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! Update ! Engine Swap - Am I Missing Anything?

engine electrical

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#31 jamiepaulsmith

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 08:45 AM

Haha... the new engine is now in but I wish I'd knew to do this before hand.

#32 jamiepaulsmith

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 10:23 AM

Okay, so with the assistance of my older brother, the old engine is out and new engine has been painted and plonked in. We've wired it all up and plumbed it in but it won't start?! It turns over and you can hear it popping/banging to try and go but no success yet. We have fuel, oil and water loaded and a good spark on all plugs.

My brother has corrected the timing and believes it's now a fuelling problem as the engine flooded at one point (though this may be becaue we blanked off the overflow on the carb). Either way, he's put it down to an issue with the carburettor and suggested I try a new/different carb.

Side Note: I didn't realise the carburettor needed a spacer plate, so my brother used the throttle lever off my old HS4 carburettor to create enough clearance between the carb and inlet. I also didn't have the abutment plate for the throttle cable, so the throttle and choke haven't been connected yet. We were controlling it manually on the carb.

Also, how does the water flow on the inlet manifold work and how to you plumb this in from where??

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#33 tiger99

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 10:34 AM

The heated manifold is controversial. It is actually fairly useless as it will not help cold starting until the water becomes at least warm, for obvious reasons! Also, heating the mixture reduces its density, so less power when hot. The only time I would see it as being useful is for prolonged running at low temperature, when carburettor icing is a possibility.

 

I would leave it disconnected for now, and focus on getting everything else working. It could be plumbed in with a driver-controlled valve, like the carburettor heat on an aircraft, so it can be off unless needed.



#34 Rocket.

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 10:49 AM

Looking at the second photo of the engine bay is the 1275 supposed to have such a bent clutch arm ?



#35 jamiepaulsmith

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 10:59 AM

I wouldn't know. It doesn't look like a man-made bend, it looks more purposeful but I can't be sure?

#36 jamiepaulsmith

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 05:38 PM

Bump

#37 tiger99

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 06:38 PM

I am almost certain that the bend is a bodge by someone who was having clutch problems.



#38 jamiepaulsmith

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 07:54 PM

Okay, so replace the clutch arm? Should be simple enough as I might be able to use the one from my old 998 engine?

That wouldn't stop the car from turning over, surely?

#39 Jordie

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 08:00 PM

back to basics.

 

Turn engine by hand until TDC aligns on the pulley.

Remove plug from cyl 1 (radiator end) and check piston is TDC

Remove distributor cap and see where the arm is pointing (standard is 2 o clock position but dont worry if not).

Make a note of where the arm is pointing and fit the plug lead for cyl 1 closest to that.

Now fit the rest of the leads 1-3-4-2 anti clock wise.

 

Also what do you mean by not turning over? Turning over is starter motor turning engine to me. Not starting is the engine turning on starter, but not firing/running.

 

Jordie



#40 jamiepaulsmith

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 08:12 PM

Apologies, not starting/firing. It does pop and "bang" on occasions

#41 jamiepaulsmith

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 08:17 PM

I will double check the timing again tomorrow, but my brother and I used a timing gun to make sure TDC aligned with the pulley and that spark plug 1 was TDC also. I'll also double check the leads were fitted correctly.

#42 Jordie

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 08:28 PM

worth checking where the dizzy/rotor arm is pointing at TDC incase the dizzy shaft is 180 out.



#43 1984mini25

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 09:26 PM

What I've always tended to do is. With correction fluid or a paint marker, make a mark on the dizzy cap/body of the dizzy for no 1 ht lead, witch should be the top right/ 2 o'clock position. Rotate the engine by hand until it is at top dead centre for no.1. Remove the dizzy cap and see witch direction the rotor arm is pointing. Providing the engine/dizzy isn't 180 degrees out, the rotor should be near enough pointing at the mark you just made. If it isn't rotate the dizzy body so the rotor lines up the mark made, re fit the cap and try starting it. Once running adjust the timing as you normally would with the old strobe gun.



#44 jamiepaulsmith

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Posted 27 June 2016 - 08:55 PM

Okay, I've checked the timing again and it seems to be right. Spark plug one corresponds with the mark on the pulley as I checked it all with a strobe gun. The rotor arm also points towards 2 o'clock at this point. The leads are also plugged in 1-3-4-2 anti-clockwise.

I've also got hold of a HIF38 carb this evening. The same problem more or less occurred, though on one or two occasions the car 'grumbled' but still didn't quite start.

Wondering if easy start might be my friend with this issue.

I also don't have the exhaust fitted, just the manifold and downpipe, so wondering if the lack of back pressure is making it more difficult.

#45 jamiepaulsmith

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Posted 27 June 2016 - 09:01 PM

I also noticed a bit of white smoke at one point. Nothing drastic but assuming the engine has flooded.





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