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#1 davefitz

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 07:37 AM

Hi all,

Big fan of TMF so much fantastic info and some incredible builds here! Not much of a typist but will try, I think this might be more of a visual build diary then anything but happy to chat with anyone.

 

This car started as 1000HL that I bought when I was 16, Im now 37! I did a bit of a restoration the first time round which took me years as I have no garage so was dependent on friends lending me space. The usual rusted areas sills, doors, around rear windows etc. The car was used through college and I had a 1130cc small bore engine that I built while working in an engine builders. 12g295 ported head, fiat flat top lightweight pistons.

 

This was the engine after running for a few years before I sold it on. It obviously got a good clean but was still pretty good.

 

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#2 davefitz

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 07:53 AM

I then decided to purchase an MED 1430 and through that in. Loads of torque quite wheel spinny on 10 wheels. Although the car was never set up right. So then last summer I saw a dreaded rust bubble or two and got at it with a screwdriver. 20 years out of last paint job was pretty good I thought for an outdooor car. I still have no garage. 4 hours later, before I knew what had happened I had stripped the car to a bare shell again! yikes! Decided I wasnt into the white with British racing green roof any more and wanted something more like this:

 

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I always liked the idea of a sleeper style mini, something that looked very standard but drove well and was quick. In hindsight now if I could go back I would have kept the car original, creamy colour, tartan seats and vinyl roof etc, even though it probably wasnt the best of the mini models it would have been nice to just have really original car. But as i have butchered the sh*t out of it it will always be anything but original. Would have been great to start with an earlyer car or Mk3 cooper S or something before putting so much cash into it but hey, whatya gonna do! So my thinking now is to go for the other end of the scale, something with a bit of stand out and character. I love this darker than original Britax cooper look! think it really pops and maybe that's more in keeping with the minis character!


Edited by davefitz, 01 June 2016 - 04:22 PM.


#3 davefitz

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 08:13 AM

So here is where I am now:

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Lots of blowing holes at the beginning!!! Use a piece of copper behind now to absorb the heat, and try to put in less heat in the first place!

 

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#4 davefitz

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 08:19 AM

Added in these seat belt plates also just in case this is more of a road car. Dont think it will ever be daily driver though. I would want to decide really.

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Plates for SD roll cage all lined up and welded in.

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Not the tastiest of welding but getting better.

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#5 davefitz

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 08:24 AM

Onto the roll over Jig rotisserie I made thanks to plans on TMF! :)

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And we're off!



#6 davefitz

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 08:30 AM

Mistake to put waxoil under the car and in the wheel arches last time, box sections only this time.



#7 ckneller321

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 01:39 PM

Looks like you've made a cracking start



#8 davefitz

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 02:55 PM

Quick check to see what pitting is like underneath the floors: its not bad. but a good few bits to patch up.

 

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I put a little too much heat again into this and need to learn to be a bit more patient. Stitch welding technique is also vital for areas like this as opposed to running a few seams as i should have done here.

 

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#9 davefitz

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 03:15 PM

Close up all the bloody holes in bulkhead:

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new patch in wiper mount hole and re-cut half the hole.

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#10 davefitz

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 03:37 PM

So main objective is to try and get even longer this time out of the paint job 15-20 years as an outdoor car with not a whole lot of mileage on it was pretty good rust wise. I cant remember what product I used for undercoating last time but it was like gravitex under a different brand name and I only used a light coating of it. This time round Im going with rustbusters full arsenal of products.

http://www.rust.co.uk/

I'm pretty excited to see how it holds up as I have read good things. I know POR15 have had siilar products on the market but feel good about my choice here. So it will be CUSTOM EPOXY 421 and Epoxy Mastic 121 for underside, wheel arches, and possibly boot floor and maybe inside floor also? depending on how smooth I can get it to spray. I bought a few gun setups so will have to play around. 1.8 tip and thinned down to 15% I believe is correct.

 

I have started stripping paint now which is extremely satisfying, again rustbusters paint stripper is working a treat, cant seem to find it on their site anymore.

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#11 davefitz

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 03:52 PM

All bare metal is being etched with PHOS-KLEEN B Phosphoric acid based surface treatment. Which is working great. I have no ties with Rustbuster just happy to share my experience here with there products to date, which have all worked very well.

 

I have found the trick with this product is to apply with a red scotchbright and give it lots of scrubbing without letting it pool too much. I leave it on overnight and then the next day go over it once again but this time after loosening it all up, clean it off with paint prep or water. I could leave it on until painting time and then go over it again just before, but so far the etched finish it has left has kept the metal totally rust free. If it is left on to dry and not washed or rubbed off while still wet it needs to be sanded down or de-nibbed to remove any of the residue left behind. The only thing that will chemically move it again is to use more on it to loosen it and then rub it down with paint prep or water and dry it off. Car is booked in for media blasting next month so this will keep it nicely until then.

 

Few patches in boot floor/rear seat, would have been nicer to have replaced whole panel really but once sound deadeing goes back on here you wont see these patches:

 

 

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#12 davefitz

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 03:58 PM

Decided the battery box needed replacing and as I didnt have time to order a new one I just made this up. Not as neat as new one but its 1.2mm steel and I put a whack in it from inside the drain hole with a socket so as any water will flow out.

 

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Stitch welding proves to be much better, cleaner with much less heat!

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#13 davefitz

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 04:15 PM

Few new other patch sections inner door post and passenger floor until we are rot free!!

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After welds have been ground down and metal has been beat back into shape and etched its hard to see repair which is good.

 

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Took off any hangy bits off the bottom like fuel line tabs, will run everything inside in stainless braided hoses.

 

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This should now blast up nice and clean with hopefully no holes and minimal pitting.

 

Need to weld up all these access holes next to avoid any moisture in the car Ive ordered a load of M6 x 25 washers to use here rather than trying to cut all the disks by hand:

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Again beating out a few bits here to get them flat and blasting should leave it nice after that.

 

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All good in front arch except for all that waxoil which I really need to clean and should have steamed cleaned the shell to start! Ill get it with silicone and grease remover and then some strong detergent, dont want to blast all that sh*t everywhere into the steel.

 

Rear subfame should blast up ok also:

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#14 davefitz

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 04:30 PM

Anyone got any ideas on how I might stop media going into the sills during blasting? I know I will be blowing it out but there is frickin waxoil in there and thought the media might stick to it and stay in there? and then what happens???? If only I could pressure wash with thinners. bottle brush  and silicone grease remover maybe?



#15 Archived2

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 04:50 PM

Try using soda as your blast media.
Will just rinse out. Then add more waxoyl.





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