31 replies to this topic

[stevelane]

After two years of rebuilding the engine and getting it running my city e is on the final stretch to getting it's MOT but I'm a little stumped with the electrics

When I was putting the dash back in with the switches I broke the hazard switch which meant I couldn't turn it off

Just bought a new one from minispares but nothing is working

At the moment I have no indicators or hazards. My rear screen heater switch isn't lighting up, the screen itself has never worked but the switch did. I also have no light on the brake pressure warning despite that being in the whole time until I had bleed the brakes etc

I also have no horn (insert rude comment here)

I also have a distinct lack of knowledge but I do have a multimeter, I think the phrase is 'all the gear, no idea!'

Can anyone give me an idea on where to start?

[Quincy Sparks]

Check the fuse box - horn, headlight flasher and brake failure circuit are all on the same fuse. If the fuse is not blown, check for corrosion on the terminals and the fuse clips. I had this problem in my Cooper, with intermittent failures traced to corroded fuse box, replaced with a new one and all the problems went away. Not a difficult job to do and I didn't use my multimeter either :)
More fuse info here : http://www.theminifo...data/?p=2765923

[Bungle]

sounds like a blown fuse

[stevelane]

Thanks guys. I will check that out

[stevelane]

Actually I'm wondering if I blew a fuse by wiring in the switch wrong. The white connected is obvious but there are two wires that attach to the sides of the switch and I could've put them the wrong way. Which colour goes in which side as you look at them?

[Bungle]

did you fit the switch live or disconnect the battery ?

[stevelane]

Erm........live

[stevelane]

Here's where I'm up to:

Tested all the fuses and they all seem fine, unless I'm missing something I have 8 in total? 4 in the fuse box and 4 inline, am I missing any.

Although they weren't blown they did seem to be a little corroded so I've lightly sanded the end of each fuse and I have indicators back and hazards. Now the hazard switch doesn't have the two side wires connected as I'm a bit nervous until I know which way they go!

I have no horn or headlights but my interior light has come back

Where do I go next?

[stevelane]

Anyone? I know it's something simple but a bit lost on electrics

[Dan]

The connections on the sides of the switches are just for the lamps in them. Polarity doesn't matter unless you have put LEDs in them.

Check the stalk switch connections.

[stevelane]

Ah ok, thanks for that, will connect them back up tomorrow then

The stalk seems ok for the indicators but not the horn

Headlights, I have a feeling that's a corroded bullet connector again

[stevelane]

Ok here's where I'm up to but I still need help

I checked all the fuses and they all seemed ok, nothing blown, so I checked all the connections and have them a rub with sandpaper

I also did the same for all the bullet connection at the front

I have taken the steering cowling off and checked the connections and we seem ok there too

I have got back: hazards, indicator, interior light and rear screen heater

I briefly had the brake pressure test light back but that's now gone again. I also have no horn and no headlights

The stalk that the horn is on has always been a slight issue, the flash has never worked but everything else did

Is there a way I can check the stalk itself? The indicators work on it but can I check that the switch for the horn press is ok and can I check that the headlight switch is working?

[stevelane]

Bump

[welldc]

Mine has 3 (or 4?) in line fuses just above the steering column and above the brake pedal.

My dip beam headlights went and I found one of those fuses quite badly burned and partially melted. Replaced the in line unit and had lights.

The glass fuse looked OK, ie: wire intact, but the fuse was knacked when tested for continuity.

 

Still trying to find out why it got so hot, but don't go out much in the dark!

[stevelane]

All of the fuses, in the box and the inline fuses have been tested with a multimeter. Beg hinting to wish it was that as it would be simple lol