896 replies to this topic

[Viktor]

I think it is a good idea to spray some wax oil into the cavities on the rear subframe 

Thanks mate. I heard many people use that, but I have never used it. I would give it a go, as there are a few spots that were impossible to reach!

[Viktor]

So I started to remove the paint in the typical 'rust' areas and indeed there's rust in all of them. In fact, I don't think there's a single panel in my car that doesn't need attention. This is obviously my first project and although I don't have a specific timeframe to complete it, I'm just wondering at which point you make the decision of repairing your shell, or get another one?

 

Some photos of what I'm talking about:

 

The bonnet is quite bad, with lots of rust everywhere.

 

 

 

 

Passenger's side:

 

 

 

Front wing:

 

 

Roof, there was like 10mm of filler!

 

 

On top of the above, the floor needs replacing, the boot floor, wheel arches, etc. The list is as long as a weekend without beer!

 

I still want to continue with the project, but I'm not sure what would be more efficient / cost effective: try to repair this shell, or get a better one with no welding or minimum welding required?

 

Thoughts please?

 

Thanks.

 

Victor.

Edited by Viktor, 24 April 2021 - 04:45 PM.

[sonscar]

Unless the shell is new 10K? you may not be buying any better.Take stock now.Are you going to weld it yourself?I would resist the urge to "discover" any more rust without a plan to repair it.Unfinished projects can start like this.Have fun,Steve..

[Viktor]

Unless the shell is new 10K? you may not be buying any better.Take stock now.Are you going to weld it yourself?I would resist the urge to "discover" any more rust without a plan to repair it.Unfinished projects can start like this.Have fun,Steve..

Hi Steve, thanks for the comment. Yes, the idea is to do the welding myself. Otherwise it would be too expensive? I guess I felt a bit overwelmed today discovering rust everywhere. I did an Excel spreadsheet with all the panels I will need, with the prices from Heritage and M-Machine, long list though 

I would feel more positive tomorrow! 

[Gilles1000]

Same happened to me. I ordered loads of panels (and still not enough as I didn't think about the doors and bonnets).

The really bad point to me (if it is one) with a new shell is that I didn't find a correct period shell for my MK4. There are many small details like the openings in the roof gutters which are different in the new shells that I want to keep original.

Well, it's not that much, but the car looses in originality and some will say it's lost its soul.

 

Yours is an MK3 IIRC? So with the solid mounted subframe? Does it exist as a new shell? Not that you buy a shell for a lot of money and do not have compatible parts...

 

I would start the welding on scrap parts to exercise, and then maybe go on with the bonnet which you can easily enough replace if it goes wrong.

 

I wish you all the best for maybe the hardest part of the restoration, I'm also stuck in it. 

 

And if you need infos, do not hesitate!!

[steeley]

Mk3 minis are reasonably rare and the shells are different in a few ways

Keep the original and pick off bits one at a time ( you could get a second hand bonnet though)

When I did mine which is pretty much finished and just needs rolling road set up done on 7th May, it had

Complete new front end, outer sills, foot wells, rear quarters, boot floor, rear
valance and new door skins door skins

It does sometimes seem daunting but I did one repair at a time them did something more fun like rebuilding
Sub frame for example ( it’s very easy to get bogged down in all the body work but satisfying when it’s all done)

Good luck

[Viktor]

Same happened to me. I ordered loads of panels (and still not enough as I didn't think about the doors and bonnets).

The really bad point to me (if it is one) with a new shell is that I didn't find a correct period shell for my MK4. There are many small details like the openings in the roof gutters which are different in the new shells that I want to keep original.

Well, it's not that much, but the car looses in originality and some will say it's lost its soul.

 

Yours is an MK3 IIRC? So with the solid mounted subframe? Does it exist as a new shell? Not that you buy a shell for a lot of money and do not have compatible parts...

 

I would start the welding on scrap parts to exercise, and then maybe go on with the bonnet which you can easily enough replace if it goes wrong.

 

I wish you all the best for maybe the hardest part of the restoration, I'm also stuck in it. 

 

And if you need infos, do not hesitate!!

Hi Gilles, thanks for the advice. Yes my car is a MK3, not sure about the specific model. I cannot afford a new shell, and finding a good one for my model year seems mission impossible! I want to keep the car as original as possible, so replacing the shell is not the way to go, I agree!

I think I need to give it a go at welding, as you said, start with scrap and then try small jobs one at a time. I have done some research on replacement bonnets, it seems that you can get a good one for £50-£60 more or less. 

Thanks, I will keep asking questions, that is for sure!

