61 replies to this topic

[Petrol]

Hi Pete,

Then under the back seat, a pair of Alpine SW-1200 8" subs (http://www.alpine.co...oxes45/swe-1200).

Sorted. Had a similar system in the C2s, a Saxo, a 205GTi etc and works really well and doesn't mess up boot space with huge sub boxes.

Just a thought....

Cheers

Ian

 

Hi Ian, I like like the look of those Alpine subs but why fit 2?

 

Cheers Pete

[Ruckus]

Your formatting went a bit wrong there.

But why 2? 8" subs simply don't move enough air, you need at least 2 to get some bass going really.

Two 8's will be similar to a single 12, but they won't drop as well but should be tighter and more controlled.

Edited by Ruckus, 29 April 2013 - 09:46 AM.

[iwatkins]

What he said.

A single is quite small and you tend to find you need to drive it hard to get bass levels matching the mid and high frequencies. With a pair you can drive them less hard giving more control.

You could try one and if enough for you then don't bother with two. But if you are yanking carpet, suggest you put in the wiring for a second.

Cheers

Ian

[Petrol]

Please put the Gennys at the front.

Please amp the fronts, mini are so small you do not need amped rear speakers (if rears at all!).

Thanks ever so much for the replies first of all.

 

Gennys will be fitted up front but I am struggling to find an amp. I always get outbid on Genesis amps, guess my budget isn't big enough. If I had the wonga, I would buy new but can't afford that. There also seems to be a few that have problems, are they unreliable? What's second best to drive the Genesis speakers?

 

My first thought was to fit the tweeters in the dash but I would prefer them to be in the top rail. Has anyone cut this? Seems like it might be a bit difficult as it's a sandwich of steel, foam and vinyl.

 

I need to fill the holes in the rear parcel shelf with speakers, the original ones look a mess. A set of budget ones will do, anyone any recommendations?

 

I also need cables for this lot, I have seen them on ebay and don't want to make the same mistake as I did with "the loudest" amp. I am looking for help and advice on this one too.

 

I am not looking for the full monte just a good, quality sound system. Just to add, I am thinking of lining the car with a bit of dynamat to help thinks a bit

 

Thanks for looking and as always, thank you very much for your help

 

Pete

[Skortchio]

Couple of thoughts for ya before I retire for the night. :)

 

Rear shelf - don't bother with speakers still and get a parcel shelf board (or make one) covered in the same colour fabric as your carpet. No holes.

 

Cables, you'll be hard pressed to notice a difference between a known brand amp wiring kit and the "super duper mega expensive copper mined by virgins and licked before assembly in loops of dragon hair" versions, at anything but SQ levels. 8awg will be more than sufficient for your needs.

 

There's a P4 amp and a P2 on eBay at the moment ending in a couple of days. The P4 has a snapped ground lug but that's an easy fix or let Gordon do it for you for a small fee. In good working order I'd expect it to go for about £100 so with a fault maybe £60-70.

The P2 has limited scope so that might sell around the same price but of course doesn't give you a channel free for a sub.

 

Can't really help with alternatives, I didn't have to research much because I got the Gennys by luck really quick.

[iwatkins]

Hi Pete,

As for the parcel shelf. Get a bit of hardboard or thin MDF and make a board. Bit of 6mm scrim foam, contact spray glue down then cover with vinyl. Neat, smart and cheap way to hide the mess. Stick down with sticky back Velcro of foam double sided tape to avoid rattles. No need for speakers then

Up front, if you want to put the tweeters in the top rail cover, then get an appropriate size hole saw and simple cut straight through in one go. The steel of the cover isn't that thick. But do note, the tweeters will have to be fairly close to the front edge, I.e. to the drivers edge to avoid the fixed rail underneath when you refit it. All depends on the size. A tweeter here will work well as the angle will reflect the highs off the windscreen to your ears. Tidy. If not, consider a mini pod to hold the tweeters that is affixed to the top rail cover for direct sound as close to the windscreen edge as you can. Not as neat though.

