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Lenny - To Stance, Or To Track?


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#1 iTomKart

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 10:14 PM

Flickr Album of it finished: http://www.flickr.co...th/11237755713/

 

 

 

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Been on the forum for a while now, just quietly watching what's going on and thought it was about time to show you all our project - Lenny the 1275 track car

All the work will be carried out by me and my dad in the garage, mainly to teach me how to restore/modify a car i.e welding, spraying, filling etc, and how the car works. The aim is to get it fit for hill climbs by the time it gets to summer!

This is how it looked when we picked it up:

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After fitting 12x6's and group 5 arches and driving it around like that for a bit, the time finally came to begin the rebuild. So, once I was home from college I parked it on the drive and began the strip-down:

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We then rolled it into the garage knowing that it wouldn't be coming back out for a few months, which was sad but I knew it would be perfect once it finally returned to the world ;)

Once we'd got it in the garage we stripped back the paint where bubbles were forming, mainly under the windscreen, below the doors and on the front valance. Once these were treated, we poked around in the boot only to find a hole in the floor which needed sorting out. We ground out the hole/patch of rust, cut a piece of steel to fit and welded it in, ground down the welds and job's a good'n! No pictures cause I forgot sorry :/

As we were around the bumper area and had the welder out, it seemed like a good time to get de-bumpering! After much deliberation over what type of bumpers to run on the finished car, we eventually decided that no bumpers at all would be best for a clean, racey look so got to work grinding off the rusty lips and welding up the seems. We found that grind a bit, weld a bit was the best tactic and stopped the valances from falling off like in some of the horror stories I've heard about!

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Once we'd skimmed these with filler we went about fitting a sportex 3" cat-back exhaust (which tucks nicely up against the rear valance and doesn't stick out too far) and started the engine for the first time in about 8 months. Sounds like an absolute beast! Really deep note with some nice rumbling on tick over, well worth the money. Once a lack-of-fuel problem was sorted (put a bit of fuel directly into the carb to get the engine turning over and clear the fuel pipes of air bubbles) the engine started straight away! (see the exhaust above ^^^)

So this is where we are now, lots more to come and we'll keep you updated as it happens!

Oh and I lost my wheel arches somewhere along the line! No idea where they’ve gone, it’s taught me to be more organised and in control instead of the bull in a china shop approach :P

The spec:

Engine:
Standard 1275cc four-cylinder carb A series; 3" side-exit Sportex exhaust; K&N performance air filter

Chassis:
12x6" Minilites with 165/60R12 Falken tyres; Lowered on hi-los all round; GAZ adjustable shocks all round (lowered-length); -1.5o front negative camber arms; -1.5o rear negative camber brackets; New strengthened genuine rear subframe; Front polybushes; Heavy duty tie-rods;

Exterior:
Full respray in Maranello Red; De-bumpered front and rear; Mk1 bonnet conversion; Debadged bonnet; Mk1 grille; Clear indicators; Group 5 fibreglass wheel arches; Wiper holes deleted; Single-seater (Formula Ford) door mirrors; Opening rear-quarter window conversion; Full red rear light lenses; Smoothed and debadged boot; Number plate light housing deleted (replaced with number plate bolt lights); Pressed plates; Fog light relocated to behind centre of rear valance


Interior:
Full respray in Maranello Red; stripped of all carpet and sound-deadening; Rear seats removed; Cobra Monaco S bucket seats; Securon 3" 4-point harnesses; Safety Devices roll cage with diagonal bar; Carbon fibre wrapped dash board; Deep dish steering wheel; Fire extinguisher bolted to passenger footwell; Re-routed wiring through silicon hoses along floor; Engine start/ignition button/switch; 2x6" speakers; Sparco gear knob; Comic strip door cards; Stickerbomb'd rear view mirror, speedo housing and stereo surround

Debumpered front and back
Mk1 bonnet and grille
Smoothed boot lid
Lowered on Gaz adjustable shocks
Stripped interior – remove back seats, floor mats and carpets
Racing seats and harnesses (FIA approved) – Cobra Monaco S seats, Securon 3" harnesses
3" side exit exhaust
Deep dish quick release steering wheel
Door cards wrapped in comic-strip, carbon fibre dash and parcel shelf
Safety devices roll cage
Sticker bombed details
Sigle seater carbon fibre mirrors
All red rear lights and clear indicators and side repeaters

13x8" or 10x7" wheels (still undecided)
Bigger brakes (4 pots)
Engine mods - VTEC, bike-engined or tune the A-series (turbo?)? Still not sure
LED headlight conversion

Basically completely track it!

