

Project Golden Balls.
#241
Posted 03 May 2012 - 10:59 AM

#242
Posted 03 May 2012 - 11:00 AM
#243
Posted 06 May 2012 - 12:58 PM
SirD had a 50 mile run last week on the work commute and while the dash would make a set of maracas seem positively soothing, the wheels are out of balance above 50MPH from tightening up bearings and ball joints the during the rebuild. Not known them to quite so shaky before but I've found nothing untoward on the drive train.
The rest of the presents are arriving Tuesday with any luck, hopefully a more complete looking Knighty thereafter. Stay tuned.
#244
Posted 09 May 2012 - 08:48 PM
Bought half of Autoglym's stock:

Also this arriving tomorrow:

Finally for SirD's leathers, I've been recommended this to go on after they are cleaned:

Going to have a bash tomorrow to see how the leather turns out. Watch this plaice.

#245
Posted 10 May 2012 - 09:06 AM
The AG wax is nice, it's one of my favourites.
#246
Posted 10 May 2012 - 10:21 AM
Sir D's currently in the tyre shop getting his balancing and tracking redone, as the weather decided not to be crap today. Arranged for his coachlines to be fitted on Thursday next week as well, then the charger point goes in on Saturday. Then at some point between all that I need to clean and polish him.
Edited by nev_payne, 10 May 2012 - 10:22 AM.
#247
Posted 10 May 2012 - 11:10 AM

#248
Posted 10 May 2012 - 05:39 PM
#249
Posted 10 May 2012 - 08:25 PM
It is so satisfying when things turn out alright.Just got back from the work run, tyre shop sorted the earthquake - general balancing on all wheels was needed, and a slight tracking adjustment (undoubtedly from taking the engine out and reseating the drivetrain). Result was a baby-smooth drive home.
#250
Posted 10 May 2012 - 10:37 PM

As it's slightly longer I've looped it forward, resting on the bell housing. Engine starts much faster now and appears to be far less laggy:

Getting it out however was not fun.
- Remove engine relay
- Remove ECU and fusable link bracket
- Remove idler breather hoses
- Unbolt, swear at and threaten bellhousing breather casing.
- With right hand bent upwards holding a spanner, underneath the brake servo (entering from where the ECU would be), secure the stabiliser bolt.
- Left hand loosens from above.
- Wrestle the engine-side bolt round the breather case.
- Loose phone down the engine bay into an oil drip tray.
- Replace cable, reverse process, adding swearing and talk of how Genghis Khan had less trouble taking entire empires compared to this engine bay where neccesary.
Edited by nev_payne, 10 May 2012 - 10:39 PM.
#251
Posted 11 May 2012 - 01:35 PM
The box:

The controller unit:

The temperature sensor:

The status LED:


Tidying pack with rocking-horse rare dash sticker:

Rover manual complete with aged staples:

Here's how it works:
- When the ignition is "ON", the green LED will light up for several seconds and show the unit is active. If the sensor is damaged the red light shows instead.
- Above 5°C the LED will show Green.
- At 2°C the LED will show both Red and Green.
- At 0°C and below, the LED will show Red.
Now the issue I have is this kit was designed with a 4-fuse fusebox at the back of the engine bay - something I lack. It effectively takes from the ignition fuse as the live feed then uses the ground on the old fuse boxes as earth:

Will be interesting one to install. That said, the manual suggests drilling an 8mm hole in the dash. Heh... that's not going to happen.
Edited by nev_payne, 11 May 2012 - 01:38 PM.
#252
Posted 11 May 2012 - 01:38 PM
#253
Posted 11 May 2012 - 01:41 PM
#254
Posted 11 May 2012 - 01:41 PM

#255
Posted 11 May 2012 - 01:42 PM
Says that when the red LED comes on, a disgruntled Brummi will stick his head out of the bonnet yelling, "It's flippin' cold in 'ere mayyyyte".
Edited by nev_payne, 11 May 2012 - 01:43 PM.
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