86 replies to this topic

[Ethel]

Perhaps I could have been a little clearer too. I've only really been referring to the under arch shots. It does look like the front subframe mounting has torn (bolt through the front panel pics). This would put a bit more load on the tower rubber I've mentioned 'n if it's due to an impact that could have destroyed the tower rubber or even distorted the shell where it fixes. As Sprocket says, a biffed knuckle joint could also be in the equation and has a magnified effect because of the lever effect of the top arm. Yours does look to be in decent knick, but we can't really tell from a photo. Measure the bumpstop gap on both sides .


As if you haven't got enough options already, uneven rear suspension would also effect the front - like a table with a wonky leg, the opposite leg comes off the floor.

[karl & his cooper]

Perhaps I could have been a little clearer too. I've only really been referring to the under arch shots. It does look like the front subframe mounting has torn (bolt through the front panel pics). This would put a bit more load on the tower rubber I've mentioned 'n if it's due to an impact that could have destroyed the tower rubber or even distorted the shell where it fixes. As Sprocket says, a biffed knuckle joint could also be in the equation and has a magnified effect because of the lever effect of the top arm. Yours does look to be in decent knick, but we can't really tell from a photo. Measure the bumpstop gap on both sides .


As if you haven't got enough options already, uneven rear suspension would also effect the front - like a table with a wonky leg, the opposite leg comes off the floor.

Will go out now, knuckle joints sweet as a nut had that all apart yesterday when I stripped the dropped side to replace a cone.

Pic of the old and new cone! looks wrong! http://i250.photobuc...08/100_0235.jpg

[karl & his cooper]

Ok pretty much pointless measuring the distance to the bumstop gap as on the dropped side its almost touching the upper arm! the other side can get more than my fist through.

the rear wheels....can get a fist over tyre\under arch on the side where there is no drop.
cannot get a fist through the other on the dropped side...

[Ethel]

Sounds like the cone, trumpet and/or knuckle joint then.

You can eliminate the rear from the equation by jacking up the front by the sump (bit of wood as a spreader) 'n turning it in to a 3 legger, that should level out the back if all's well.

[karl & his cooper]

Sounds like the cone, trumpet and/or knuckle joint then.

You can eliminate the rear from the equation by jacking up the front by the sump (bit of wood as a spreader) 'n turning it in to a 3 legger, that should level out the back if all's well.

The back levels out! ) After its jacked the suspenions about where it should be. As soon as I push on the wing it goes down straight away!?

[THE ANORAK]

Sounds like the cone, trumpet and/or knuckle joint then.

would have to agree with this, there is definitely a big difference there and it seem to simply be "ride height" not body work bent.

as the cone, trumpet and knuckle are the things that set the height, i guess that's where the problem will be.

your going to have to take it apart again and check the bits and the seat area of the cone. also, check that there is the rubber mount between the bottom of the baulk head and the top of the sub frame, you can see this from the engine bay.

for what its worth, the other side looks about right for a new cone

[THE ANORAK]

right, open your bonnet and look in this area....



but obviously on the other side of the car. this is right under the big bolt that you had to take out to compress the cone.

there should be a rubber wedge between he bottom of the baulk head and the top of the sub frame. if this fell out when you had the bolt out it "may" give the result that you have.

if not, time to take it apart again

[karl & his cooper]

Sounds like the cone, trumpet and/or knuckle joint then.

would have to agree with this, there is definitely a big difference there and it seem to simply be "ride height" not body work bent.

as the cone, trumpet and knuckle are the things that set the height, i guess that's where the problem will be.

your going to have to take it apart again and check the bits and the seat area of the cone. also, check that there is the rubber mount between the bottom of the baulk head and the top of the sub frame, you can see this from the engine bay.

for what its worth, the other side looks about right for a new cone

Ok, Ill do this from 6pm when it cools down a bit! I will take photos for you of the components.

Thankyou for your help so far!

[karl & his cooper]

right, open your bonnet and look in this area....



but obviously on the other side of the car. this is right under the big bolt that you had to take out to compress the cone.

there should be a rubber wedge between he bottom of the baulk head and the top of the sub frame. if this fell out when you had the bolt out it "may" give the result that you have.

if not, time to take it apart again

Im assuming you want me to take that big bolt and and look as I cant see through metal lol

[THE ANORAK]

you should be able to see the rubber by just looking in the engine bay

[karl & his cooper]

you should be able to see the rubber by just looking in the engine bay

will look & take photo!

[THE ANORAK]

should look like this, you can the rubber....



look under the break servo.

if the rubbers not there, it could be the problem. it that's the case you just need to take out the bolt and slip a new one in.

[karl & his cooper]

Hi Anorak!

http://i250.photobuc...08/100_0248.jpg
http://i250.photobuc...08/100_0250.jpg
http://i250.photobuc...08/100_0251.jpg

What do you think!?

[karl & his cooper]

the rubbers are there just not in line like yours!

[THE ANORAK]

yeah, it's there, just spun around which is common.

think your going to have to take it apart then

Edited by THE ANORAK, 27 July 2008 - 05:28 PM.