Actually, you have done rather well, by finding the problem BEFORE tightening any nuts. Look back through the forum for various sad tales and you will see what I mean. Obviously developing an engineering instinct, by properly feeling that every bit works, as you go. A very experienced professional might use a very low reading torque gauge (not really a wrench, just a thing with a dial on it) on the crankshaft, noting the torque as each bearing is added and done up. But what you did is quite sufficient for most of us, and obviously found the problem in a timely manner.
The cowboy does not do any of that, but torques up everything, puts engine on box, and back in car, then asks a question about why the starter is turning it over slowly, if at all, starter motor or cables are smoking, battery boiling, etc..... The cowboy also puts bolts in the wrong holes, so they are bottoming and not clamping, mixes up the innards of his pot joints, swaps his tappets around at random, and does lots of other things that he will regret sooner or later, probably sooner. Some people grow out of being cowboys and become respectable engineers, sadly others prefer to stay as they are.
The cowgirl, on the other hand, tops up the oil through the dipstick hole. Not politically correct, I think, but I have actually seen it, and on a Mini.
Stick around here for long enough, and continue learning as you go, and you will be as much an engineer as any of us. I have every confidence that you will get a set of bearings to match your crankshaft soon. If you are stuck, and don't want to fork out for a micrometer etc right now, take the crank into your local engine reconditioners, and they will sort you out a set of shells, as well as telling you if it needs a regrind. A quick measure should not add much to the cost of the shells. Me, I would buy a micrometer, but only because I have some spare cash right now. It was not always so, and may not be so in the future, and I have had to do some dreadful money-saving bodges in my impoverished past.
