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Couple Of 1275gt Questions...


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#61 Juju

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Posted 20 February 2009 - 01:13 PM

Nice new brrrm, Chris. :(

Deffo a GT? Deffo not GT colour, but nice nonetheless. :ermm:

I agree about the vinyl roof. Looks aftermarket to me.


It isnt?

It's down as a GT on the logbook, I dont know how else to tell.



Is it white or grey - I can't really tell? I thought it was grey, but white's deffo GT.

You can tell it's authenticity by the commission number on the plate next to the VIN (assuming it's no reshell). Look for "S20D". :thumbsup:


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#62 Jeff R

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Posted 20 February 2009 - 01:15 PM

If it's grey then you're right. I don't recall any grey GT's.

#63 yorkshirechris

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Posted 20 February 2009 - 01:37 PM

Is it white or grey - I can't really tell? I thought it was grey, but white's deffo GT.

You can tell it's authenticity by the commission number on the plate next to the VIN (assuming it's no reshell). Look for "S20D". :ermm:


I will check that out later, thankyou :thumbsup: nah it's not grey it's white :(

#64 yorkshirechris

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Posted 20 February 2009 - 05:14 PM

It hasn't got a red commission plate but it has a plate in the same place with D20S on it? :w00t:

#65 Juju

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Posted 20 February 2009 - 10:56 PM

It hasn't got a red commission plate but it has a plate in the same place with D20S on it? :P



What year is the car supposed to be, Chris?

From my info:

1974 “Model Year” To 1980 “Model Year” – English Built

VIN - The general format for the VIN for these cars is:
X-K2S1N-XXX-A
VIN, First Position (“X” in the above example):
This is simply dismissed by the factory as “non significant”!
VIN, Second Position (“K” in the above example):
= Engine type
A = [Unknown if this was used. If so, it indicated any of the A series engines still in production at that time]
C = 1098cc
E = 1275cc
K = 848cc
L = 998cc
VIN, Third Position (“2S” in the above example):
= Body type
2D: The factory microfiche does not list a designator for the 1275GT. This would imply there wasn’t one; however, it is likely the 2D designator was still used. The microfiche shows 2D used for the 1980 model year. If no designator is listed, the Commission number must be used to identify the 1275GT.
2S = 2-door saloon/sedan. (Except 1275GT) Caution: bureaucratic bungles often interpret this as 25 (twenty-five)
2W = Estate (“2 Door Dual Purpose”)
U = Pick-up. Caution: U and V can be mistaken one for the other.
V = Panel van. Caution: U and V can be mistaken one for the other.
VIN, Fourth Position (“1” in the above example):
1 = Round nose, traditional Mini body style. Includes: Mini 850, Mini 850 City, Mini 850 Special Deluxe, Mini 1000, Van (848cc and 998cc), Mini Special 1098cc, and Pick-up (850cc and 998cc).
2 = Clubman, square nose style. Includes: Clubman Saloon (998cc Automatic and 1098cc Manual), Clubman Estate (998cc Automatic and 1098cc Manual), and 1275GT.
VIN, Fifth Position (“N” in the above example):
N = Special Deluxe (Except for North America). Includes the Mini 850 Special Deluxe, the Mini 1000, and the Mini Special 1098cc.
North America:
A = 1970
B = 1971
C = 1972
D = 1973
E = 1974
F = 1975
G = 1976
H = 1977
J = 1978
L = 1979
VIN, Number positions (“###” in the above example):
= The sequential build number:
Each “type” of car (with one exception) started with number 101; e.g., the first Mini 850 in this range started with 101 as did the first Mini 1000, the first 1275GT, etc.

