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#76 KTS

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Posted 17 June 2020 - 08:59 PM

I cannot think why the factory fitted roller bearings on the front arms as the rotation must be measured in single degrees concentrating the load in a small area,but then I am not an engineer.Nice work.Steve..

 

in theory the load should be shared equally by all the rollers in the bearing,  and there's quite a few in there (i haven't counted), and so spread evenly around the circumference of the shaft.  as long as the hardness of the shaft is comparable to the hardness of the needle rollers it should be ok - if they're not matched though, or not lubricated it'll end badly

 

there's a fair bit more weight on the front end than the back end which may have something to do with the reason why a bronze bush was considered sufficient in the radius arm setup, but then again, i'm no engineer either  ;D

 

cheers !



#77 KTS

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Posted 17 June 2020 - 09:12 PM

still going backwards...

 

cleaned out the overspray from the suspension arm bearing tunnels (is that the correct term?) and found the bores are pretty chewed up; combination of corrosion and what looks like bearings having being ground/drilled out previously.

 

fortunately i have some spare upper arms, and these look to be pretty good, so will need to give them a good clean, paint them up and refit them instead.  the old ones can go into the 'last resort' spares bin

 

lD9PiV7.jpg  



#78 Gilles1000

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Posted 18 June 2020 - 07:19 AM

I have seen that very rough surface in the bore all my upper arms too (I'm at 4 parts disassembled, and 2 further to come...)

 

As long as the area where the needle bearings are pressed in is clean, I think there is no issue. 

 

Just try to assemble the shaft without the bearings, you'll see there's a lot of play in the middle of the arm. It will never go in contact with the shaft, so there is no issue if the bore is rough.

 

More important is to remove the knuckle cups and check if the knuckle has not gone through the nylon cup and polished the cast. That could be problematic after fitting a new cup, there may be not enough support from the casting, the knuckle ball will find it's may again through the nylon cup.



#79 USA-Fin

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Posted 18 June 2020 - 10:33 PM

Great thread! Love the pickup.

I think I'll sell my '74 Mini and one of my Unimogs and buy a pickup project.

Maybe I can swap a Mog for a pickup.


Edited by USA-Fin, 18 June 2020 - 10:33 PM.


#80 KTS

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Posted 21 June 2020 - 07:29 PM

spent most of yesterday working on the hubs.  pulled the bearings out to clean the overspray off them and found that a handful of the rollers have small areas of corrosion on them which is a shame as they haven't really done many miles.  having said that they've been on the car for probably 15years, and haven't moved for over a decade so not too surprising really - i'm pretty sure i've got a set of timken bearings kicking about somewhere so once the bearing grease arrives i'll fit them.

 

spent quite a bit of time removing paint from the inside of one the hubs and checking ball joint shimming - would have been a bit quicker if i'd have torqued the balljoint nuts to the correct figure before knocking the lock tabs in place  :shy:

 

back down the garage this morning to knock out a few dented sections on the front subframe to find the kids had been in there at some point last night with their fathers day treats - not quite the look i was going for, but it's the thought that counts apparently.....  ;D

 

PVqKaTI.jpg

 

 

..so, back the subframe - like most of them, it's suffered from being jacked up on the section directly below the towers, so wanted to get the worst of the bend out of the panel.  stripped out the lower arm assembly to get access...

 

ChFAJKe.jpg

 

block of wood underneath and using another length of timber vertically down through the driveshaft and a club hammer, it's now looking a lot straighter than it was

 

gbF3xsv.jpg

 

..the downside is that it revealed there was a whole load of crud that was missed when the subframe was sand blasted, so need to scrape out what i can, treat with rust converter and then re-paint

 

whilst i had the lower arm assemblies out i thought i'd give them a once over as well.... 

