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Kws's Mini 1000

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#61 Chris.Williams

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Posted 10 July 2018 - 11:45 AM

Not sure if you know or not, you are able to reregister the car and reuse the original plate.
Steve from Classic mini spares in Te puke told me.
Beats changing to a new one.

 
Yeah, got that teed up already, so ill be keeping the black plates. Wouldve been pretty disappointed if i had to change to white ones.
And I’m guessing I’ll see you at the nationals in October?

#62 kws

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Posted 10 July 2018 - 08:35 PM

 

 

Not sure if you know or not, you are able to reregister the car and reuse the original plate.
Steve from Classic mini spares in Te puke told me.
Beats changing to a new one.

 
Yeah, got that teed up already, so ill be keeping the black plates. Wouldve been pretty disappointed if i had to change to white ones.
And I’m guessing I’ll see you at the nationals in October?

 

 

Not sure yet. Maybe, since its in my neck of the woods.



#63 Chris.Williams

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Posted 11 July 2018 - 03:54 AM

Not sure if you know or not, you are able to reregister the car and reuse the original plate.
Steve from Classic mini spares in Te puke told me.
Beats changing to a new one.

 
Yeah, got that teed up already, so ill be keeping the black plates. Wouldve been pretty disappointed if i had to change to white ones.
And I’m guessing I’ll see you at the nationals in October?
 
Not sure yet. Maybe, since its in my neck of the woods.
Yeah, that was my way of thinking also.

#64 kws

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 10:38 AM

That's right, I have finally hit maximum working-ness!
 
Obviously if you have been following this project, having everything finally working is quite a large achievement, considering that almost nothing worked when I got the car.
 
The last thing I needed to get working was the reverse lights. Obviously they didn't have bulbs originally, so that situation was easily fixed, but even with bulbs they were a no go.
 
I found the two wires on the firewall a while back, but they went nowhere.
J4912x2760-00043.jpg
 
I then found the disconnected wires that should lead down under the car sitting on the floor under the carpet.
DSC03073.jpg
 
I connected them to the wires on the firewall, plugged a new reverse light switch into them to test, and BAM, reverse lights. Ok, so why was there no switch on the remote housing under the car?
DSC03072.jpg
 
I fed the wires and grommet through the floor and then went under the car to investigate
DSC03075.jpg
 
Well that hole doesn't look like it should
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I undid the two nuts on the inside of the car so I could drop the housing down
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Well I guess that might be why someone tried to bodge a weird setup with microswitches and random wires run front to back and twisted around the reverse light wires in the back... the old switch was broken off in the housing
DSC03095.jpg
 
This is the sort of situation that a screw extractor is perfect for. I grabbed my smallest one, wound it into the switch remains by hand
DSC03096.jpg
 
And then wound it out with a small spanner. Easy. The extractor has a reverse thread, so as you turn it to screw it in more, it bites hard and actually starts to undo the item its being screwed into. Simple but useful.
DSC03097.jpg
 
I wound the new switch into place, and refit the housing to the car. I plugged the switch in, and with the ignition on and the car in reverse gear, I used a spanner from inside the car to slowly wind the switch in until the lights turned on. I adjusted the switch so that the lights would reliably come on and off as the shifter was moved, and then wound in the lock nut to keep it in place.
 
Lights!
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I found the remains of the old switch in the tub of rubbish/old bits that came with the car
DSC03102.jpg
 
It literally took less time to extract the broken off part of the switch and fit the replacement, than it would have done to do the bodge that was in the car when I got it (that didn't work anyway, it wasn't connected to anything!). C'mon people, just do things properly.
 
This was a huge milestone. Now everything electric works. All lights, switches, wipers, washer jets, uhhh... what else is electric in a Mini? Not much, but it all works!


#65 kws

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 11:38 AM

Worn bushes are no fun, and these bushes get a hard time in normal use. My Tie Rod bushes were stuffed and needed replacing.
 
