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Brushing car paint?


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#46 myco90

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Posted 17 December 2009 - 12:52 AM

May be a bit of a weird question but:

Can automotive paint, not 2 pack (ppg) be applied using a brush? I'm going to be doing some art on the bootlid, and will be using a brush for some bits. I don't mind if all the paint isn't perfectly smooth but I will try to keep it as thin as possible, then will flat it out and probably laquer the entire thing.

Like I'm said, I'm looking for an answer whether it will stay on the car or flake off etc, rather than whether it will give a perfect finish :(

Cheers


Yes, celly can be applied with a brush. Thinned 1:1 and applied in THIN coats you will need 30 coats, yes 30 coats over a visible substrate, flash off time is at least 15min between coats so you're looking at well over a day painting. All substrates must be perfectly flat...i mean mirror FLAT I can't over stress this point so don't start your 30 coats until you're 110% happy you are starting on a mirror surface. Leave at least 24hours to dry, then cloursand using a sanding backing pad and 2000 grit wet or dry paper to take out the brush marks and other nibs. Buff to a high gloss shine with rubbing compound then some T-Cut and a good quality wax to seal off.

Cellulose paint is extremely durable so provided you've prepared your surfaces correctly and are willing to aftercare your paint in the months to come then no, it shouldn't flake off and you'll have a decent finish that I've seen outlive most cars I've painted with cellulose.

If you are new to this, I would always advise to start by practicing on an old scrap piece of sheet steel before you attack your pride and joy with the brush! Certainly until you're confident at using the products and have mastered the techniques needed. Brush painting with celly is pretty difficult to master and requires a lot of patience to get it right so be prepared for a lot of trial and error if this is your first time. And I'm not sure if this method would work with the artwork you have mentioned anyway?? so yes definately, practice on something OFF the car to start with!!

Good luck with the project anyway.

#47 Bungle

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Posted 17 December 2009 - 07:43 AM

date of topic Mar 17 2006, 03:09 PM


i would of though how ever he applyed the paint it's dry by now

#48 joshoconnor1

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Posted 17 December 2009 - 07:55 PM

so can u get a decent gloss finish with this method? i dont mind giving it a good few coats or flatting back and that eh and are the people who have used this method happy with the result?

Edited by joshoconnor1, 17 December 2009 - 08:02 PM.


#49 Bungle

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Posted 17 December 2009 - 10:14 PM

you can with a roller

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#50 Joloke08

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Posted 17 December 2009 - 10:20 PM

May be a bit of a weird question but:

Can automotive paint, not 2 pack (ppg) be applied using a brush? I'm going to be doing some art on the bootlid, and will be using a brush for some bits. I don't mind if all the paint isn't perfectly smooth but I will try to keep it as thin as possible, then will flat it out and probably laquer the entire thing.

Like I'm said, I'm looking for an answer whether it will stay on the car or flake off etc, rather than whether it will give a perfect finish :thumbsup:

Cheers


Yes, celly can be applied with a brush. Thinned 1:1 and applied in THIN coats you will need 30 coats, yes 30 coats over a visible substrate, flash off time is at least 15min between coats so you're looking at well over a day painting. All substrates must be perfectly flat...i mean mirror FLAT I can't over stress this point so don't start your 30 coats until you're 110% happy you are starting on a mirror surface. Leave at least 24hours to dry, then cloursand using a sanding backing pad and 2000 grit wet or dry paper to take out the brush marks and other nibs. Buff to a high gloss shine with rubbing compound then some T-Cut and a good quality wax to seal off.

Cellulose paint is extremely durable so provided you've prepared your surfaces correctly and are willing to aftercare your paint in the months to come then no, it shouldn't flake off and you'll have a decent finish that I've seen outlive most cars I've painted with cellulose.

If you are new to this, I would always advise to start by practicing on an old scrap piece of sheet steel before you attack your pride and joy with the brush! Certainly until you're confident at using the products and have mastered the techniques needed. Brush painting with celly is pretty difficult to master and requires a lot of patience to get it right so be prepared for a lot of trial and error if this is your first time. And I'm not sure if this method would work with the artwork you have mentioned anyway?? so yes definately, practice on something OFF the car to start with!!

Good luck with the project anyway.


As much as im only learning myself i sprayed the doors,A panels,and front panel on Boris with celulose aerosol cans and got a fantastic result by laying on thin coats about 5 or 6 coats then flatting with 2000 wet n dry then compounding with farecla :thumbsup:

So i can see no reason why you cannot do the same laying it on with a brush :P

But 30 coats !!!!!
I think that is excessive!!!

Id personally get a scrap boot lid or something and experiment,i agree you should build it up in several thin layers but seriously 30 layers????
Nomatter how much its thined down id guess applied by brush its going to be thicker than applied with a gun?

You wouldnt apply 30 coats with a gun so why with a brush?
i think anybody wanting to try should find out for themselves how many coats are needed in order to flat it back and compound,i think you would need a chisel to flat celly back if you brush painted on 30 coats :genius:
not 2000 wet n dry :)

Edited by Joloke08, 17 December 2009 - 10:23 PM.


