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1380 Bayside Blue :)

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#16 dyshipfakta

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 01:49 PM

Get new donuts mate. Maltese roads some of them aren't great and the donuts will soak up the bumps much better.

#17 johnR

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 05:24 PM

Good project shaping up here.

For safety Nyloc nuts should only be used once especially in critical locations.

JohnR



#18 johnR

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 05:31 PM

Also, in answer to your question about soundproofing mat I would say yes, put in as much as you can afford! I didn't want unsightly foam on my shiny, newly painted bulkhead so put plenty behind it to compensate.

Even put some on the heater air direction plate to cure an annoying rattle from there in some positions.

JohnR



#19 ryan13mt

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Posted 27 June 2016 - 06:37 AM

So quite disappointing today after trying to fit the front subframe. It won't fit :( we tried everything apart from bending either the subby or the body to make them fit. Here are some photos showing the gaps and differences in locations. 

 

We managed to get the 4 top mount bolts in place and the rear ones that connect to the floor panel but the ones that connect under the grille have like an inch difference.

 

13530751_10155046670530550_1974801091_n.

 

Below is where the problem is. Too much distance to be able to wiggle a bolt through.

13530342_10155046670560550_512327520_n.j

 

13552704_10155046670585550_821773533_n.j

 

Below shows that on the left side it's nearly touching the front panel and on the right my finger can go through the gap.

13480273_10155046670605550_47876866_n.jp

 

13565425_10155046670610550_1318796197_n.

 

13553194_10155046670635550_101010864_n.j

 

 

The subframe was re-inforced by welding panels to make it stronger since it will hold a 1380 engine. Im thinking the welding actually bent the subframe.

 

I was thinking i should measure the subframe before buying a second hand one to replace it.

 

What do you guys think? Having that much gap and discrepancy is not normal right?

 



#20 dyshipfakta

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Posted 27 June 2016 - 07:09 AM

More likely that the front panel is out I think. Try to get tower bolts and toe boards in and go from there. Front end may be abit wonky. Chances are wings and front panel will have been replaced perhaps with pattern parts

Edited by dyshipfakta, 27 June 2016 - 07:11 AM.


#21 ryan13mt

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Posted 27 June 2016 - 07:36 AM

Those pictures are showing the subframe with the tower bolts and toe boards connected to the subframe. There is no way in hell i can manage to connect the front mounts like this.



#22 ryan13mt

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Posted 27 June 2016 - 08:57 AM

Could this issue happen due to the shell being on boxes? Maybe the body is twisting a bit and not properly aligned?



#23 GraemeC

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Posted 27 June 2016 - 09:16 AM

You look to have the spacer in the wrong place on the tower mounts.  

From memory there should only be the lock plate on top of the cross member, the second piece you have (underneath the lock plate) should be between the subby and the cross member.



#24 ryan13mt

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Posted 27 June 2016 - 09:39 AM

I could not find any guide on where they should go. Moving the spacer between the tower and cross member i think will only make the problem worse since it will drop the subframe lower. 



#25 ryan13mt

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Posted 28 June 2016 - 03:09 PM

Ok so after talking to some people, they mentioned that the teardrop mount needs to go there even if my car is a 74 mk3. I will try it out this evening.


Edited by ryan13mt, 28 June 2016 - 03:10 PM.


#26 ryan13mt

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Posted 29 June 2016 - 07:57 AM

Ok some good news at last! The front subframe was not bent. The body was all alright and it fitted with a lot of persuasion. 

 

13549241_10206793890866991_409639774_o.j

 

Will try to solve the rear subframe issues i had today. 

 

 

Anyone has any diagrams or pictures how to assemble the suspension?



#27 GraemeC

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Posted 29 June 2016 - 05:49 PM

Given the rest of the frame is solid mounted, I would invest in a set of alloy tear drop mounts if you get chance.



#28 ryan13mt

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Posted 29 June 2016 - 06:29 PM

Given the rest of the frame is solid mounted, I would invest in a set of alloy tear drop mounts if you get chance.

I really do not think that is possible since on the driver side we had a really tough time to squeeze the mount in. I don't think an alloy one will really fit unless i skim the surface of the mount a bit.



#29 ryan13mt

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Posted 08 July 2016 - 06:04 AM

So more progress done but no really interesting pictures. The front and rear subframes are now fitted. I ordered a lot of parts from minispares regarding suspension and brake stuff. I have all the major components i just needed some missing things. I also ordered 4 repair kits. 2 for the radius arms and 2 for the upper arms. 

 

So now a question. I want to change the wiring loom to a completely new one. The car come out in 75 and it is i think a Mk3. Which loom should i get? The ones i found where for an 850 or 1000cc engines and for the 1274 cooper S. Since the car will have a 1275 engine from a metro what would be the best fit? The car came with an alternator if that changes anything. I am hoping to fit a electrical fuel pump as well when the time comes since i presume the engine will be needing lots of fuel...



#30 lawrence

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Posted 08 July 2016 - 08:14 AM

Photos arnt working for me buddy. Sounds like an Interesting build so far tho. What was up with those rear subframe holes in the end ?





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