaun at 50-67 today he has 10 rust free buses on their way to him and be ready to sell early January

#21 Tom Booth

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Posted 11 November 2007 - 10:57 PM

We have an engine!!

1600 twin port on a single solex. Resoanley awsome condition, dad heard it running when he collected, said it sounded good. Goal is to get it in and get it running before christmas.

My dad (Paul) went to look at a sisters workmates 1968 bus today, see how everything is bolted and what not, got some good pictures and helpfull info. Should see some proper updates soon, E.G body work and engine fitting.

#22 uncle festa

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Posted 13 November 2007 - 03:43 PM

We have an engine!!

1600 twin port on a single solex. Resoanley awsome condition, dad heard it running when he collected, said it sounded good. Goal is to get it in and get it running before christmas.

My dad (Paul) went to look at a sisters workmates 1968 bus today, see how everything is bolted and what not, got some good pictures and helpfull info. Should see some proper updates soon, E.G body work and engine fitting.


Sounds good.
Do you know if the engine is unleaded?
If you looking for a bit more oomph, then 1641cc conversion is a good start and you can change the heads too unleaded then too, it's not that expencive too do either. I would stick too single carb as twin carbs on aircooled vdubs are notorious for being a pain, especially in the winter.

#23 Bungle

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Posted 13 November 2007 - 04:34 PM

theres a lot of talk about VW's being leaded or unleaded

from what i can read if it will burn then a air cooled VW engine will run on it and it doesnt care if it has lead in it or not

these engines were so basic and sold all over the world that they will run on anything and do a very high millage between rebuilds

#24 slide

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Posted 13 November 2007 - 09:33 PM

theres a lot of talk about VW's being leaded or unleaded

from what i can read if it will burn then a air cooled VW engine will run on it and it doesnt care if it has lead in it or not

these engines were so basic and sold all over the world that they will run on anything and do a very high millage between rebuilds

.......hi there,, all the vwub engines after 67 had the hard valve seats(or what ever the propo name is) ...so yea unleaded is not a proplarmo.....i ;v done three of these babies up-2 campers an a crewcab-so just ask away if any advice is required ...the 4 into one exhaust with jaytubes (noheat exchangers)is the cheapest way to gain a littlebit of performance, and if you have the covers on still under the van -get em off -they just hold in the wet andwill rot the sills quicker than anything

#25 jonbott

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 05:59 AM

hiya nice bus we have a 1970 cali westy too,not quite rustfree tho :(

#26 Bungle

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 07:08 AM

come on jon up yours up in the any other projects section

we are making quite a collection now

#27 Tom Booth

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Posted 16 December 2007 - 07:50 PM

Right. I had forgotten about this to be honest :) So I appologise for that.

Update minus pictures....

My dad has fitted a new battery tray on the off side, Then when fitting the rear engine cover, he noticed the nearside was bent in, then when looking around, noticed a few bent bits and pieces, so decided to fit a battery tray that side to get the shell into its origional shape.

So, to recap - Fitted 2 battery trays, one on each side an de-greased the engine bay.

He also went to buy a gearbox yesterday, 4 speed 1600 gearbox, was an ebay find :( Had to go all the way to Wales thou ;D
I'll keep you updated from now on, I'll grab some pictures tomorow too.

Next up, I think hes buying some new driveshafts for it, Still hoping to get the engine and box in there before christmas running!

#28 Bungle

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Posted 16 December 2007 - 07:58 PM

if you need any advice try dandaz

i don't think there's a problem he hasn't solved before

#29 Tom Booth

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Posted 28 January 2008 - 02:59 PM

Helloooo again.

Thought I should update this...

Dads finished the engine bay, well, prepping it ready for the engine and box..

From this....

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To this...

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So, as you can see, the engine bays been totally degreased, stripped, all welds been tidied, had a second battery tray fitted on the nearside, had abit of welding done to the arch, where the panel had split from it, but other then that, its all be cleaned, re sealed/waxed, primed, and sprayed in the origional red. All wiring has been refitted, and the rear apron has been fitted back up, after painting.

And here is the engine and box,

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4 speed 1600 gearbox, should hopefully give a ocmfortable cruising speed of about 60...

Engine...

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Twin port 1600, o a single solex, wantign to keep it nice an origional :wub:

Had to import a gearbox mount from america for it, no one in britain stocks them aparently :wub: Had some trouble with the clutch too, He thought a 215mm clutch would fit it, but it was to big and will soon have a 200mm clutch for it.

I think next up will be painting the tin ware, cleaning the engine up, and fitting it back in with the standard airbox.

Watch this space!

Edit: I think he's also buying some driveshaft kits for it, with all the joints an boots etc. Should'nt be to long before the engine is in!

Edited by Tom Booth, 28 January 2008 - 03:00 PM.


#30 Bungle

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Posted 28 January 2008 - 05:55 PM

while the engine is out check the fuel tank breathers and replace all the linkages on the gear selector rod




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