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Getting The Rose Family Mini Back On The Road! (After 5 Years)

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#121 Ben Rose

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Posted 10 September 2019 - 01:34 PM

Nearly there.
The rubber block sits between the wiper motor and the bulkhead I think


Of course - I wonder why it was just lying there. Cheers input.

Edited by Ben Rose, 10 September 2019 - 01:52 PM.


#122 Ben Rose

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Posted 16 September 2019 - 08:30 AM

Just a small update. I've taken the decision to remove the rear sub frame before I go any further and then the engine and front sub frame.
I'm finding small patches of rust in loads of places so I just want a totally bare shell and to start making a list.

Sports pack arches coming off.
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DONT cut any studs off which have rusted using an angle grinder as it melts the arch!! Use a hack saw. I have learnt the hard way.

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Exhaust coming off which was a bit of a bodge and held on with wire..

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Jacked up the body of the car and not the subframe ready for removal. Times like this I wish I had a larger garage.

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Fuel filter coming off..

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More to run tonight.

#123 cooperd70

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Posted 16 September 2019 - 12:18 PM

Great work and well documented Ben. Keep up the good work ???

#124 Ben Rose

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Posted 16 September 2019 - 02:29 PM

Great work and well documented Ben. Keep up the good work

Cheers mate, appreciate it.  :highfive:



#125 Ben Rose

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Posted 19 September 2019 - 02:27 PM

So for the last few evenings I've been trying to get into the garage and for one reason or another not been able to.  When I do get out there I am going to be dropping the rear sub frame.

I'm comfortable with where it needs jacking and disconnecting brakes and fuel lines, shocks etc.

 

My question to all you helpful people out there is if I unbolt the rear most portion of the subframe first (near rear bumper) will this swivel down and then I can unbolt the front portion?

 

Or am I best unbolting it all at the same time and dropping it as one unit?

 

Thanks for your help and apologies for asking such a newbie question!!  :huh:



#126 Junior Mini

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Posted 19 September 2019 - 04:05 PM

Your best unbolting it all together. Undoing the back first will put additonal twist on the already fragile front mounting bolts.



#127 Ben Rose

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Posted 20 September 2019 - 11:55 AM

Managed to get an hour outside last night.  I thought I could get the subframe out but one of the little screws holding the rear nearside brake drum was seized on and I was worried about rounding it off.  I've purchased an impact screwdriver which is due to be delivered today so I am hoping this means I can get it off tonight.
 
So small update but all counts I guess.  Handbrake, Handbrake cable Bonnet release cable, Drivers side shock absorber removed.

Handbrake removal... 
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Bonnet release cable and catch removal...
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Underside of catch
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Catch bracket at bottom of picture removal (I think)
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Gone
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Top of rear offside shock absorber...
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Rear of brake drum..
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Brake hard line removed...
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Handbrake cable being removed...
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Nearside brake drum I am struggling with. Fingers crossed I can get it removed tonight.
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#128 cooperd70

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Posted 20 September 2019 - 05:22 PM

Let's hope that impact driver does the trick?

You put a little penetrating oil on that screw in the meantime to help the impact driver?

#129 Ben Rose

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Posted 20 September 2019 - 08:32 PM

Let's hope that impact driver does the trick?

You put a little penetrating oil on that screw in the meantime to help the impact driver?


Thanks for the input again mate. Really appreciate the advice.

I sprayed loads into and behind it yesterday. Thankfully a few hits on the impact driver and it unscrewed. Phew!

I'll post some more photos but rear sub frame off! Real sense of achievement tonight.

Front suspension next and then engine out.

???

#130 Ben Rose

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Posted 23 September 2019 - 08:35 AM

So I only managed to get an hour in the garage over the weekend but it was a small milestone for me as a complete Novice.  I got the rear subframe out!!!
I did get a small "shock" on the way though.  Lets start with that.

Passenger side rear shock absorber out which I found doesn't match! The car was owned originally by my wifes parents so I am not sure but at some point it must have been replaced. Safe to say I will be getting a matching pair when I come to re-install everything.

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Rear Sub Frame bolts all came off ok.

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One however seemed like the bolt had started to pull through the boot floor OR it had been over tightened when originally fitted? Bottom of next image. I only just managed to get a socket on it.

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Scary thing is it has had a new rear subframe fitted about 6 years ago by a professional which was one of the last things we had done before it went off the road.

Can you tell if it is Heritage or Non Heritage?

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Completely bare rear end! Really pleased. Next is front suspension and engine out!!

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#131 Ben Rose

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Posted 07 October 2019 - 09:41 AM

Not had much time recently to work on the car but I managed to get another hour over the weekend.

Front Suspension being removed.

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Really bad corrosion behind shock absorber.

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This tie bar bold was completely seized.

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Steering Rack Rubber boots falling apart. Seems most rubber parts are going to need replacing.

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Ball joints split really easily, which was nice.

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Time to compress the rubber cone..

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Trumpet removed..

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I'm hoping these might clean-up. Otherwise I will replace with 4 pot callipers.
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#132 cooperd70

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Posted 07 October 2019 - 10:51 AM

I'm hoping these might clean-up. Otherwise I will replace with 4 pot callipers.


I've seen them clean up real nice without too much work. Split them, clean, paint and rebuild with new seals. Depending on how the pistons looks you may want to replace them also.

As for going to 4 pot, don't waste your money unless your thinking of boosting the power of the engine any time soon. Std have plenty of stopping power if all braking components are up to scratch.

Progress is looking good so far Ben. Keep up the good work {and the posts}. Going to have a good rebuild thread on here when you're all done and dusted ??

#133 Ben Rose

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Posted 07 October 2019 - 11:56 AM

 

I'm hoping these might clean-up. Otherwise I will replace with 4 pot callipers.


I've seen them clean up real nice without too much work. Split them, clean, paint and rebuild with new seals. Depending on how the pistons looks you may want to replace them also.

As for going to 4 pot, don't waste your money unless your thinking of boosting the power of the engine any time soon. Std have plenty of stopping power if all braking components are up to scratch.

Progress is looking good so far Ben. Keep up the good work {and the posts}. Going to have a good rebuild thread on here when you're all done and dusted

 


Good advice as always! I'm not looking to boost the power in the short term. I may look to fit the MiniSport Stage 3 Kit taking power to around 90 bhp but that wont happen for a while.
Thanks for you input again, I'm always grateful of input from members.

:highfive: 



#134 Ben Rose

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Posted 22 October 2019 - 12:25 PM

Conscious I've not been updating a lot recently.
I had major issues with the lower ball joint on the drivers side front wheel.  I basically couldnt undo as the bolt was just spinning.  No matter how much pressure I put on the suspension it would still spin.  In the end I decided that the ball joint was probably toast anyway so purchased a nut splitter and got it off that way.

Hub assembly finally removed...
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Nut splitter and Nut. Bolt for ball joint was unmarked as I only had to split one side as the nut started to undo.
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Lower engine steady bar removed...
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Clutch master cylinder being removed...
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Engine mount bolts being undone...
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I noticed access to the rear nut on the engine side is almost impossible. Are there any helpful tips?  :unsure:  :unsure:  :unsure:

Some more bits off before the engine comes out...
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#135 Ben_O

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Posted 22 October 2019 - 05:01 PM

Great!
As for the engine mount bolt, you can get a spanner on it easier with everything out of the way but it can be a struggle.
I always struggle because of my big hands. Sometimes I ask someone with small hands to do it :lol:





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