
#1
Posted 28 July 2013 - 09:48 PM
#2
Posted 28 July 2013 - 09:50 PM
Does it have a dynamo? Did you leave it with the red light on??
#3
Posted 28 July 2013 - 10:15 PM
Ignition light glowing if you have a alternator with the key turned off usually indicates a faulty diode in the alternators rectifier pack, pull the plug out of the back of the alternator and then recheck the ignition light should go out
Another test is with the key off probe the small terminal on the alternator with the plug in with a multi meter on DC Volts and earth and check for any voltage, key off should show no voltage.
#4
Posted 29 July 2013 - 09:40 AM
#5
Posted 29 July 2013 - 06:46 PM
#6
Posted 29 July 2013 - 08:49 PM
The cables for the alternator connection only run as far as the solenoid so it might not be too bad. You need to open up a fair chunk of the loom for inspection now though. Have you got an uprated alternator fitted?
#7
Posted 29 July 2013 - 09:00 PM
As Dan pointed out the 2 brown wires dont actually go that far, I'd be checking the terminals in the alternator as well, as loose terminals caould have caused it by not making a good contact under load the heat has burnt the cable. Cut the loom back and replace th 3 as required
Edited by KernowCooper, 29 July 2013 - 09:02 PM.
#8
Posted 29 July 2013 - 09:12 PM
After reading responses from the guys on here i went out to garage tonight to do as suggested and thats when i noticed the charred remains,the copper internals of the wire have almost dissolved and yet the plug that goes into alternator has not melted.Is this likely to be an auto electrician job??.cheers
#9
Posted 29 July 2013 - 10:43 PM
Not a problem if your OK on wiring and could be done inside a hour, just depends how you feel about replacing the wires and fitting th correct terminals
#10
Posted 30 July 2013 - 04:12 AM
Not a problem if your OK on wiring and could be done inside a hour, just depends how you feel about replacing the wires and fitting th correct terminals
Depending on the year some vehicles were fitted with fusible links (hypalon or something like it) between starter lug and alternator - could be this has failed as a result of the reverse polarity.
It's supposed to be practically impossible to source new links now except from scrap vehicles so you could just replace with normal stranded copper if indeed you had fusible links in the first place.
#11
Posted 30 July 2013 - 07:52 AM
Hi Dan i don't think it's an uprated one but can you tell me how i'd tell please
If you don't know about the car's history then check the data plate on the alternator. Although the fusible link sounds like a more likely culprit, but you haven't said what car it is so it's hard to help much. I don't think when the links fail there is all that much physical heat damage around them usually.
Edited by Dan, 30 July 2013 - 07:53 AM.
#12
Posted 30 July 2013 - 08:12 AM
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: engine, electrical
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