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Florence My '97 Cooper


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#331 bcjames

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 07:50 PM

That's interesting Sean. It didn't come out like that 6 months ago when the sensor was last removed. It seemed to screw in again okay. I'll check the thread in the morning! It's really weak and brittle, whatever it is. Could it have left the factory like that?

#332 MiniLandy

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 07:58 PM

Sounds and looks like a damaged thread to me, I'd give that a closer inspection...

#333 bcjames

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 08:00 PM

Sounds and looks like a damaged thread to me, I'd give that a closer inspection...


More problems then :(

I'll check it over in the morning!

#334 bcjames

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 08:17 PM

Not normal:


Edited by bcjames, 11 February 2012 - 08:25 PM.


#335 bcjames

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 08:46 PM

The video now works, but I missed the edit window. Anyway...

When the throttle closes, the revs drop too low, then catch themselves just before stalling. It does this while driving along in slow traffic, changing down for a junction, or blipping the throttle when stationary.

In that video the engine is running, fully warm after a drive, with the headlights on. I'm only touching the throttle ever so slightly.

Any ideas as to the cause are greatly appreciated :thumbsup:

#336 thebullet

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Posted 12 February 2012 - 12:01 AM

I had drops of oil after changing mine, they were just because I put some oil to seal the oil filter and the old stuff had squeezed out the threads.

#337 Shifty

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Posted 12 February 2012 - 12:05 AM

If the heli-coil has pulled out then thats a PITA. An option could be to wrap it a load of PTFE tape?

#338 bcjames

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Posted 12 February 2012 - 07:45 AM

I had drops of oil after changing mine, they were just because I put some oil to seal the oil filter and the old stuff had squeezed out the threads.


What about drops before my oil change :P I'll have a look in to this today once it warms up a bit in the garage.

If the heli-coil has pulled out then thats a PITA. An option could be to wrap it a load of PTFE tape?


As above, I'll look in to it. It definitely went in okay, I used a spanner to nip it up with no problem. I'll check the extent of any damage to the inlet threads!

I wish I'd left it alone now, it didn't even solve my problem, just created another :P

#339 bcjames

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Posted 12 February 2012 - 05:43 PM

So this mornings job, some more sensor cleaning. Mainly the iacv, to actually remove the whole lot, not the top half.

What an awkward job that is! 4 bolts, wiring loom and clutch hydraulics right in the way!


Posted Image
Idle Air Control Valve by bcjamesmini, on Flickr

The thread in the air temp sensor is a bit crappy, but with some ptfe tape it grips and seals. I'll keep a look out for a replacement manifold.

None of this really made a difference, but...



It's fixed :D for now...



The revs issue in the video is sorted :) I went to see Dave again, make use of his injection knowledge! Anyway, he upped the idle revs, meaning the stepper motor could relax, naturally lowering the revs back to normal, but allowing the engine to cope when electric items were demanding power at idle. It now doesn't feel like it's going to stall at every junction!

Edited by bcjames, 12 February 2012 - 05:57 PM.


#340 bcjames

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 11:09 AM

So, the leak definitely seems to be coming out of the jiggle pin hole. Oh dear!

Some big decisions to make on where/how the engine is pulled out and what else to do while it's out :cry:

#341 Shifty

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 12:20 PM

I like how you're thinking! Turn a negative into a positive!

Supercharger! It's the only sensible thing to do!

#342 bcjames

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 12:23 PM

Yeyyyyy supercharger :lol: I somehow don't think so!

More a +20 rebore or a new 1275 block.


Edit for some good news!

Adjusting the rear brakes has got rid of the odd noise that came from there the other day. I took the drums off too, and all looks well and clean.

I think with the big gearbox and engine issues as of late, I had been somewhat neglecting the routine maintenance.

Edited by bcjames, 13 February 2012 - 12:35 PM.


#343 Ace Alex

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 10:39 PM

Just catching up on this interesting project thread. The Mini looks very tidy considering the grime on the winter roads! The running issues are a nightmare! It's tiresome eliminating problems with Mpi's!!

The low revs can be resolved by adjusting the accelerator cable. (The black nut located on the mounting bracket)

Have you checked the condition of the relay module? This contains 4 main relays, one of them being lambda sensor. If this was faulty the fuel pump and starter relay would not function. This caused a few problems on my previous Mpi. Sometimes the condition of the earthing points can cause havoc if rusted/dirty.

I've experienced a few problems in the past with my Mpi's. It's really annoying!!

I'd also recommend a SUPERCHARGER! :D My 1293 Supercharged Mpi is crazy! The sound is fantastic and the acceleration is canny fast, for a Mini. It makes my standard Rover Mini 40 and '97 Cooper seem really, really, really slow!

So yeah, stick a supercharger on it! :P What little space you currently have in your Mpi engine bay is massive! :huh:


Posted Image



Hope you get it sorted.
Alex.

Edited by Pedal Pusher, 13 February 2012 - 10:40 PM.


#344 bcjames

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 10:45 PM

Haha Alex it's a supercharger in an MPi :D

I did a couple of commutes this afternoon for work and she feels massively better. All the electrics seem to be working (at the moment) so I'm hopeful a rebuild will see her back to a good original spec. As yet I'm still content to pootle around in the Mini in it's slow standard spec :)

I'm now desperately looking for a set of walnut door cappings before I go mad and buy a new set :D

#345 MaxAndPaddy

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 10:53 PM

I saw these today and thought they were fairly priced

3 sets available

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item20c2666cf3




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