
No Oil, No Water, Down On Power, Lots Of Smoke, Engine Running On...help
#46
Posted 10 March 2013 - 08:49 PM
#47
Posted 10 March 2013 - 08:50 PM
I'll see what I can do
#48
Posted 10 March 2013 - 08:51 PM
Slightly off topic but there are 3 gauges I always fit 1 Oli presure 2 Temperature 3 Volt Meter, at a glance you get all the important information needed.
#49
Posted 10 March 2013 - 09:06 PM
#50
Posted 10 March 2013 - 09:17 PM
#51
Posted 10 March 2013 - 09:19 PM
i good quantity of 10w40 is what you need
And this will cure the fellas problems? Please explain how.
#52
Posted 10 March 2013 - 09:22 PM
I probably have a 998 crank which may not need re-grinding if that helps. Let me know if you are interested and I'll look it out and check it..
#53
Posted 11 March 2013 - 07:58 AM
Lad down the road will part with the engine for £150, its a 998 but had a lot if work done as it runs 54bhp (I think) at the wheels
Cheers for the generous offers but if the worst has happened then an engine swap will be my route, time isnt on my side unfortunately with regards to a strip down
#54
Posted 11 March 2013 - 08:18 AM


#55
Posted 11 March 2013 - 08:19 AM
Can you hear it running before you buy it?Hi guys
Lad down the road will part with the engine for £150, its a 998 but had a lot if work done as it runs 54bhp (I think) at the wheels
Cheers for the generous offers but if the worst has happened then an engine swap will be my route, time isnt on my side unfortunately with regards to a strip down
#56
Posted 11 March 2013 - 09:06 AM
I'll do oil pressure test then compression test... See what happens
#57
Posted 11 March 2013 - 11:29 AM
A complete engine and transmission swap is the best bet, and the quickest thing to do anyway, and cheaper than any attempt at patching up the old one. Keep the old one for rebuilding as time and money permits.
#58
Posted 11 March 2013 - 11:47 AM
One thing which seems to have been largely overlooked is that the oil level did not suddenly drop to zero, it must have been getting lower over a period of time, so significant mileage will have been covered with inadequate gearbox lubrication, which relies on splash from the gears dipping in the oil, and largely fails before the pump stops sucking up oil for the engine. I seriously expect that the transmission is trashed, as the engine certainly will be.
A complete engine and transmission swap is the best bet, and the quickest thing to do anyway, and cheaper than any attempt at patching up the old one. Keep the old one for rebuilding as time and money permits.
Reverse gear was worse saturday anyway and was crunching more than usual...
Probably best thing isn't it tiger? Save time and money anyway...
Shall I bother with a oil pressure check or just engine swap?
#59
Posted 11 March 2013 - 01:33 PM
#60
Posted 11 March 2013 - 01:59 PM
Fact: If the oil warning light was on while you were driving it, you were doing damage to the crank/bearings. A compression check won't tell you anything about this. Refill with oil and water, attach a proper oil pressure gauge and see what the oil pressure is like with it running checking also for rattles and knocks. If the oil pressure is poor or the engine sounds like a machine gun then don't bother with the compression check as it will need a bottom end rebuild at the least anyway. If the oil pressure is good then its worth doing the checks others have suggested.
do this first, at least you will have an idea of whats going on. chances are its knackered and will need re building but what a bummer if you find its not knackered for the sake of some oil and time
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