 

JRT1wAf.jpg



#81 KTS

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Posted 27 June 2020 - 03:19 PM

waiting for deliveries to be made, so decided to entertain myself by finding out just how difficult it is to dismantle a speedo and put it back together again.

the speedometer in question came with a centre binnacle i bought a while back and the bezel and outer (shadow?) ring are quite badly corroded, so i wasn't too worried if it didn't work out

having removed the bezel the internals can be released from the speedo housing by undoing the two screws either side of the speedo drive on the back

to separate the dial plates from the main unit means taking the needle off. Before doing that i lined up the needle on the 10kmh marker on the inner dial plate and put some pen marks on the drag plate so i could put the needle back on in the same position

S2K3N7p.jpg

with the needle and inner dial removed, you can now get a better view of the odometer

xOW1GtJ.jpg

the drive arm is connected to the end of the worm drive by a spring clip which can be slid forward to allow the arm and worm drive to be released. the long tension spring is carefully slid over the end of the odometer shaft to release it. obviously you need to keep all this stuff !

tJq91Qb.jpg

next up is the odometer assembly - it's a fairly simple process to dismantle, but there's lots of components packed quite tightly together so some car needs to be taken

remove the nylon circlip washer from the right hand end of the shaft (..the tenths end), and then take off the three legged spring washer followed by the drive wheel (yellow plastic) and then the friction plate (white plastic).

next up is another nylon circlip washer that sits between the odometer wheels and the uprights the shaft sits in - the only way i could get this off was to use a small flat blade screwdriver down the groove in the odometer shaft and lever it off sideways.

once that's removed the shaft can be withdrawn into the odometer barrel 'til it's just clear of the support arm, that end of the odometer rotated clear of the arm, and the shaft pushed back the other way to release the other end. there's a spring and washer at the left hand end (10K wheel end) of the assembly so make sure they don't fly off when it's pulled clear !!

this is what it looks like when it's all disassembled

5ijXi6W.jpg

reassembly, as they say, is the reverse :proud:

i found it easiest to stack the rings starting with the tenths. to re-zero the stack on reassembly a fine allen key can be used to ensure the rings are aligned and to be fair it's hard enough to put it together using the alignment pin, so i'd imagine it would be a real challenge to reassemble at a set mileage

reassembled rings

BNWXAZq.jpg

with spring and washer fitted, the assembly can be re-inserted into the housing - i slid it into place whist it was on the drill bit, and then slid the odometer shaft in afterwards, which meant i had to refit the brass drive washer to the tenths wheel after it was in place. if i was doing it again, i'd fit it on the odometer shaft (i.e. the reverse of how it came out)

odometer assembly in place

q8AELgG.jpg

inner nylon circlip washer in place - make sure this is correctly seated in its groove. if not, the odometer will not work !!

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friction plate on..

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drive plate, sping washer and outer nylon circlip back on

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worm drive and drive arm back on

xOW1GtJ.jpg

last step before refitting was to give the speedo drive a few turns just to make sure it's all working properly

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re-attach the inner dial plate and speedo needle lining it up to the marks made before and refit to the housing

W8H3NJf.jpg


now that i know it can be done, gives me a bit more confidence to have a go at fixing the speedo that came out of the pickup that's stuck at 99,999.9...

Edited by KTS, 27 June 2020 - 03:25 PM.


#82 panky

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Posted 27 June 2020 - 03:30 PM

A little tip to set the position of the needle. There's a little mark by the high beam warning light, push the needle on so it lines up with the mark and then flip it back over the needle stop. This should give you the correct tension on the spring - as long as everything else is in the same position that is.



#83 KTS

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Posted 27 June 2020 - 05:12 PM

A little tip to set the position of the needle. There's a little mark by the high beam warning light, push the needle on so it lines up with the mark and then flip it back over the needle stop. This should give you the correct tension on the spring - as long as everything else is in the same position that is.

 

:proud:  cheers Panky; i'd never even noticed that mark before.

 

a top tip indeed !

 

lIN3F5F.jpg


Edited by KTS, 27 June 2020 - 05:14 PM.


#84 KTS

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Posted 12 July 2020 - 09:46 PM

not a huge amount of progress going on at the moment.

 

managed to get the front suspension components repainted and have refitted them to the subframe.  just need to fit the new bearings to the hubs and they can all go back on.