The factory records list one exception: the export Mini Special 1098cc. The starting number, for some reason, is listed as 1012011
VIN, Last position (“A” in the above example):
= Assembly plant. Officially, “Internal Use Only”
If used at all, this would be “A” for English built cars.
A = Longbridge
COMMISSION NUMBERThe general format for the Commission Number is:
N20S-XXX
Commission Number, First Positions (“N20S” in the above example):
= Car type
20U = Pick-up
20V = Van
20W = Clubman Estate
B20S = Mini City
D20S = Mini 850
J20S = Mini 1100 Special (UK only)
N20S = Mini 1000
S20D = 1275GT
S20S = Clubman
T20S = Mini 850 Super
Commission Number positions (“###” in the above example):
Starting numbers are as follows:
20U = 13205L
20V = 84679L
20W = 77031A
B20S = 101
D20S = 83622L
J20S = 101
N20S = 20531L and 230547A
S20D = 19416A
S20S = 104632A
T20S = 101
Note that there is no listed explanation for the “A” and “L” endings. If these are intended to be the same as used for VIN numbers, the “A” would be Longbridge. Literature has suggested that “L” = Morocco! This has not been confirmed from factory microfiche.


:thumbsup:

#66 yorkshirechris

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 02:53 PM

:P <-- indeed!

It was manufactured in 1980, and registered in Feb 1981... It's down on the logbook as a 1275GT, and definately is a 1275 engine. The plates come back as being a 1275GT, and the engine number and chassis numbers both match the logbook.

I don't have a reason to doubt it being a genuine GT because all the old history dating back to the 80's mentions it as a Mini GT.

However I am still curious now about this D20S number? :thumbsup:

I will make a note of all the numbers plated in the engine bay later and check it against the info you have posted here.

By the way, where did you copy & paste that from?

(edited, sorry misread your question).

Edited by yorkshirechris, 21 February 2009 - 02:55 PM.


#67 GreaseMonkey

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 02:57 PM

What does the plate which you are reading the D.. number off look like?

If its a normal non official looking plate then during a respray the commision plate could have been lost and someone has just made one up going from what the logbook says?

Linky to data

Edited by GreaseMonkey, 21 February 2009 - 02:59 PM.


#68 yorkshirechris

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 03:10 PM

What does the plate which you are reading the D.. number off look like?

If its a normal non official looking plate then during a respray the commision plate could have been lost and someone has just made one up going from what the logbook says?

Linky to data


It's a normal unofficial looking plate, yeah. Just a rectangular piece of metal with the characters stamped into it.

Like I say I have no reason to doubt it's genuine apart from this, everything else that is there should be and everything matches, apart from the front GT badge is missing but spots have been added so it mightve been taken off/lost at that point.

#69 GreaseMonkey

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 03:25 PM

Have you checked the engine number?

#70 GraemeC

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 03:40 PM

Sounds like the body number plate - which usually has little meaning, from memory it will be on the slam panel to the right hand side of the bonnet catch?

#71 GreaseMonkey

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 03:58 PM

Doh!

I forgot about the body number plate

#72 yorkshirechris

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 05:37 PM

Have you checked the engine number?


I have and that matches the logbook.

It might be a body number plate then... I will have to check it out properly tomorrow.

#73 yorkshirechris

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 05:56 PM

It is to the right of the bonnet catch on the slam panel.

Posted Image

"D20S 215835A"

Which makes me more confused... because referring to that list, the S20D starts at "19416A" and the D20S starts at "83622L"

But as mine ends in A it would make sense for it to actually be S20D 215835A and like you say it may have been made up in error an put there on respray.
BUT
Does commission number refer to the actual number of each car which comes off the line?

Because there were only just over 110,000 1275GT's ever made, so the commission number shouldn't go higher than around 130000? (the starting number 19416 plus 110,000)?

Or am I completely lost now :P

Edited by yorkshirechris, 21 February 2009 - 06:02 PM.


#74 GreaseMonkey

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 06:05 PM

That looks like a body number plate to me, from what I know you can't find much from a body number as it was just used for factory records?

#75 GraemeC

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Posted 23 February 2009 - 09:05 AM

Checked my clubby/GT over the weekend - same style of plate with D20S on it :D




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