More coming soon, Tom

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Edited by iTomKart, 06 December 2013 - 03:33 PM.


#2 iTomKart

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 10:58 PM

When we first got it:
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Strip down begins:
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How it is now:
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#3 iTomKart

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 11:31 PM

Bought a carb at bingley to mess around with and learn about, rebuilding it this weekend

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Edited by iTomKart, 10 March 2012 - 11:39 PM.


#4 madboy

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 11:36 PM

on those front wings/front panel i would grind it out a bit more till the pitting was gone, if its weak and gone throughwhere it is rotten, i would replace them ,as it will only come back sooner rather than later, looks like a good project by the way ;D

#5 iTomKart

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 12:10 AM

Funny you should say that, I did that about a month ago and left it as bare metal so the rust came back to haunt me! We'll be getting rid of all the rust just before priming, cheers for the advice :)

#6 Lsantos78

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 12:46 AM

You should apply some primer after grinding, even if you didn´t the end the grind job... it stops the rust to come back again.... and avoid from doing the same job twice :)

By the way I'm also building my race car.... and I can say Enjoy! its a lot of fun!! :)

Edited by Lsantos78, 11 March 2012 - 12:47 AM.


#7 iTomKart

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Posted 12 March 2012 - 03:48 PM

Got my quick release steering wheel, sneaky peak ;) :

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#8 iTomKart

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Posted 24 March 2012 - 11:19 PM

Just a quick shot of our set-up, thought we'd treat lenny to a 'double bed' if you like ;)

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Peekaboo!

More updates tomorrow,

Tom

#9 iTomKart

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 11:49 AM

Quick post to give more of an idea of what the car looks like at the moment:

Interior:
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Haven't even driven it yet and I'm already on my 3rd set of seats!
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FIA approved Safety Devices roll cage:
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GAZ adjustable lowered shocks:
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New steering wheel:
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In the process of smoothing the bootlid (which needs some more welding) and deleting unused wiper holes:
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New exhaust mmmmm:
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More coming soon...

Tom

#10 danny1

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 12:01 PM

this is looking good , look forward to further updates :)

#11 iTomKart

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 09:01 PM

Weekend update:
I was working this weekend so dad cracked on with some filling on the front valance and doors which are all nearly finished for spraying now and feeling smoooth. The only other thing holding up painting is the roll cage as ideally the mounting brackets need to be welded in before we spray, so we got to work trial fitting the cage this evening (it's a bit of a squeeze to say the least, and the rear feet don't sit where they should so we'll need to use brute force to eventually bolt and weld it where it needs to be)

No pictures of the filling cause it's pretty ugly at the moment and I'm sure you all know what filler looks like, so I'll show you just before we paint it

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Rear feet don't sit on the arch properly:
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And some pics to show off how solid she is ;)

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A bit dusty, filler gets everywhere...

More updates soon!

Tom

#12 iTomKart

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 09:11 PM

Been working on the mini this week inbetween revising for exams (which I'm pooing myself about), and dad's done a lot in the evenings after he's home from work so there's been some progress.

Firstly I decided to smooth the holes in the bonnet where the badge had been by filling them with weld, but every time I went to grind the weld back it just fell off! I was scratching my head for long enough to give up, then realised I hadn't turned the CO2 supply on the welder on :whistling:. Gave myself some time to overcome the embarassment, then swiftly moved on to another job.

Meanwhile Dad cut out the rear bins (looks pretty neat :proud:), welded in the front plates for the roll cage and got that lined up, and solved the mystery of the too-narrow-rear-legs! (shoved a block of wood between them)

I've been busy as well, wrapped the dashboard in carbon-fibre vinyl and some old stickers, not bad for a £2.99 job! Oh and I stickerbombed the rear view mirror and sun visors :)

Anyway enough talking; PICTURES!

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It fits!!:
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Dashboard:
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Mirror:
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Sunvisors:
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Total spend this week: £2.99. And that's how to modify on a budget ;)

More to come soon...

Tom

#13 Lewis-142

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 09:31 PM

Looks good tomm... I need to buy myself a cage now they look **** hot maan! welding can commence once my sheet of metal is here and my mask arrives shud be soon!

#14 jonny f

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 11:37 AM

Looks good! Where did you get the snap off hub from? Or is it a weld on one?

#15 danny1

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 11:45 AM

im glad im not the only one who had an issue with fitting there rear cage when i put mine in my rear legs didnt sit any were near were they should of, i had to do pritty much the same thing as you.

cars looking good though :)




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