 

when top arms back together again i noticed once of the knuckle joint boots was starting to go - another example of poor quality replacement parts. probably only been on the car for a year or so

 

xPUuNHf.jpg

 

Solved that particular problem by refitting the old ones that came off the car - god alone knows how old they are, but they're not perished or split and doubtless will last far longer than anything the usual suppliers will provide

 

ak915dj.jpg

 

have spent some time over the last couple of weeks putting together a housing for the additional dash gauges and electrics.  after many hours of planning, drilling and filing, it's starting to take shape...

 

OqD0Gxx.jpg



#85 KTS

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Posted 26 July 2020 - 11:44 AM

instrument cluster together now.  push-pull switches don't really go, so i'll be swapping them out for something a little more discrete.  Hopefully the dash liners i ordered will turn up in the not too distant future so i can check it all fits 

 

8fU6pUk.jpg

 

finally managed to complete the rebuild of the hubs using the bearings and CV joints i'd found in my spares stash (originally bought to upgrade the GTM coupe back end to discs from drums)

 

20year old cv joints + a bit of KAD for good measure

 

Su4LCa8.jpg

 

rebuilt hubs with new bearings, ready to refit

 

jYwOmX2.jpg

 

..and then it all went a bit pear shaped

 

refitted the subframe to the car, and then refitted the hubs to the suspension arms without any problems, then went to fit the cv's and driveflange/disc assemblies

 

drivers side went together no problem, but when it came to the near side, the cv joint wouldn't seat properly in the driveflange.

 

with the cv joints on the bench and the driveflanges dropped on to them it's pretty obvious there's a problem with one side

 

wrgcFHZ.jpg

 

on the plus side, i now know the reason why i had to use a puller to separate one of the hub assemblies previously is because one of the driveflanges i've been supplied is just enough out of tolerance to be an interference fit on the cv joint.  hopefully it'll be a straightforward process to get them to send out a replacement next week



#86 Globule

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Posted 26 July 2020 - 12:40 PM

That binacle has come out well, are you having multiple installed or just decided rpm is more important than speed? :D

What are your engine plans for this? The AFR gauge has peaked my interest now!

#87 KTS

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Posted 26 July 2020 - 05:46 PM

That binacle has come out well, are you having multiple installed or just decided rpm is more important than speed? :D

What are your engine plans for this? The AFR gauge has peaked my interest now!

 

cheers - other than the switches, i'm pretty pleased with the way it's come out.

 

that one is actually smaller than the centre binnacle, and the plan is it will sit in the drivers side dash shelf, with the speedo, temp and oil gauges remaining in the centre binnacle.

 

in terms of engine plans : i've a 1380 short motor that i'm hoping still has some life in it, and that will get a 266 cam and a decent head with an HIF44 carb.  may go for a slightly lightened flywheel assembly, but other than a cross-pin diff, and centre pickup, the gearbox will be fairly standard with a 3.44:1 final drive



#88 KTS

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 07:08 PM

...and back to what seems to be becoming the usual game of one step forward and two steps back..

 

stripped down the radius arms to replace the pivot shaft bearings and replace the grease tubes with metal ones as i suspected one of them had split - nearside one side went fine; bearings pulled, grease tube out.  wasn't split and the radius arm internal cavity was fairly clean

 

stripped down the offside arm, pulled the grease tube out and found the radius arm cavity pretty much filled with grease, but the grease tube was intact which was a bit odd

 

then i noticed this lurking under the grease - appears to be a void in the casting that allows the grease that's pumped in escape into the radius arms cavity.  the bearing itself is a good fit in the radius arm, so i'm tempted to just wash out the grease with solvent and shove a load of chemical metal etc in there to stop the grease escaping and then refit

 

dxQw3Jr.jpg

 

..and this is how much grease i managed to scrape out of the inside of the radius arm

 

ZqlThhU.jpg



#89 timmy850

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 10:25 PM

Wow that’s a lot of grease! I’ve heard of people taking the arms to get powder coated and then don’t realise they are full of old grease..

#90 KTS

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 07:38 PM

..packed out the void with JBweld - hopefully that will keep the grease in the grease tube !

 

Mx8Qj1H.jpg

 

..which meant that i could finally get on and fit these - the reason why I stripped the radius arms in the first place !!

 

QeKsQQ5.jpg 

 

all back together again, with a new set of taper roller hub bearings for good measure

 

H5xah6x.jpg







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