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1972 Mini Van Restoration

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#31 The B team

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Posted 10 April 2020 - 04:15 PM

Where you get the tool please?
Need to get one but can't decide...

Ben


Just off eBay, this is the one I ordered, does both flare types https://www.ebay.co....tm/263509200093

#32 The B team

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Posted 10 April 2020 - 04:18 PM

Think that tools from Car Builder Solutions.
Check out their YouTube channel too. Guy did a video recently on that tool.

Is the flare in the photo a single or double flare...??

Whatever it is, I presume the other female fittings require the other type of flare.

About to start fitting brake pipes myself and would appreciate advice.

Great build by the way.


The one pictured is a single flare but the tool does both the single and double flare needed, great bit of kit, make sure to use the punch grease makes the flare better, doesn’t need much on it though and wipe the pipe after flairing!

#33 The B team

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Posted 22 April 2020 - 12:53 PM

Ok so some more progress! Things seem to be moving much quicker with all this time off... I wonder why  :whistling:

 

Since making a tool to fit the rear wheel cylinders quite a few bits have ended up on the car, progress seems fast but also slow at times with so much to clean up and paint! but its coming together nicely.

 

Finishing off the brake lines in the engine bay:

cwmyLtU.jpg

 

And some shiny new master cylinders:

YigViBA.jpg

 

The old studs were rusty and mangled on the pedal box so they were drilled out and zinc plated bolts welded in place, not the neatest but it does the job and isn't seen, and then all given a good coat of paint, interestingly only the clutch pedal required some work to get the clevis pin hole a nice tight fit again, it was welded up and drilled out to the right size.

rV3orFZ.jpg

 

m0rYXQ2.jpg

 

And the mounting bracket for the steering column: 

otUgeaN.jpg

 

Drive shafts have been stripped and painted as they were the last really greasy thing left other than the engine, Initially I was going to re-use the CV joints as they felt ok but after cleaning and dismantling it was evident they wouldn't be far from causing issues.

RJhortG.jpg

6e1zUyL.jpg

 

Wear through the hardened surface, once this has happened it just wears quicker until a ball bearing gets stuck in the grove and destroys the CV joint:

ye7snso.jpg

 

Rear hubs have been stripped down, the original Timken bearings were in great shape so they were throughly washed out and re-packed with some new wheel bearing grease. decided to paint the hubs silver just as a change from everything being black, not that it'll really be seen but it looks nice!

0i1QXsW.jpg

 

Packed the proper way by forcing the grease up through the big end of the taper, yes a bit more was lightly smeared over the top after this photo but from what I have discovered adding much more grease than this can lead to quick failure.

7yiaQNk.jpg

 

Brake assembly complete and hub torqued down with the spit pin fitted:

gEDnfnQ.jpg

 

Front end both sides looking like this now, still amazes me how much you have to crush the rubber cone to get the stock trumpets in, and once the compressor is removed the suspension is capable of lifting the whole shell from one corner without budging! hopefully with the engine weight in till start to move! 

uLS2XtW.jpg

 

 

Couple of questions for you all...

 

Has anyone had trouble fitting mini spares S/S headlamp rings? I can't get them to push back over the clips on the top of the headlamp bowl. 

 

And has anyone rebuilt a Lucas C40 Dynamo? Trying to find a replacement felt seal for the bearing end but can't find one anywhere!



#34 The B team

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Posted 26 April 2020 - 08:56 PM

Another productive weekend, beginning to enjoy this a lot more now I can see things coming together! hopefully I can keep the pace up!

 

Drive shafts built up: 

jSzz0TS.jpg

The flash of blue is purely to prevent corrosion and I just happened to have some blue paint lying about! 

 

New front Timken bearings fitted up front, I found It needed the "c" clip spacers on either side of the outer races to get the seals to sit in the right place, it came with 2 new ones and I had one of the originals but couldn't for the life of me find the 4th so 3D printed one instead, worked a treat!

re7lhfy.jpg

 

3D printed ring:

jJdNu5N.jpg

 

The boot clips that came with the CV joints seem to be rubbing the inside of the Hub which is rather annoying, just can't get them to sit flat enough, anyone had this problem? 

zDpB259.jpg

 

Front backplates have been built up, far easier to fit with the hub centre off, not that I would want to take it off every time I need to change the shoes! 

bdZseRS.jpg

 

And the drums have been painted and fitted this afternoon! beginning to get close to going on its wheels! 

QRtxoE9.jpg

 

One of the inner driveshaft yokes had the end cap popped off allowing all the grease to escape, carefully filed up a disk with an interference fit, popped in nicely, going to secure it with something like JB weld or Belzona:

2jzOXcM.jpg



#35 GraemeC

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Posted 27 April 2020 - 08:53 AM

Your CV boots look to be a long way onto the joint.
There should be a groove in the joint and (on decent quality) CV boots a corresponding lip inside the boot, roughly where your securing band is.



