27 replies to this topic

[Tom mayes]

Hi everyone, bit new to the whole classic mini thing so please bear with me if I get anything wrong!
I recently bought a 1980 mini city with a 998 engine and so far everything's going well apart from the biting point on the clutch is way too low.
We tried bleeding the fluid and adjusting the clutch but nothing has changed.
My grandad had a look and pointed out the clutch arm was bent and he used to have the same problem as me but once he changed the arm it was all sorted. My problem is that the arm seems to be sold out on every single mini parts website there is!
Does anybody know where I could get one or what else I could do to try fix this problem?

Cheers - Tom

[nicklouse]

call or mail south Lakeland mini center.

 

http://www.ekmpowers...nction=PP-LOGIN

[richmondclassicsnorthwales]

Hi,

 

If the clutch arm is bent, some body has done that.

Bad news is, this is a bodge job as the clutch is goosed. It is bent to give it more throw in with an effect to give more clutch to a non existing one.

 

Get a new 3 in 1 clutch kit, and buy a new arm.

 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

[AlexMozza]

Hi,
 
If the clutch arm is bent, some body has done that.
Bad news is, this is a bodge job as the clutch is goosed. It is bent to give it more throw in with an effect to give more clutch to a non existing one.
 
Get a new 3 in 1 clutch kit, and buy a new arm.
 
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

I've had it a few times where even with a new slave cylinder, clutch, plunger ect there has not been enough throw. Not always a bodge job.

[Spider]

Hi,

 

If the clutch arm is bent, some body has done that.

Bad news is, this is a bodge job as the clutch is goosed. It is bent to give it more throw in with an effect to give more clutch to a non existing one.

 

Get a new 3 in 1 clutch kit, and buy a new arm.

 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

 

Not necessarily that the clutch itself has had it, especially if it isn't slipping. Just likely to be the Arm, the Plunger and all the Pins.

[Ethel]

Bending the arm does little as the distance between its clevis pin and the slave cylinder remains the same. You might gain a little travel by the components making contact where they're less worn. Spinning the pins half a turn would do more, but not for long.

[nicklouse]

Hi,

 

If the clutch arm is bent, some body has done that.

Bad news is, this is a bodge job as the clutch is goosed. It is bent to give it more throw in with an effect to give more clutch to a non existing one.

 

Get a new 3 in 1 clutch kit, and buy a new arm.

 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

LOL!

 

dragging up old thread an spouting poor info.

[Carlos W]

Sometimes with ultra light flywheels there isn't enough travel.

 

Some people use MGB clutch rods apparently as they're slightly longer

[whistler]

Used to put a nut inside the slave cylinder, as a spacer, to give more throw. Nowadays would be classed as a bodge but it works.

[nicklouse]

Used to put a nut inside the slave cylinder, as a spacer, to give more throw. Nowadays would be classed as a bodge but it works.

 but it cant give more throw it can only take up slack and wear.

 

the throw is what the slave gives and that is provided by the MC.

 

the MC only move so far before it can hit the floor in turn the slave can only go so far before it hits the Circlip.

 

if everything is in good order and no wear and standard then everything works.

 

bending the arm or adding a nut will not change the amount of fluid pushed to move the slave so the throw stays the same.

 

but as the starting point is earlier and slack and wear can be taken up.  As standard there were at least two arms made the skinny early ones and the more robust later. (before going A+) even these robust arms could bend when we use HD pressure plates so we bent then towards the slave so they bent towards straight and the plunger moved the correct amount.

 

so what does bending the arm do. hide wear in the linkage (ball/plunger/hole in arm/clevis pin/casing/hole in arm/hole in pin/clevis pin) and or bent ball/arm or just to put any flex into the area you want it.

 

but yes it will make more of the throw useable.

[liirge]

I've had trouble with a lightened flywheel recently. Couldn't get the clutch to engage without the slave cylinder popping the plunger. I ended up welding a nut to the bit that goes into the slave cylinder, it has helped. I suspect that there's a bit of wear on the ball end of the arm. Interesting, the ultralight flywheel has an incredible amount of spacers on it before the drive straps. I suspect it wasn't properly spaces by the previous owner, there's too strong of a diaphragm spring on it as well; making the engine struggle when I use the clutch. Thrust bearings and end float have been checked, and within tolerance

[Spider]

Not sure if you guys are aware, but there were two length push rods - that I know of - used during different times in production. I haven't actually measured them, but it's only around 1/4 - 5/16" difference between them in lengths.

[nicklouse]

Not sure if you guys are aware, but there were two length push rods - that I know of - used during different times in production. I haven't actually measured them, but it's only around 1/4 - 5/16" difference between them in lengths.

That I could believe but only one part number is listed from 59-2000.

Same for a coil or diaphragm pre verto and the same for a verto....

Ok not got as many places to look as I believe you do.

[liirge]

Not sure if you guys are aware, but there were two length push rods - that I know of - used during different times in production. I haven't actually measured them, but it's only around 1/4 - 5/16" difference between them in lengths.

I've never heard that before; I wonder why they changed the length

[Spider]

The early one, 13H21, is the shorter one of the two (that I know of) , I'm not sure when they changed to the later 13H396.

 

I found out by accident I guess, then looked in to it.

 

I'm pretty sure the longer one can be used in place of the shorter types, but as I found out (by accident) the shorter one can't always be used in place of the longer one.

 

Just wondering if you guys that have been putting nuts under them have the shorter one?