49 replies to this topic

[jaydee]

Mike you have 13" thats why its sits higher, hes got 10" it will sit lower 

[minisilverbullet]

So raised the front one turn on the adjuster, and the rears a further one and and a half turns. 

 

 

 

There is at least 13mm gap between the bump stops and the top arm. 

 

Car sits a little higher, looks kinda cool i think. 

 

I am a bit embarrassed that i missed it it sitting on the bumpstops. On the drivers side the bump stop actually had a flat where it had rubbed on the arm. I just assumed that since that car didn't look low, it wasn't. Never even crossed my mind to  check the bump stops.  Happy i did. 

[racingbob]

wont you need to check tracking or is one flat not to worry

[minisilverbullet]

wont you need to check tracking or is one flat not to worry

No tracking was just done, since i raised it the camber will be reduced, I raised it the same amount both sides so I can live with that 

 

 

The car wasn't actually on the stops just about though. . 

[racingbob]

 

wont you need to check tracking or is one flat not to worry

No tracking was just done, since i raised it the camber will be reduced, I raised it the same amount both sides so I can live with that 

 

 

The car wasn't actually on the stops just about though. . 

 

that will alter the tracking ?? raising the car     more toe in

[minisilverbullet]

 

 

wont you need to check tracking or is one flat not to worry

No tracking was just done, since i raised it the camber will be reduced, I raised it the same amount both sides so I can live with that 

 

 

The car wasn't actually on the stops just about though. . 

 

that will alter the tracking ?? raising the car     more toe in

 

Really....I always thought the height changed only the camber angle? 

 

Can anyone confirm

[racingbob]

haven't you just done that, you now have less camber which will

affect the toe, more toe out I believe

[Cerberus]

yup, as you raise the ride height, the effective length of the bottom arm becomes shorter, which with the steering rack at the same length will push the back of the wheel out thus giving more toe-in (I think that's the right way round)

 

It's quite surprising how much it can change with a small change in ride height too.

This is the reason why I don't like adjusting the ride height on mine too much, I'd like to keep tweaking to get it just right, but it's so much hassle to then have to adjust tracking too that I've just left it where it is for now, it's probably not far off anyway now.

 

 

I believe altering the ride height will also change the castor, but I'm not 100% sure on that.  I'd imagine it does as it's the same principle as the steering rack.  If the tie rod stays the same length, but the lower arm gets shorter, then the castor will change.

 

 

Someone did post the order in which you have to adjust things to not throw out something you'd set before, but I can't remember what it was now,

Ride height was definitely the first thing to adjust, and I'm pretty sure tracking is the last thing.

Edited by Cerberus, 17 July 2013 - 08:28 PM.

[IainNeon91]

I have been running mine on the bump stops for over 2 months now, oops   

[minisilverbullet]

yup, as you raise the ride height, the effective length of the bottom arm becomes shorter, which with the steering rack at the same length will push the back of the wheel out thus giving more toe-in (I think that's the right way round)

 

It's quite surprising how much it can change with a small change in ride height too.

This is the reason why I don't like adjusting the ride height on mine too much, I'd like to keep tweaking to get it just right, but it's so much hassle to then have to adjust tracking too that I've just left it where it is for now, it's probably not far off anyway now.

 

 

I believe altering the ride height will also change the castor, but I'm not 100% sure on that.  I'd imagine it does as it's the same principle as the steering rack.  If the tie rod stays the same length, but the lower arm gets shorter, then the castor will change.

 

 

Someone did post the order in which you have to adjust things to not throw out something you'd set before, but I can't remember what it was now,

Ride height was definitely the first thing to adjust, and I'm pretty sure tracking is the last thing.

Thanks for the info! 

 

I guess height changes at the rear don't change toe and camber? 

[Cerberus]

 

yup, as you raise the ride height, the effective length of the bottom arm becomes shorter, which with the steering rack at the same length will push the back of the wheel out thus giving more toe-in (I think that's the right way round)

 

It's quite surprising how much it can change with a small change in ride height too.

This is the reason why I don't like adjusting the ride height on mine too much, I'd like to keep tweaking to get it just right, but it's so much hassle to then have to adjust tracking too that I've just left it where it is for now, it's probably not far off anyway now.

 

 

I believe altering the ride height will also change the castor, but I'm not 100% sure on that.  I'd imagine it does as it's the same principle as the steering rack.  If the tie rod stays the same length, but the lower arm gets shorter, then the castor will change.

 

 

Someone did post the order in which you have to adjust things to not throw out something you'd set before, but I can't remember what it was now,

Ride height was definitely the first thing to adjust, and I'm pretty sure tracking is the last thing.

Thanks for the info! 

 

I guess height changes at the rear don't change toe and camber? 

 

 

Correct, as it's only one trailing arm it just goes up and down, doesn't cause anything to lengthen or shorten that determines any settings.

[mike.]

Sorry if this is a dumb question and Silverbullet, hope you don't mind me asking this here. 

 

But why would my car ride higher on 13s when there isn't much difference in the radius of a 13 with low profile tyre vs a 10 with a high profile tyre?

 

 

Also Silverbullet I think you car looks just as good now its raised, the improvement in ride will be well worth running it slightly higher. 

[Cerberus]

If the rolling radius is the same then it will be the same height.

[jaydee]

Thats not a dumb question at all.

I know theres the common misunderstanding that rolling radius are the same, i dont know exactly where it comes from, proably due to fact they're within a percentage of difference that makes the swap legal.

Anyhow thats incorrect, get wheels of different diameter and have a look youself. They're accutally bigger!!

If you make the maths it will turn out that:

A 12" wheel will make the mini sit about 0.7" higher

A 13" wheel will make the mini about 0.8" inch higher

(Tyre pressure will play his role though.)

 

 

PS:

Heres a compare-o rama for tyres, saves us to make all that maths for such a thing 

http://www.mintylamb.../?page=tyre.htm

Edited by jaydee, 18 July 2013 - 12:53 PM.

[james962]

yup, as you raise the ride height, the effective length of the bottom arm becomes shorter, which with the steering rack at the same length will push the back of the wheel out thus giving more toe-in (I think that's the right way round)

 

 

Correct. This is why on the other hand, if you excessively lower the mini, you should use the longer track rod ends as lowering will give much more toe out. The longer track rod ends have a longer threaded section which will give you more adjustment to get more toe in.