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Roller Painting With Hammerite


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#61 craig 1010cc

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Posted 20 July 2012 - 08:32 AM

How good is the finish close up?


Its not bad, some bits (80% of the shell) I have got a really nice smooth finish, and a couple of bits the finish isn't so good, but that was down to bad tecnique by me, made worse beacuse it was a roasting hot day when I did the 1st coat.
(its covered in sorage dust at the mo, should be clean again in a week or 2 so I grab some pic's then).

Sanding wise, every other coat is what I read, and for the 1st 2 coats I would def go with that (to get the coverage), but I would then adjust that on how bad/good your orange peel is. I would prob knock back any oragne peel/ imperfections between coats if your going for a mirror finish

#62 Big Man

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Posted 20 July 2012 - 10:14 AM

I have just re sanded down my bonnet and sprayed it in hi buid primer. Will flatten and smooth and start doing it properly less haste more prep if you knwo what I mean.

My major concern is flatting and polisihing. I can get the panel to a gloss finish BUT it will have imerfections...so I flat back with 1200? 1500? or 2000? then buff with G3 ? and it will all be nice and shiney? I have read the polising guide BUT will it work on gloss paint. Does it work on Rustoleum and hammerite if so it should work in gloss.

This is the only bit that im hesitant about....I know the more coats i put the better as less chance of cutting throught the paint.

Cheers

BM

#63 Skortchio

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Posted 20 July 2012 - 10:38 AM

The main unknown with dulux would be curing time, from reading about rolling they advise to leave marine paints and rusto a good few weeks before polishing. I assume because of the thicker coats to allow time for the paint to fully cure.

I'd probably skip the 1500 upwards for the sake of testing. 1200 and g3 should give a solid idea what can be achieved.

#64 Big Man

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Posted 20 July 2012 - 12:30 PM

Past the testing stage,.....at the need convincing stage lol ... will prob paint it hi gloss black and got loads of other stuff to do so could easily leave it a couple of weeks to cure

#65 Skortchio

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Posted 20 July 2012 - 12:40 PM

That's the part I'll find hard, I hate not finishing a job once I'm started!
I think for me the rusto / dulux choice will come down to who can match the colour i want best.
I'll probably roller the first coats then spray the finish, mostly to minimise orange peel and counter the urge to polish too soon! Haha!


#66 Big Man

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 09:24 PM

Apparenly Dulux if you go to their trade centre can mix "Any Colour" in gloss at £18 a litre (same as high gloss Black)

Decided I will go down the roller paint route as it wil put a lot more paint on, less messy and wont have to mask loads of stuff. if it works okay in the mini then I will be doing a colour change on the triumph!

One thing i noticed that I cut through the paint to the primer very easily when sprayed, yet did not when rollered so thats a given as far as im concerned.

OK.....Brushes for the fine work..what brushes will not lose the bristles in the paint...looking at maybe artist brushes or similar...or maybe foam pads? Not that I have seen any foam pads.

Today..... sanded down my bonnett after three coats of filler primer with 400g detail sander then a quick rub over by hand with 400g.

#67 Skortchio

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 10:18 AM

Yep, been along to Dulux as it happens and they said "bring us something the right colour and we'll have a go" now I just have to find something that colour! >_<

As for brushes, I happen to have just bought some of these:

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1497.l2649

So far i've only used one and it's managed 4 seperate coatings plus cleaning with celly thinners and is holding up fine, which I think is good value!

I was going to wait on the final results but as we have a warm week I might just go for it. The car is a daily (supposedly) but I can do without a couple of days and the end job won't be any worse than the factory paint :lol:

#68 Big Man

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 10:08 PM

Thnaks for the link re the pads - now purchased.

Dillema time - Local Dulux Trade centre do GLIDDEN aand DULUX trade paints. Both do the colours that I want (not sure between RAL2004 RAL 2008)

Anyone had any experiance with GLIDDEN Gloss. As its only £13 Litre as opposed to £18 for Dulux....or am i just being a tight northerner!!

Quite lucky as Mini is in garage.. will try to do it perfect and if it comes even halfway close i will be happy. Car is in High build primer with a few gloss black patchesd where I have been practicing!

Skortchio what colour are you going for and what are yiou painting at the minute?

Cheers

BM

Edited by Big Man, 22 July 2012 - 10:11 PM.


#69 Skortchio

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 10:17 PM

Tough choice on the manufacturers, what does the RAL dictate? If it doesn't appear to be a clear advantage I'd stick to what you know, even if it's £5 more! :D

Currently, I'm painting a grill - all the parts, headlight rings, mirrors and rear light surrounds. I was going to powdercoat them but had the enamel paint there and thought sod it!

For the car I'm going 2 tone, black and the same blue that Terry's chocolate orange boxes are. It's damn near Ford imperial blue, close as colourblind me can tell >_<

#70 Big Man

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 10:33 PM

No idea what ral stands for but its a colour chart that is used accross most paint manufacturers. Sure sombody will let us know!

Good choice on the colour...Im going black roof the rest in orange as think Black may be a tad difficult to do the whole car in as its quite unforgiving. if you goodle RAL colour charts there is good choice.

Cheers

BM

#71 jeebz

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 11:30 PM

RAL is just a way to standardise paint colours so people could match them. Thats what I thought anyway....

I've been following this topic for a while, hoping to learn from you guys, but I've caught up with you now so I don't really know what I should do next?

#72 Skortchio

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Posted 22 July 2012 - 11:36 PM

Teach us! :lol:

Give us your insights and tips, so we can hone this technique down! :highfive:

#73 jeebz

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Posted 23 July 2012 - 07:07 PM

I'm not sure how much use I will be for insights but ill see if i can help. Spend the day putting up a gazebo on the drive and primering the outside of the shell. Now Ive ran out of primer and ive still got the doors, the inside, and half a bonnet to do. I wasn't sure if primering was even nessacery for painting hammerite, but i thought i would do it anyway and at least it will give me something to help build up the layers to try and flatten it out a bit. unfortunately there is no point in buying more primer now and finishing the job because I go on holiday in the morning and won't be able to do much. i had hoped to finish painting it by the time I went, but i guess thats the nature of all projects, longer than you think.

#74 1984mini25

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Posted 23 July 2012 - 08:39 PM

For the green one (there is a tread or two kicking around) I used normal gloss dulux with no thinners. Just roll it onto the car as best you can with as few a marks as possible (ie don't overload the roller) and just leave it. As while it dries most if not all of the bubbles and orange peal disappears, you just have to trust it and leave it to dry.

#75 Big Man

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Posted 24 July 2012 - 03:39 PM

I tried using a gloss and it had a bit of orange peel.....when I get the orange dulux Hi Gloss (not the non drip !!!!) I may give a test panel a go.

1984 Mini 25 How did you manage polising wise? How did you do it?

Cheers

BM




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