I replaced the actual rods when I first got the car because the original ones were badly bent. At the time I didn't have replacement bushes, they were still in transit, but they arrived shortly after the arms went in. I knew the bushes were bad, so they needed changing.
Removal of the rods is pretty simple. Two nuts and a bolt per rod. The main nut is in the front of the car behind the valance, and the small nut and bolt is attached to the lower arm. This little one is a bit of a pain, as there isn't much space with the brake pipe and CV boot to get the bolt in and out, but it can be done with some patience and care. I used a screwdriver through the bottom of the rod to line the hole up whilst pushing down on the bolt through the top.
DSC03087.jpg
 
With the rod removed, this is the state of my bushes
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Just a bit flat
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This is what the bushes should look like. This is the Minispares uprated kit, with a standard rubber bush on the inside and hardened poly bush on the outside. This makes the handling more predictable under acceleration, whilst still allowing the arm to move slightly under braking, which apparently stops weaving under braking.
DSC03086.jpg
 
Refitting is easy (other than fitting the bolt), just remember to get the bushes in the right order. I also waited to tighten the large nut at the front until there was weight on the front wheels, so that the bushes would be compressed in the state they would normally be in during use.
DSC03088.jpg
 
In terms of results, there is a bit more road feel and vibration through the front, but it feels a lot more stable just driving around now. I haven't tested in anger yet, but I suspect it will help handling. Mine must have let the wheel flop around all over the place before. It's a simple and quick job to do, even if it's just to replace old bushes with standard replacements (but the uprated kit is cheap enough I would recommend it).


#66 Readers14

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 11:54 AM

Just a thought with reference to the tie rod nut & bolt - would it not be better to put the bolt in from the bottom and the nut at the top, to avoid the clearance issue???



#67 kws

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 12:13 PM

This darn car. There is always something that makes me shake my fist in frustration.
 
I'll cut to the chase. I ruined the throttle cable. It sucks, another new one is on the way. I confirmed it by unbolting the bottom of the accelerator pedal and pulling the cable by hand (still attached to the top of the accelerator pedal), sure enough, the binding was there.
 
How did I ruin it? Grounds. The car had chosen to use the throttle cable as a ground for the engine electrical system. Obviously with such a small metal inner cable, this didn't go well and it has damaged the outer lining.
 
But I had a ground from the engine to subframe, what happened?
 
At a quick glance, yes, I had a ground. But wait, what?!
DSC03076.jpg
 
That's not good
DSC03078.jpg
 
The ground IS attached to the bolt, but the bolt is no longer attached to the engine. Looking back through the photos of when I drilled the sump plug, you can see the crack in the plate. 
DSC02742-copy.jpg
 
You can also see its broken before
DSC03079.jpg
 
Could this be due to the very tired old stabiliser mounts I recently replaced? It's a solid piece of steel, it must take a lot of force to break it. If the engine was rocking back and forth from having bad mounts this could have finished it off.
 
I unbolted the ground strap and stuck it straight onto the mounting stud for the plate, on the gearbox.
DSC03081.jpg
 
I don't know if this broke before or after I fitted the extra ground cable, but I suspect before due to the throttle cable damage.
 
Since hooking the ground back up, there has been a noticeable difference in the amount of flickering the headlights do when idling.
 
I have a replacement plate now, so I'll need to get around to fitting that. It's not a hard or big job, just need the time and motivation to do it. I'll be taking some time off working on the Mini to focus on fixing Tess and getting her ready for her WOF inspection which is due.


#68 kws

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 12:14 PM

Just a thought with reference to the tie rod nut & bolt - would it not be better to put the bolt in from the bottom and the nut at the top, to avoid the clearance issue???

 

I did this originally as a quick fix, but figured there must be a reason its fitted from the top down. Only thing i can think of is that if the nut comes loose the bolt could fall out and then its game over?



#69 timmy850

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 09:04 PM


Just a thought with reference to the tie rod nut & bolt - would it not be better to put the bolt in from the bottom and the nut at the top, to avoid the clearance issue???


I did this originally as a quick fix, but figured there must be a reason its fitted from the top down. Only thing i can think of is that if the nut comes loose the bolt could fall out and then its game over?
Yep, it’s a good failsafe to have the bolt through from the top. If it did come out you’d be screwed..

#70 jamesquintin

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Posted 13 July 2018 - 07:12 AM

I've had the tie bar nut come undone, luckily going slowly, it's not fun.

I've also had the lower arm bolt come undone during an emergency stop. Also not fun...





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