217 replies to this topic

[jameslearwood]

The timing plate going on

[jameslearwood]

i carried out the dot to dot but then you have to take the sprockets off to put the chain on so how do you keep the cam timed as you will get some degree of movement then lining the sprockets back up again with the chain is a pain?




Any how i read the yellow bible and carried out a DTI timing...

getting the piston TDC


protractor zero'd


set the DTI up on push rod 1 (second hole in from water pump end)


which gave me a max lift of 106


i then took it back 10thou and then forwards to 3thou before max lift and got 95.5


then carried on forwards until i got past max lift by 3thou and got a reading of 119

[jameslearwood]

using the calculation 119+95.5= 214.5 divided by 2 = 107.25


so after some playing then 3 final attempts i got the following readings

Max lift 108.5, ATDC 108
Max lift 106, ATDC 107.25
Max lift 110.5, ATDC 105.75

Taken the last one as an anomalie?
Is this okay?
any feedback would be great i cant find/figure out which cam i should be looking at or what figure in the yellow bible can anyone direct me to the right section please?

[AndyMiniMad.]

So its timed at 107.25 ATDC...thats about right...Dot to Dot..Well done...

[jameslearwood]

Cheers Andy so is that advanced or dead on going to have another read of the bible to see if I can figure it out I see the benefit if the vernier wish I got that one but dot to dot happy days

[AndyMiniMad.]

If you grab the cam sprocket and wiggle it back and fore, you can move it around 2 deg if not a bit more...this is due to the chain stretching...a lot of advice on here is to set the timing 2 deg off in order to compensate for this..In my opinion yours is timed perfectly..

[jameslearwood]

Shown Below is the OE 1275 A+ sprite/injection(50hp) cam.
It has 2 x 1/8" raised rings between lobes 7 & 8.


Checking height: 0.017" @ lobe

Timing: (Intake): 9/41 (Exhaust): 44/6

Nominal lobe lift: (Intake): 0.235" (Exhaust): 0.235"

Duration (Intake): 230 (Exhaust): 230

Lobe centre angle (Intake): 106 (Exhaust): 109

Lobe separation angle: 107.5

Lift on overlap: 0.025"

Accuracy: Very Good

Based on this photo i think this is the one

[jameslearwood]

So the lobe separation angle is what I should be timing to which as stated above is 107.5 if you don't have this info then you should have cam timing figures in my case 9 41 44 6 so 9 is the how many degrees before TDC the inlet opens 41 how many degrees after BDC it closes the second two is the same for the exhaust.

So by calculating the duration of cycles you can calculate the lobe you need to add 180 according to the bible

Intake 9+41+180 = 230 exhaust 44+6+180 = 230
To calculate the full open position you need half the total and minus the the first intake number 115 - 9= 106 the exhaust is the same but using the last number 115-6= 109 then add these together and divide by 2 109+106=215/2 = 107.5.
So need to do a few more measurements to ensure its correct as I'm not 100% on the above
From page 316 in the yellow bible
Starting to understand it now just not sure if it is worth advancing the cam slightly?

[jameslearwood]

Just spoke with Uncle cooperman in Techie thread reckons rover cams should be 110 so mine is dead on carried out several more measurements and got 107 every time so I can finish the build tomorrow night.
Flywheel has been lapped and the water pump Installed used RTV on the gasket to stop any leaks getting close

[jameslearwood]

Foaming with myself i delayed the build last week as i thought i was missing the countersunk screws for the duplex timing chain, only to later find out they were inside the pack all along and now im having to place another order, which will delay me a few days as i thought i had the clutch oil seal with the gasket set.
I know it clearly says it doesnt come with it, but i thought it was the timing cover seal that was missing so i have two of them oh well.
Will work on other bits for now just hope i've got the rest covered sick of wasting money on p+p, will probably have another prder when it comes to fitting the engine into the car, going to clean up the engine bay too

[jameslearwood]

Red seal going on does it look okay

flywheel all torqued up with a new clutch plate fitted torqued all the pressure plate bolts upto 18lbs

[jameslearwood]

The Clutch

the release bearing reassembled

going in

popped the o ring back in.

all lubed up with copper grease

[jameslearwood]

Lost track of where i last posted to now but it is all coming along nicely just the ancillary components to fit and the engine bay to clean up will post piccies as i go, hit a few snags like i expected silly bits i didnt take photos of and not 100% on their install.
These are their techie threads.

http://www.theminifo...ting-the-dizzy/

http://www.theminifo...__fromsearch__1

http://www.theminifo...e-fan-and-belt/

[AndyMiniMad.]

If you strip your rockers down you can fit a couple of washers next to the posts..this will move the rocker pads to a more central position on the valve stem and decrease the side loads...Dont do this if your rocker pads have wear marks in them though..You can just about make them out in this picture...



Ive been watching this build and its been great..loads of good tips and some great pictures..Well done!!

Edited by AndyMiniMad., 10 April 2012 - 03:13 PM.

[jameslearwood]

Cheers andy.

I thought it was if they were new rockers or something must of read it wrong. Does this have any benefit or is it just to reduce wear? and where did you get the washers from?