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#556 andywaller

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Posted 02 December 2006 - 06:28 PM

dog its probably not worth getting the glass cut in half as you will need 2 of each window to get the overlap, and would make the doors heavier than nessasary, also the perpex is longer than standard glass so it will fit the channels in the doors.

see if you can get hold of some lexan, its the scratch proof version of perspex :)

i will send you a template of my windows and there you go!

oh yeah here are a couple of pics of the doors i tried to show the channel that has been cut but its difficult to get!

Posted Image

Posted Image

Edited by MOWOG, 02 December 2006 - 06:29 PM.


#557 Dog

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Posted 02 December 2006 - 06:31 PM

ta dude!!

Looks VERY simple to do after all!

#558 andywaller

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Posted 02 December 2006 - 06:48 PM

yeah im not quite sure how you will be able to do the channel as it has been cut bent and welded when the skin wasnt on.

#559 Dog

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Posted 03 December 2006 - 03:03 PM

Dropped the subby...

Before
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During
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After
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All thats needed now is for me to mix my orange paint.... :w00t: red and yellow hammrite... going to be fun....

#560 Jordie

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Posted 03 December 2006 - 03:09 PM

Why not remove the subframe mounts and fit new ones while the subby is off and your painting.

Looks good. well done

#561 Dog

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Posted 03 December 2006 - 03:13 PM

Why not remove the subframe mounts and fit new ones while the subby is off and your painting.

Looks good. well done

I've got some metal ones here to go on...
I was going to remove the mounts, but my socket wouldn't fit, so I couldn't be arsed to take them off.... :w00t:

They will come off when I underseal that part of the bulkhead...

#562 Dog

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Posted 03 December 2006 - 07:24 PM

Question;

Is it worth getting non-adjustable Heavy Duty Tie rod arms, to replace the standard arms?

#563 miniboo

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Posted 03 December 2006 - 07:29 PM

might aswell get the adjustable ones they aren't much more i dont think

#564 Dog

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Posted 03 December 2006 - 08:14 PM

What advantage do the adjustable one have over say standard ones?

Considering now, there is no-one really around here that can setup alinement... I wish there was, as I would of gone the whole hog, and got adjustable everything,...

#565 Jordie

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Posted 03 December 2006 - 08:55 PM

well you can adjust it which is the advantage.

If you higher or lower the car this will change where the wheel is positioned.

Adjustable bottom arms will sort the camber, but will pull the wheel forward, adjustable tie bars can counter for this.

#566 1984mini25

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Posted 05 December 2006 - 09:22 PM

You wouldn’t be so kind as to take a closer pick of the bit circled please

As I’m thinking of drilling through and taping them as the stud snapped, but with out taking the subfame off I don’t know…

Which kind of defeats the object of not having to go through the hassle of dropping the stubby and engine out.

cheers,

#567 Dog

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Posted 05 December 2006 - 09:46 PM

Well I'll get some pics later....
as I need to go up there...

#568 superted87

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Posted 05 December 2006 - 10:04 PM

keep going matey . hope your flip front goes ok. that guy that sold you it is a dude. maybe you should give him your car when it is finished :w00t:

#569 Dog

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Posted 05 December 2006 - 10:08 PM

keep going matey . hope your flip front goes ok. that guy that sold you it is a dude. maybe you should give him your car when it is finished :w00t:

Maybe :P

it'll be at MITP and SMD, drag wars is still a maybe....

#570 Dog

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Posted 06 December 2006 - 10:57 PM

Just got my Cooper S 7.5" Disks and calapers :-

Disks are knackered, so might treat myself to some grooved or grooved and drilled disks :crazy:




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