As for cables, I would say don't scrimp, but at the same time don't get sucked in with sales pitch. When it comes to power for amps and subs, ensure the right gauge. But bear in mind, the quality of your connections will be way more important than the "oxygen content" or "anti-clockwise, Coriolis force reflecting, bypass" capabilities of the cable. For interconnects, just get one just long enough to connect the head unit to the amp. Speaker cable, a quality bell cable is usually just as good as the £15 a metre super-doper-neon-green-nitrogen-purged stuff you can get. Your best bet? One I always recommend?

Get a ball of string. Then using that measure all the cable runs you need, be they interconnects, speaker cables or power cables. Add another metre or so for slack and connectors. Make a list. Then walk into your local car stereo fitting place and just tell them what you need. They will tend to sort you out if you tell them what you are planning.

Cheers

Ian

Edit, er, Snap!

Edited by iwatkins, 03 May 2013 - 11:17 PM.

[Petrol]

Update, fitted the tweeters. The dash top rail is curved so I clamped them to avoid any gaps, then I used Sikaflex to glue them in.

 

 

Also bought a Genesis profile 4 amp.

 

It's all a bit beyond me this ICE so I am just taking your advice and want to say thanks very much for your help!

 

best

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

[Skortchio]

Congrats on the amp, dude! You will not be disappointed

 

Just noticed your mention of using some dynamat. It is a good idea, sort of.

 

Much like painting, a good install is all in the preparation. Which means stopping all the other 'cute' mini noises so that you can enjoy your audio.

There are a lot of very good products available for a vast range of prices. If you go the full hog up to and including mass loaded vinyl you'll have a car that's like a merc to sit in but will struggle to get up hills as that stuff is 10kg/m²!

 

Silent coat is a good alternative to dynamat, a bit cheaper I think and comes in bulk packs.

 

If you're on a tight budget then there's also alternative options that you might not consider normally.

Helpful guide here:

http://www.theminifo...nd-dirty-guide/

[Ruckus]

Those tweeters should be mounted as far left and right as possible.. .

[Skortchio]

Those tweeters should be mounted as far left and right as possible.. .

 

I didn't want to say after he'd chopped holes in his dash rail

[Twincam]

Those tweeters should be mounted as far left and right as possible.. .

 
I didn't want to say after he'd chopped holes in his dash rail

Forgive me for being a little slow, but is that purely to aid in the reflection if the sound coming out of them? (I see tweeter installed in the edges of the doors/window screens in more modern cars)

[Ruckus]

Its about sound stage

 

Right speaker should be (if possible) on the out side of the right ear, and the left on the out side of the left ear.

In fact the speaker should be as wide as possible.

 

otherwise the stereo will not sound very stereo ... think about it.  

 

[blueturbomini]

I have my tweeters in the door where it meets the window, just above the doorhandle, i think they sound pretty good

[Twincam]

Its about sound stage

 

Right speaker should be (if possible) on the out side of the right ear, and the left on the out side of the left ear.

In fact the speaker should be as wide as possible.

 

otherwise the stereo will not sound very stereo ... think about it.  

 

I get you now - so 60 degrees is just to keep the sound consistent as having them in odd locations would mean uneven "sounds"...? Is 180 degrees too much?

[Petrol]

Those tweeters should be mounted as far left and right as possible.. .

 

 

 

Those tweeters should be mounted as far left and right as possible.. .

 

I didn't want to say after he'd chopped holes in his dash rail

 

 

It was tight to fit the tweeters, this is a replacement dash top rail - mine was rusty and was a bit concerned about knacking the replacement one up. I appreciate what you are saying though. I am trying to shed a bit of weight off this Mini - getting rid of the full length electric sunroof etc etc but I am sure that the ICE will be good enough for my needs.

 

Again, thanks for your help guys. I have learned a lot

 

 

Pete