9 replies to this topic

[Miniman321]

Fitted a electric ignition kit to my 1971 mini clubman after the condenser went and now only get one spark when it first cranks then nothing after that. What's happening ?

[KernowCooper]

Some have had issues with the trigger wheel on the distributor cam, sitting to low and brought it up under the rotor arm, some trigger wheels have a small reduction at the top to stop it being fitted to low. I have see some where you can press the wheel to far down and dont have the stop, you can get a trigger wheel with a rotor arm in one.

 

You have it wired up with the red on the coil + and the black on the coil - and your age car should be a 12v ignition.

 

There is a post in the FAQs on testing the Hall Effect triggers http://www.theminifo...-systemtesting/

 

It ran ok on points before the conversion ?

Edited by KernowCooper, 27 May 2014 - 09:55 PM.

[Miniman321]

Cheers for the reply, it was running fine on points but randomly got no spark which was a suspected faulty condenser. My mate said I should fit the electronic ignition to make it "more reliable"... Lol

[KernowCooper]

If you previously had no spark on points then carry out a full check of the ignition system, Rotor,Cap Inc Carbon Brush.Coil inc terminals and voltage and see what those checks reveal

[scr]

Also check that you're running the correct coil and ignition setup for your system, I once tried an electronic ignition system with a  ballast (9v feed) + coil. Which in part meant I was only giving the electronic dizzy 9v instead of 12v. Unsurprisingly it did not work!

[Captain Mainwaring]

Cheers for the reply, it was running fine on points but randomly got no spark which was a suspected faulty condenser. My mate said I should fit the electronic ignition to make it "more reliable"... Lol

 

Cheers for the reply, it was running fine on points but randomly got no spark which was a suspected faulty condenser. My mate said I should fit the electronic ignition to make it "more reliable"... Lol

 

 

Hehehehe...where I live now we have a phrase "kacang lupa kulitnya" or the peanut forgets it's skin - people have forgotten that sosmetimes a simple carb and points based ignition system can work very well, especially if one lives where I do where access to diag equipment etc may not be easy.

 

A properly set up points system will run just fine and is very simple to keep running and moreover can generally be bodged whatever happens to keep the car going. Nothwithstanding of course that a contactless system has got to be easier these days and can be just left alone.

 

I'm guessing that the reason you keep losing a spark is down to a power supply issue, not down to the ignition module itself, I wouldn't rule out coil, but I doubt it.

[Yoda]

As mentioned. you probably have a ballast ignition set up. Feed the coil with a 12v ignition controlled live and it will hopefully be fine. What colour wires go to the coil +ve.?

[KernowCooper]

1971 car should only have the White on the coil + and White/black on the coil -,  so doubt its been fitted with a ballast system but a simple check on the coil + voltage will reveal if there are voltage issues at the coil

[Captain Mainwaring]

1971 car should only have the White on the coil + and White/black on the coil -,  so doubt its been fitted with a ballast system but a simple check on the coil + voltage will reveal if there are voltage issues at the coil

 

My old CBX would occasionally cut out dead and refuse to restart - twisting the throttle hard back against the slow run stop and cranking would allow the engine to fire and then the bike would run OK ....cause? a loose chassis earth and the ignition modules getting their earth from the bowden cables....

 

I'm not sure what the hell this has to do with our OP's problem but I felt like waffling on for a bit

[phil hill]

My old CBX would occasionally cut out dead and refuse to restart - twisting the throttle hard back against the slow run stop and cranking would allow the engine to fire and then the bike would run OK ....cause? a loose chassis earth and the ignition modules getting their earth from the bowden cables....

 

I'm not sure what the hell this has to do with our OP's problem but I felt like waffling on for a bit

No, this is, as you are probably well aware, a common Mini problem too, engine earths can cause all sorts of weird starting issues.  

 

As the OP has an 1971 Mini I would expect the engine earth strap to be between the bottom of the engine/transfer gear case directly to the subframe-to-floor mounts and with a solid-mounted subframe the earth path *should* be good, but ya never know...........

 

Phil.