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#16 jaydee

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 12:33 AM

Heres how a cow girl does an oil change

 

 

 

C'm on Iain next one will be checking the thrusts! ;)


Edited by jaydee, 18 March 2014 - 12:34 AM.


#17 IainNeon91

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 12:49 AM

Thanks for the vote of confidence Tiger99!

 

And jaydee, that is definitely next on the to do list!

 

Just to ask, why a micrometre and not a vernier (manual)?? 

 

Because i just used a vernier calliper to measure the main bearing journal and, if i worked it out correctly, it read 44.50mm...??

 

They haynes says 44.46-.47 

 

Is a micometre more accutre/precise?? 


Edited by IainNeon91, 18 March 2014 - 12:58 AM.


#18 tiger99

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 01:32 AM

I love that video clip of the cowgirl! Just as well we are not politically correct on this forum!

 

As for the micrometer, it is maybe 10 times more accurate than the vernier, however a vernier is sufficient to tell you whether a crank is undersize or not, as that is done in steps of 10 thou usually. A micrometer will go one better, by telling you how much wear there is, in fractions of a thou, and whether the journal is oval or tapered, by measuring in several places. Both tools have their uses, a micrometer usually spans only 0-1", 1"" to 2", etc, while a vernier has a span of maybe 6 inches or more.



#19 jaydee

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 09:34 AM

What is politically correct? :shifty:

 

I love blonde girls, especially those with green eyes.. but that vid was too funny lol



#20 IainNeon91

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 12:27 PM

Well i measured the journals with a vernier and this is how they cam out, starting the flywheel end:

 

Flywheel main:

Flywheelmain_zps862ec8b8.jpg

 

1st big end:

1stbig_zpsaf83e857.jpg

 

2nd Big end:

2ndbig_zpsb1938b07.jpg

 

Centre main end:

centremain_zpsd945d136.jpg

 

3rd Big end:

3rdbig_zps877379f1.jpg

 

4th Big end:

4thbig_zps9c7cfeee.jpg?t=1395145355

 

Pulley main end:

pulleymain_zps1624e071.jpg

 

I will check them again with a micrometer, but they seem to be pretty close within the limits to me

 

Cheers,

Iain.


Edited by IainNeon91, 18 March 2014 - 12:28 PM.


#21 Cooperman

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 12:47 PM

Is that the original crank or the 'new' A+ one?



#22 IainNeon91

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 01:51 PM

Is that the original crank or the 'new' A+ one?

This is the re balanced and polished A+ one. Its the original crank that the pistons and rods I bought came off


Edited by IainNeon91, 18 March 2014 - 01:51 PM.


#23 Cooperman

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 04:40 PM

Now measure the original and show us what it measures.



#24 IainNeon91

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 04:56 PM

Just out of principle?? 

 

Surely the measurements of the new crank determine what new shells I need??



#25 Cooperman

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 05:04 PM

Yes, of course, but your original post stated that your engine 'locked up' when you did a trial build using the original bearing shells. if the original crank was undersize, then the thickness of the old bearing shells would be too great, thus causing the crank to lock up.

So check this either by looking at the face of the old bearings to see if they are stamped as undersize, or measure the old crank and compare it to the new one.



#26 IainNeon91

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 05:27 PM

Got some pictures of the original crank

 

Flywheel main:

1098flywheelmain_zps2dc3b2f2.jpg?t=13951

 

Centre main:

1098centremain_zpsc629d050.jpg?t=1395163

 

Crank pulley main:

1098crankmain_zpsff7eb5c1.jpg?t=13951634

 

I will go check to see if there's anything stamped on the old bearing shells



#27 IainNeon91

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 05:41 PM

You sure know some stuff Copperman!

 

No doubt, all of the shells said '.010 U/S'

 

5545158a-abba-4794-8986-4004e2d19ca9_zps


Edited by IainNeon91, 18 March 2014 - 05:43 PM.


#28 Cooperman

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Posted 18 March 2014 - 07:10 PM

There you have it, Iain. So you have no engine problem, just a need for the correct shells.

Enjoy building your engine.



#29 Captain Mainwaring

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Posted 19 March 2014 - 01:57 AM

I love that video clip of the cowgirl! Just as well we are not politically correct on this forum!

 

As for the micrometer, it is maybe 10 times more accurate than the vernier, however a vernier is sufficient to tell you whether a crank is undersize or not, as that is done in steps of 10 thou usually. A micrometer will go one better, by telling you how much wear there is, in fractions of a thou, and whether the journal is oval or tapered, by measuring in several places. Both tools have their uses, a micrometer usually spans only 0-1", 1"" to 2", etc, while a vernier has a span of maybe 6 inches or more.

 

 

With respect, neither are accurate if you don't know how to use them. Lot to be said for finding and old set of slip gauges and practicing to use both Micrometer and Vernier calipers.



#30 ricediana64

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Posted 19 March 2014 - 04:42 AM

Thanks a lot! That was a fast response! 

21.jpg 







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