#51 luiji89

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Posted 17 December 2009 - 10:36 PM

you can with a roller

Posted Image

bungle i really like this!, when you did it did you rolelr the lacquer too?
also do you lacquer then sand back or sand then bufff then lacquer

cheers

#52 Bungle

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Posted 17 December 2009 - 10:50 PM

you don't need lacquer on top of rustoleum

there are more pictures and info on my project topic

#53 luiji89

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Posted 17 December 2009 - 10:55 PM

is it rustoleum or 2k that lets off bad fumes?

cheers

#54 Bungle

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Posted 18 December 2009 - 08:15 AM

2 pack

#55 sonikk4

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Posted 18 December 2009 - 10:01 PM

is it rustoleum or 2k that lets off bad fumes?

cheers


Those bad fumes are cyanide based, really nasty so forced air breathing mask needed when using 2 pack.

#56 luiji89

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Posted 18 December 2009 - 10:04 PM

cheers, im going to roller next year when the weather is warmer :)
once i have rollerd it with rustoleum seeingas i dont need lacquer do i still rub it down or just apply a rubbing compound?

Edited by luiji89, 18 December 2009 - 10:05 PM.


#57 olds_kool_lews

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Posted 18 December 2009 - 10:29 PM

ive roller painted a mini afew years ago with exterior gloss paint, found the colour i wanted, went to b&Q and got 1 litre of gloss mixed up to match the colour i wanted, and used a small gloss roller (dense foam) n it came out really well! just make sure you prep well or it'll look pants lol

#58 tomdale86

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Posted 19 December 2009 - 03:03 PM

just to clarify these posts a bit, as this is interesting to me!:

when your sanded back whatever top coat you have at the moment (if any), do you go to bare metal or to primer? i think i read one thing about not using primer with rustoleum and one about using it. presumeably if no primer better, your painting on bare metal.

then thin the paint out, as much as you can to get it on, gradually getting thicker as you apply more coats.

sand between every 2 coats, gradually reducing grade of wet n dry

cutting compound after final top coat.

then no laquer (wouldnt this protect it?), but lots of waxing.

#59 myco90

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Posted 21 December 2009 - 07:01 PM

May be a bit of a weird question but:

Can automotive paint, not 2 pack (ppg) be applied using a brush? I'm going to be doing some art on the bootlid, and will be using a brush for some bits. I don't mind if all the paint isn't perfectly smooth but I will try to keep it as thin as possible, then will flat it out and probably laquer the entire thing.

Like I'm said, I'm looking for an answer whether it will stay on the car or flake off etc, rather than whether it will give a perfect finish :wub:

Cheers


Yes, celly can be applied with a brush. Thinned 1:1 and applied in THIN coats you will need 30 coats, yes 30 coats over a visible substrate, flash off time is at least 15min between coats so you're looking at well over a day painting. All substrates must be perfectly flat...i mean mirror FLAT I can't over stress this point so don't start your 30 coats until you're 110% happy you are starting on a mirror surface. Leave at least 24hours to dry, then cloursand using a sanding backing pad and 2000 grit wet or dry paper to take out the brush marks and other nibs. Buff to a high gloss shine with rubbing compound then some T-Cut and a good quality wax to seal off.

Cellulose paint is extremely durable so provided you've prepared your surfaces correctly and are willing to aftercare your paint in the months to come then no, it shouldn't flake off and you'll have a decent finish that I've seen outlive most cars I've painted with cellulose.

If you are new to this, I would always advise to start by practicing on an old scrap piece of sheet steel before you attack your pride and joy with the brush! Certainly until you're confident at using the products and have mastered the techniques needed. Brush painting with celly is pretty difficult to master and requires a lot of patience to get it right so be prepared for a lot of trial and error if this is your first time. And I'm not sure if this method would work with the artwork you have mentioned anyway?? so yes definately, practice on something OFF the car to start with!!

Good luck with the project anyway.


As much as im only learning myself i sprayed the doors,A panels,and front panel on Boris with celulose aerosol cans and got a fantastic result by laying on thin coats about 5 or 6 coats then flatting with 2000 wet n dry then compounding with farecla :thumbsup:

So i can see no reason why you cannot do the same laying it on with a brush :wub:

But 30 coats !!!!!
I think that is excessive!!!

Id personally get a scrap boot lid or something and experiment,i agree you should build it up in several thin layers but seriously 30 layers????
Nomatter how much its thined down id guess applied by brush its going to be thicker than applied with a gun?

You wouldnt apply 30 coats with a gun so why with a brush?
i think anybody wanting to try should find out for themselves how many coats are needed in order to flat it back and compound,i think you would need a chisel to flat celly back if you brush painted on 30 coats :xmas:
not 2000 wet n dry :thumbsup:

Yep, does seem at lot I agree, but paint is paint and that's how it behaves by brush NOT gun!! it's 'lab' tested i assure you, try it for yourself on that scrap washing machine panel you've have lying around in the garage for months and you'll see!! We only find out these things by actually DOING the jobs and experimenting after all. But again, if you're a newbie definately practice OFF any car especially if it's not yours! lol, . good luck and perhaps post your results once you're through painting, i'm always open to new hints and tips especially from anyone who has physically DONE the job first as opposed to just writing about it. cheersears.


Below are a couple of pictures of one I made earlier! Celly, 30 coats, brushed on. Enjoy.

Attached Files


Edited by myco90, 21 December 2009 - 10:32 PM.


#60 me madjoe 90

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Posted 21 December 2009 - 07:11 PM

I know for a fact that Hammerite smooth silver is a pain in the A55 to brush on evenly without brush marks

As I tried using it for my engine bay, gave up and used spray cans instead


heat gun or hair dryer smoves it out but hast to be only just painted. I paint abit and then heat it up with heat gun then paint abit and so on......




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