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#16 xBR4DLEY

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:06 PM

I have a feeling your gonna end up with a mini with no stiffener panels judging by your response to shifty...


Yeah but he hasnt seen my car in person which he would need to do to see how bad it really is not just judge by photos

Edited by xBR4DLEY, 19 October 2009 - 03:07 PM.


#17 Shifty

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:10 PM

I'm gonna make myself even more unpopular now............(makes a change eh??)

The front and rear floors pan you have bought end at either side of the seat crossmember, this leaves a big gap under the seats. If you are going to do this car then it really will have to be done properly or not at all.

Put very simply, you cannot repair this car with the cheapo repair sections, they simply aren't intended for this purpose and are not strong enough. In the event of an accident the consequences simply don't bear thinking about.

The thought of you driving this car around repaired in this fashion fills me with dread.

#18 AdamBilsy

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:14 PM

Just looked at your project thread and I totally Agree with Shifty. I certainly would never want to ride in it. :thumbsup:

#19 crazy skunk

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:20 PM

All you will get on hear my freind is honest answers,
If you ask the question and someone takes the time to answer, Take your time to listen,
You will learn a lot that way.
Have a look through some old threads and you will see that shifty knows his way around a mini.
Be safe :thumbsup:

#20 xBR4DLEY

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:25 PM

So what should I do then buy front to rear floor panels?
thats what I wanted to do but my dad decided to buy the front and backs seperate
Why does this matter?

#21 Shifty

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:29 PM

The panel you need is the full floor panel with the inner and outer sills attached to it already.

Even better would be the complete floor pan.

The panels you've bought are just repair sections and end either side of the crossmember.

This is the 1/2 floor

http://bap.dominohos...b...ent&Ret=ALL

#22 xBR4DLEY

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:31 PM

The panel you need is the full floor panel with the inner and outer sills attached to it already.

Even better would be the complete floor pan.

The panels you've bought are just repair sections and end either side of the crossmember.

This is the 1/2 floor

http://bap.dominohos...b...ent&Ret=ALL


Is that genuine
I will have to show my dad this thread as he wont listen unless I show him
Cheers anyway mate

#23 crazy skunk

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:35 PM

Good luck telling ya dad :thumbsup:

#24 Dan

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:37 PM

The floor under the crossmember forms the fourth side of the box section. If the panel running under it is weak there is no strength in the box, the car would be likely to fold around the box section.

#25 xBR4DLEY

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:40 PM

Could I not put some thick metal under the cross member?

#26 Dan

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:46 PM

Leaving the rusty panel in place? How will you form the thick metal around the tunnel? The floor is originally one solid piece of metal, front to back and sill to sill. Replacing all that with patches until there's nothing of the original left is just ridiculous.

I have just been and looked at your project thread and I have to agree that this shell is shot I'm afraid. How long was it sitting with no sills, badly corroded floors and all its weight on the wheels? How much bracing have you done to this fragile shell before you started cutting out what little strength it had left? I would imagine there is very little chance this car will be the right shape once you have finished, what are you doing to keep all the dimensions and alignments right as you work?

#27 Shifty

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:56 PM

Leaving the rusty panel in place? How will you form the thick metal around the tunnel? The floor is originally one solid piece of metal, front to back and sill to sill. Replacing all that with patches until there's nothing of the original left is just ridiculous.

I have just been and looked at your project thread and I have to agree that this shell is shot I'm afraid. How long was it sitting with no sills, badly corroded floors and all its weight on the wheels? How much bracing have you done to this fragile shell before you started cutting out what little strength it had left? I would imagine there is very little chance this car will be the right shape once you have finished, what are you doing to keep all the dimensions and alignments right as you work?



Thats really what I was trying to say, what you've got there isn't a project for a beginner. In all honesty it is beyond economical repair and not worth saving unless you've got some strong emotional attachment to it?

#28 xBR4DLEY

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 04:05 PM

Leaving the rusty panel in place? How will you form the thick metal around the tunnel? The floor is originally one solid piece of metal, front to back and sill to sill. Replacing all that with patches until there's nothing of the original left is just ridiculous.

I have just been and looked at your project thread and I have to agree that this shell is shot I'm afraid. How long was it sitting with no sills, badly corroded floors and all its weight on the wheels? How much bracing have you done to this fragile shell before you started cutting out what little strength it had left? I would imagine there is very little chance this car will be the right shape once you have finished, what are you doing to keep all the dimensions and alignments right as you work?



Thats really what I was trying to say, what you've got there isn't a project for a beginner. In all honesty it is beyond economical repair and not worth saving unless you've got some strong emotional attachment to it?


OK because you know how good we are ?
And why not?

#29 AdamBilsy

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 04:09 PM

Leaving the rusty panel in place? How will you form the thick metal around the tunnel? The floor is originally one solid piece of metal, front to back and sill to sill. Replacing all that with patches until there's nothing of the original left is just ridiculous.

I have just been and looked at your project thread and I have to agree that this shell is shot I'm afraid. How long was it sitting with no sills, badly corroded floors and all its weight on the wheels? How much bracing have you done to this fragile shell before you started cutting out what little strength it had left? I would imagine there is very little chance this car will be the right shape once you have finished, what are you doing to keep all the dimensions and alignments right as you work?



Thats really what I was trying to say, what you've got there isn't a project for a beginner. In all honesty it is beyond economical repair and not worth saving unless you've got some strong emotional attachment to it?


OK because you know how good we are ?
And why not?


Dont mean to be rude, But looking at the welding in your Project thread It would suggest that you have nowhere near as much experience as shifty, And to repair your car safely it would cost ALOT more than the car is worth, Would be alot more cost effective to buy one that needs less work.

#30 xBR4DLEY

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 04:13 PM

Leaving the rusty panel in place? How will you form the thick metal around the tunnel? The floor is originally one solid piece of metal, front to back and sill to sill. Replacing all that with patches until there's nothing of the original left is just ridiculous.

I have just been and looked at your project thread and I have to agree that this shell is shot I'm afraid. How long was it sitting with no sills, badly corroded floors and all its weight on the wheels? How much bracing have you done to this fragile shell before you started cutting out what little strength it had left? I would imagine there is very little chance this car will be the right shape once you have finished, what are you doing to keep all the dimensions and alignments right as you work?



Thats really what I was trying to say, what you've got there isn't a project for a beginner. In all honesty it is beyond economical repair and not worth saving unless you've got some strong emotional attachment to it?


OK because you know how good we are ?
And why not?


Dont mean to be rude, But looking at the welding in your Project thread It would suggest that you have nowhere near as much experience as shifty, And to repair your car safely it would cost ALOT more than the car is worth, Would be alot more cost effective to buy one that needs less work.



I didnt say I wasnt as good as shifty but shifty has had experience with all kinds of welders and has probably being doing it for a few years?
OK




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