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Bodywork Concerns On Potential Rover Mini Sport Purchase

rust repair

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#46 Northernpower

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 09:28 AM

Thanks northern power. I will look very critically and take photos, my mechanic friend now knows what to look for thanks to your advice and that of the others that have been kind enough to post.
My concern is that with so few in Scotland I can't take my mate down south if I find one I like so I need to be able to suss out problems myself too

You do need to be able to sort out problems yourself but if there is one where your mechanic can't get to you could always post on here and if you gave sufficient notice there may be a knowledgeable local member who would look at it with you.



#47 Boycie

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 09:35 AM

The Anorak is right when he says quality control varied.

 

It varied a lot and different era cars lasted better in different ways.  I think the 1960s cars had the best metal and paint protection, after then the money men got involved and really cut back on paint and panel prep.  The early to mid 70s cars were very poorly painted and finished.  Early 80s models were ok but when the 12" wheels were made standard in 1984, things got really bad!  At this point, the cars were rusting badly in places the 60s models never did, like around the glass and on the scuttle for example.

The later Rover cars are unfortunately the worst for paint protection.  It's not uncommon to strip down a late car and find bare metal underneath, not even primer  >_<..also, all the extra sound deadening just held the damp against the panelwork!  When the floor in my '76 gets a little wet, I remove the carpet (10 seconds) and it dries out in no time.  That's not so easy on the mpi cars.



#48 THE ANORAK

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 09:37 AM

Out of all the minis i have owned (see my signature if on a PC) the ones with the fixed rear quarter windows were the most rust free. Hindged rear windows do leak bad. Not a cast iron rule but something worth considering.

Edited by THE ANORAK, 19 May 2017 - 09:37 AM.


#49 THE ANORAK

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 09:40 AM

So manufacturers name can be a guide to the level of qc and standards to a certain degree.

But im still right in saying that they are basicly all made by the same company :-)

#50 jamesquintin

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 09:41 AM

Looking at the ad I can see a few bodges...

In the boot the speaker wires are having down, they should actually be on top of the parcel shell (but under the parcel shelf carpet), the rear window seal looks a bit iffy, doesn't have the finishing part the in the middle (could cause a leak there and rust out the seam)

 

In the engine bay there is a weird relay in the bottom right corner by the horn. No idea why that is there as there should;t be any wiring in that area (just a spare plug for the Aircon fitted on the Jap cars)

There is an extra earth clamp on the slam panel, which means there are earthing problems on the car, but rather than fix it, they've just bodged another earth! 

It looks like they have used the full length magnum door step panel that also has the bottom of the rear quarter. I can't see the indentations in the door step (there are two triangular channels under the cut out in the door rubber) and there is no join line between the rear quarter and the step

 

Certainly not worth £5K!

 

Have a look at my project to see what panels I needed for my MPI...

 

 

Q
 



#51 soutermcgavin

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 11:38 AM

Thanks, the majority of those points sound relatively easy fixes, I would purchase a new parcel shelf. The note about the step panel worries me though

#52 soutermcgavin

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 11:39 AM

What would a more realistic valuation be in your opinion if I had to make the repairs as noted? Happy to do the works if I got the car at a fair price

#53 soutermcgavin

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 12:22 PM

Would a dealer like GC Minis in Swanley offer good cars at reasonable prices or would it be better finding a car privately at the hope of getting a better price? GC offer MOT and a warranty but it may be that the cars are a little pricey

#54 Northernpower

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 12:27 PM

Would a dealer like GC Minis in Swanley offer good cars at reasonable prices or would it be better finding a car privately at the hope of getting a better price? GC offer MOT and a warranty but it may be that the cars are a little pricey

As you know, there are good and bad cars everywhere. You need to build up some knowledge and although you're now in a buying frame of mind you need to see quite a few examples to be sure you know what you're looking at and not buy the first one you see. Whatever you imagine its likely to need to put it right in terms of both time and cost you can double or even treble it; then you'll have spent your money wisely and have a keeper.



#55 THE ANORAK

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 02:09 PM

Good advice.

Also be sure your buying the right type of mini. Round nose, clubman, carb, injection, 10inch, 12inch, 13inch etc. Make sure you know what you want and then find the best you can.
its a bit of an investment and you want to end up with a keeper

#56 Shep76S

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 04:58 PM

Would a dealer like GC Minis in Swanley offer good cars at reasonable prices or would it be better finding a car privately at the hope of getting a better price? GC offer MOT and a warranty but it may be that the cars are a little pricey


GC have cornered the market and their pricing is very strong even allowing for dealer overheads. Some of their cars have been up for sale for many years......yes you get a warrenty, but is that any good for you in Scotland?

#57 soutermcgavin

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 06:25 PM

Thanks Shep, that is interesting to know. Would there be room for manoeuvre on their prices? Will be keeping an eye out for private sales but have always felt buying from a dealer gives you a bit of protection but I know that probably isn't strictly the case

#58 DeanP

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 08:48 PM

Be careful you don't fall in love, it can be love at first sight. The way they look at you sucks you in.

 

You then want the best for your little Mini, it always wants money, it constantly craves attention, but you wouldn't want it any other way. 



#59 Cooperman

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Posted 05 June 2017 - 11:00 AM

If it has 9" oversills be very afraid. They are a complete nightmare (read the full thread on this).

When buying any old classic car expect to have to do both body and mechanical work.

It it is a Mini and a first classic it is best to buy a previously restored earlier car. They are less complicated and less prone to bad rust. Maybe a 1980's 998 to start with. After all you don't buy a classic Mini for out and out performance, but more for the old car driving experience.

#60 r3k1355

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Posted 05 June 2017 - 12:18 PM

Thanks Shep, that is interesting to know. Would there be room for manoeuvre on their prices? Will be keeping an eye out for private sales but have always felt buying from a dealer gives you a bit of protection but I know that probably isn't strictly the case

 

When you have a flick through their eBay store it very much looks most of their stock is kept outside, except for maybe the rarer cars.

They don't have a high turnover, some of these cars have been sat for years in their yard.

 

Given your location I just wouldn't bother, they can't promise you any car will be reliable and given the distance it's not as if you can get them to fix any issues that arise.







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