16 replies to this topic

[Pott]

My 83 Mayfair is having some issues starting and running. It cranks and fires fine, but once I let go of the key, it dies. If I try enough times, it eventually start and runs great until I touch the brake or try to put it in reverse. I've run the wiring diagrams and found the only place these two switches meet is at the fuse box which is new and all connections look fine. I've also checked the battery voltage, alternator, and cleaned all my grounds and starter conections.

Any help or past experience is much appreciated. 

[exuptoy]

could be poor charging and there is only enough left to run basic stuff. Saw it previously on a Nova where the indicators came on and the car was like a kangaroo in time with the indicators!!!!

Recently mine wouldn't run and was a pig to start, found a break in the coil wire!

[Stiggytoo]

What is it idling at?

[dklawson]

Does an '83 Mini have a ballast ignition system?

 

The engine starting and then stopping when you release the key is consistent with a ballast igntion system where there is a break in the pink wire connection OR a failed ignition switch.  

[Pott]

The charging idea is why I checked the battery and alternator. All works fine and when the car is running, the battery is staying around 14V. Also, it only dies with the brake and reverse, I can turn on all the other lights and accessories and nothing happens.

I don't have a TAC, so don't know exactly where the idle is, but I would guess around 8 or 900. doesn't matter if I increase it either.

I'm not to familiar with balast ignition, but I have an electronic distributer and what I believe to be a standard coil.

Is there a way to test the ignition switch without buying a new one?

[Pott]

So, just in case anyone was interested. I finally got the car running and seems to be it was a tunning issue. I adjusted the tappets, tinkered with the carb and adjusted the timming slightly.

 

Now I have a new issue. 

when I turn the car off, the batt and oil light stay on. when I disco the pos batt, they go out. Could I have fryed my solonoid?

[dklawson]

It is more likely that you have one of two problems... a failed ignition switch or a failed diode pack in the alternator.

 

With the engine off, disconnect the alternator plug.  If the two lights go out, take the alternator to a shop and have it bench tested.  If unplugging the alternator does not turn the lights out, take a good look at the ignition switch itself.

[Pott]

Thank you very much for the advice. The alternator is pretty old but looks in good shape. I'll try the test and go from there.

[Pott]

So I've had the alternator bench tested and it's good, I've swapped for a known working solenoid, I've disconnected the ignition berral harnes when the lights are on and I've even swapped the fuse block just in case and nothing has changed. The lights are still on and I have no idea where to go from here.

I disconnected the brown ignition wire from the solenoid and the lights whent out. So far, this is the only thing besides the pos. batt cable that turns off both lights. Is that normal or am I right in thinking the problem is still somewhere between the solenoid and ignition switch? 

[KernowCooper]

The ignition circuit feeds the ignition light and the oil pressure, slip the fusebox off and check for corrosion on its rear and if thats ok then its meter time and back track the wiring to see where those lights are getting a feed from

[Pott]

Does anyone know if the ignition switch has it's own internal ground or does it get it's ground from the wires that connect to it?

 

I ask because the car starts and does not turn off with the key and stays running when the barral is disconnected which tells me that switch is bad. However, when the car is off and switch disconnected, the oil and batt lights stay on. 

[dklawson]

The ignition switch does not provide a ground connection.  It switches a hot (brown) supply line to different outputs... such as the wires going to the coil, warning lights, and fuse box.

 

You said that the warning lights stay on when you unplug the wiring harness from the ignition switch.  Is that correct?  

 

Dave, would an '83 have a ballast ignition?  I'm wondering if the pinkish wire melted and shorted out to adjacent wires such as the brown feed from the solenoid.  What do you think? 

[Pott]

You are correct on the lights.

 

I don't have a ballast ignition and I've unwraped all wires under the hood and all looks fine. A melted wire under the dash seems unlikely considering the new'er condition of the harness. 

[Pott]

I think I've finaly got this one figured out. 

 

got the car running after re-routing some incorrect wires, but not very consistant. found good power comming into the ignition switch on the brown wire, but not always going out on the white. when the car wouldn't start, volts were dropping to 0 off the white wire, telling me that the switch itself is failing. When I waited for 12v to come back to that wire, the car started like a champ.

 

Anyone know where I can get a new ignition barrel without spending $80 a minisport?

[dklawson]

I am sure Seven and/or Mini Mania could source the switch but probably not for less than Mini Sport.

 

When you order from Mini Sport US you are really ordering from Europe anyway so broaden your search.  Check Mini Spares, DSN Classic, Somerford, etc.  You can buy the whole lock/switch assembly from Mini Spares for $35 GBP plus shipping. 

 

Also look carefully at your switch and its wiring.  Often the switches are the same with the pigtail wiring being different.  Take note of the number of wires on your switch and their color codes.  You may find a suitable switch at holden.co.uk.  Browse the 4 pages starting with the link below.  If you are willing to cut and splice the new switch wires to your old connector you are likely to find that one of the switches Holden has will work.

Holden.Co.UK

 

 

http://holden.co.uk/default.asp