#36 imack

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Posted 27 April 2020 - 09:17 AM

I prefer this type of band, the clamp part lies flat, but you need the appropriate tool to install them.

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#37 The B team

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Posted 30 April 2020 - 12:21 PM

Your CV boots look to be a long way onto the joint.
There should be a groove in the joint and (on decent quality) CV boots a corresponding lip inside the boot, roughly where your securing band is.

On the drumbrake CV joints the grove is about 5mm from the edge of the taper that I painted, can't say I noticed a lip in the CV boot it's self so it could be a cheap one, came from minispares, the band is positioned slightly inboard of the groove as the first one I tightened started to rub, it does seem a very narrow taper in the hub, but if I move the band away from the hub any further it will be tightening on the flat section of the CV joint.



#38 The B team

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Posted 30 April 2020 - 12:24 PM

I prefer this type of band, the clamp part lies flat, but you need the appropriate tool to install them.

I have just purchased some more of these, have used them for the smaller (shaft side) of the boot as the pinch clips that came with the kit were too big a diameter to fit, seems a poorly put together CV kit to be honest, you can never tell what quality your getting when ordering online these days!



#39 Roddy55

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Posted 20 October 2020 - 10:19 AM

Looks nice. What colour of Grey did you paint it ? 



#40 The B team

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Posted 31 December 2020 - 11:51 AM

Looks nice. What colour of Grey did you paint it ? 

It's the original 'Skymist' grey 



#41 The B team

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Posted 31 December 2020 - 01:09 PM

So another update at long last, sadly not a huge change but have sorted a few things!

 

I suppose fortunately but also unfortunately I discovered an issue with the BRAND NEW drums from mini spares.... after painting them up and putting them on the car we were really struggling to get the braking system to bleed properly, we adjusted all the shoes up front and back, used a gunson's easy bleed to get all the air out of the system and had bled through close to 3 litres of brake fluid but could still not get a good pedal! 

 

It was at this point that I span one of the drums and found it was making inconsistent contact during rotation, initially thinking the drum was warped I removed it from the hub, prior to fitting I had applied quite a liberal amount of copper slip between the drum-hum mating faces on the drums, but noticed that the copper slip had not been transferred to the hub face despite a wheel being bolted to it, this was the same for all 4 hubs.

 

It seems during the manufacture of the hubs there is a chamfer that has been incorrectly machined...this was causing the drum to sit crooked on the hub and not actually making any contact bar the very edges! if you ask me this is quite a dangerous issue and had it gone unnoticed could have led to brake failure or a wheel coming off!

 

I got someone from work to machine a recessed chamfer so that the drums would contact the hub faces properly, he told me being cast iron you need a curved chamfer instead of a 90 degree edge which greatly reduces the risk of stress fracturing, which they had done but looking at the old drums they were recessed into face so he replicated the same with a curved lathe bit, after fitting the brakes pull up perfectly now!

 

Picture of the inside of the drum the silver ring in the middle is where the deeper chamfer had to be made:

vBaRU4x.jpg

 

On to some more positive progress now:

Dynamo has been rebuilt, figuring out how the felt seal end went together took some time as I just can't find any pictures of the assembly online!

Before:

RGLr22k.jpg

 

The assembly order of the bearing seal:

38FY2yO.jpg

 

Commutator was still in pretty good condition!

YVXzV8L.jpg

 

Strange on side sealed bearing, this faced into the rotor the open side with the felt washer to the outside of the dynamo:

jIlAvOU.jpg

 

Body cleaned and painted up, the older engines I believe were painted all one colour completely including gearbox and ancillaries but after a certain date only the block and rocker cover and dynamo housing were, hence the bare aluminium ends:

zUVf1cq.jpg

 

Finished product!

bPWlrWT.jpg

 

 

This means the engine is going to be black also, initially I was really wanting to do it the green colour but I'm trying to keep it as original as possible so black it is! I know originality isn't to everyones liking but I thought a van with such complete history deserves to be as original as practicably possible.

 

Steering column is now refurbished with new bushes inside and a fresh lick of paint:

T0p8hD1.jpg

 

krbqYe5.jpg

 

The housing was looking a bit worse for wear, a lot of elbow grease and various cutting compounds brought it back to how it should be!

bm4GCaC.jpg

 

xqLPLDV.jpg

 

 

I'm starting to tackle the rear doors, I have the glass in and new hinge gaskets but I could only get the main part of the gasket to go around the rear doors, on the LH door the middle section is missing where the doors overlap and this strange piece of rubber is attached, anyone know where I can get a new piece of this? and recommendations on how to stick the rubber together?

STeNCxP.jpg

 

 

Also I am running the battery cable, does anyone know how it should be routed under the subframe? I seem to remember it being cable tied at one point but sadly I have no pictures and can't find any online!

8FPGaYM.jpg

 

Hopefully more updates soon! I'll try and be quicker...


Edited by The B team, 31 December 2020 - 01:13 PM.






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