655 replies to this topic

[bcjames]

I saw them Steve, they are well priced. Screw holes could easily be added, but how close do the look to genuine ones? Rover ones are basically another zero on the end

[MaxAndPaddy]

I think they look good, maybe a bit paler than our walnut but that could just be the light

It makes me laugh that Max is so rare and so special BUT the walnut door capping are just screwed on! ...with the screw showing!



My brain would say, the postage is cheap, the price is good. If I dont like them I could probably get most of my money back on ebay anyway

[bcjames]

I think I may well get a set. Some double sided sticky tape and decide if I really do like them. I was looking at my doors the other day pondering if I really want to dill holes in my otherwise perfect doors

Anyway, I've not long been back from the pub, so I'm staying away from eBay and anything you say Steve

[MaxAndPaddy]

Ebay is calling youuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu!!!!!!!!!!!!

[nev_payne]

The low revs can be resolved by adjusting the accelerator cable. (The black nut located on the mounting bracket)

I'm not sure where you got that idea from. The black nut (clamped down prior to the TB spring, on the cable itself) is to adjust the tension of the throttle cable so there's no slack before opening the throttle (also in some cases to avoid the cable guard to be resting too much on the rocker cover). Nothing more. The idle adjustment comes from adjusting the bolt physically attached to the throttle body, which denotes where the valve should rest when there's no push on the pedal. This requires diagnostics kitting and sensor wizardry to get right, unlike the carbs.

Could be confusion here but that's how I read your post.

Edited by nev_payne, 13 February 2012 - 11:37 PM.

[bcjames]

As per Oli's post above, it's the little screw hidden on the side of the throttle body where the cable attaches that adjusts the idle. I think the books typically say don't mess with it unless you have Testbook or similar available to do it properly. In adjusting that, the stepper motors reading came down, and balanced it out. It had previously been at the extreme of it's range at idle, with nothing more to give when demand called for it. Increasing the revs via the screw didn't actually result in the idle rpm going up, the rest of the system compensated for it and the whole thing ran more comfortably.

Now I'm starting to get my head around all the sensors and their place in the system, the MPi set up isn't quite so daunting!

[RawlinsGTR]

I'd also recommend a SUPERCHARGER! My 1293 Supercharged Mpi is crazy! The sound is fantastic and the acceleration is canny fast, for a Mini. It makes my standard Rover Mini 40 and '97 Cooper seem really, really, really slow!

So yeah, stick a supercharger on it! What little space you currently have in your Mpi engine bay is massive!

Hope you get it sorted.
Alex.

Sorry to hijack the thread James, but Alex; what supercharger is that you have on there? Is it just the normal M45? Looks a bit different to me :L

And James - been watching this thread for a while. Makes me glad I've got an MPi to be honest, not sure why!!

Edited by Dog., 14 February 2012 - 10:59 AM.

[bcjames]

Because MPis are super brilliant

Alex, who made the expansion tank cover? That's really smart! I'm still impressed theres a supercharger in there, it look tight with all that other stuff!

So, this weeks shopping list looks like...

MPi short engine kit.
Swiftune sw5i
Walnut door cappings
And a big list of gaskets to rebuild an engine.

And a new steering wheel is on it's way soon. Not new new, but better than my one I wrecked when trying to load sheets of 4x2 ply in to the car

[RawlinsGTR]

Yeahhh

You'll have to let me know how the sw5i is. :)

A noob question, but all the less I'm still learning;

What's the difference between a 'short engine' and a normal engine in relation to minis?

Cheers,

Simon.

Edited by Dog., 14 February 2012 - 11:08 AM.

[bcjames]

It's been described to me as feeling much the same as it drives now, but with more pull. Sounds ideal I don't want anything that becomes more awkward to drive every day, and I'm sticking with a 1275 and stock head for now too.

[mini-luke]

Yeahhh

You'll have to let me know how the sw5i is. :)

A noob question, but all the less I'm still learning;

What's the difference between a 'short engine' and a normal engine in relation to minis?

Cheers,

Simon.

A short engine is basically half an engine. Take the gearbox, head and ancillaries off and you'll be left with one.

[bcjames]

Yep, as Mini Luke said, it's the bit between the head and the gearbox. Seen as I have had the gearbox replaced a fortnight ago, and a new cylinder head a couple of months back, it would be like having a brand new production line engine

[nev_payne]

Yep, as Mini Luke said, it's the bit between the head and the gearbox. Seen as I have had the gearbox replaced a fortnight ago, and a new cylinder head a couple of months back, it would be like having a brand new production line engine

So... a lot of breaking in, sub-3000 rpm miles and a ridiculous oil change schedule then?

[mini-luke]

Yep, as Mini Luke said, it's the bit between the head and the gearbox. Seen as I have had the gearbox replaced a fortnight ago, and a new cylinder head a couple of months back, it would be like having a brand new production line engine

So... a lot of breaking in, sub-3000 rpm miles and a ridiculous oil change schedule then?

Depends on who you listen to I suppose!

[Shifty]

Is this what you are looking to buy?

http://www.minispare...id=38568&title=