[Viktor]

Mk3 minis are reasonably rare and the shells are different in a few ways

Keep the original and pick off bits one at a time ( you could get a second hand bonnet though)

When I did mine which is pretty much finished and just needs rolling road set up done on 7th May, it had

Complete new front end, outer sills, foot wells, rear quarters, boot floor, rear
valance and new door skins door skins

It does sometimes seem daunting but I did one repair at a time them did something more fun like rebuilding
Sub frame for example ( it’s very easy to get bogged down in all the body work but satisfying when it’s all done)

Good luck

Hi Steeley, thanks for your comments. I agree, sometimes you need to change and do something different to keep yourself excited and interested in the project. It happened to me when I was painting the subframes, so many coats and too much repetitive work! Excellent advice about doing one job at a time, I heard that a lot, so it seems the way to go!

Looks like your list was pretty much as long as mine, but I agree with you, once is done the satisfaction should be colossal!

Thanks.

If you are in Bournemouth, you are not far from where I live (Wimbledon) Do you know a fella called Melvin, who sells Mini parts in that area? He is all over the place on Facebook.

Cheers.

Victor.

[gaspen]

One way is to blasting the body then apply a coat of epoxy primer. After the blasting you will clearly see which panel need repair or change as the media will pierce the most rusted spots. The epoxy primer will protect the body from corrosion until you work on it and it is a good base for the later painting. After that you can start the work on the necessary areas. I did not go that way but it is a usual method. Maybe it sounds expensive but it is a rare Mk 3 

[sonscar]

My personal preference is to replace the sills first,although important structurally they are visually low impact so honing your skills.They attach to lots of areas which are also almost invisible so more skill improvement.Be accurate so the door fit is good.
Stand back and admire your work.This is very important and should be done regularly.Above all...HAVE FUN.Steve..

[Itsaminithing]

Being just a little bit pedantic you don't own a rare Mk3, you own a rare very early Mk4.... made even rarer by the fact that it's one of the first LE Minis.

(a lot of Mk3 panels were carried over for Mk4 production).

 

Am i right in thinking that some numpty has blocked the roof front drain channels? I don't envy you trying to sort that out!

Have you signed up for a college evening welding class yet?

At least this project should be easier for you than it would be for others.... Wombles are meant to be good at making things fit for purpose again

I look forward to seeing you crossing each completed job off the list, you'll get there in the end.

 

(PS: when you get to the end remember that you need Brooklands Green BVLC169 paint & not one of the other later Brooklands Green).

[Viktor]

One way is to blasting the body then apply a coat of epoxy primer. After the blasting you will clearly see which panel need repair or change as the media will pierce the most rusted spots. The epoxy primer will protect the body from corrosion until you work on it and it is a good base for the later painting. After that you can start the work on the necessary areas. I did not go that way but it is a usual method. Maybe it sounds expensive but it is a rare Mk 3 

Hi Gaspen, I thought about blasting the body, but it is going to get me nearly £1k to get it done, including the trailer to get to the shop and back. I think I prefer to invest that £1k in a good welding machine and panels. I saw many people doing it that route (as yourself) and the result seems to be very good.

Thanks, it is a rare car and I feel I have a big responsability to restore it properly. To be honest, I cannot see it other way, so happy to take that burden and get it done!

[Viktor]

My personal preference is to replace the sills first,although important structurally they are visually low impact so honing your skills.They attach to lots of areas which are also almost invisible so more skill improvement.Be accurate so the door fit is good.
Stand back and admire your work.This is very important and should be done regularly.Above all...HAVE FUN.Steve..

Hi Steve, thanks. I need to replace the whole floor as it is gone. The central tunnel and the cross member are fine, but the floors are very rusted. No floor under the driver's seat!

 

 

 

Sills and steps are also bad. Can the floors be replaced keeping the central tunnel and the cross member? I saw you can buy the floors with the sills already included, that might be the way to go for me?

 

Absolutely, having fun is the main purpose of doing this!

Thanks.

Victor.

[Viktor]

Being just a little bit pedantic you don't own a rare Mk3, you own a rare very early Mk4.... made even rarer by the fact that it's one of the first LE Minis.

(a lot of Mk3 panels were carried over for Mk4 production).

 

Am i right in thinking that some numpty has blocked the roof front drain channels? I don't envy you trying to sort that out!

Have you signed up for a college evening welding class yet?

At least this project should be easier for you than it would be for others.... Wombles are meant to be good at making things fit for purpose again

I look forward to seeing you crossing each completed job off the list, you'll get there in the end.

 

(PS: when you get to the end remember that you need Brooklands Green BVLC169 paint & not one of the other later Brooklands Green).

Thanks for your comment, not pedantic mate. I know very little about my car and Minis in general, so really appreciated.

 

Yes, the roof has a very nasty repair inside and rust in both sides. It seems that someone has blocked the drain channels. It might be the same idiot that sealed the bottom of the doors...

 

 

 

Good point about the welding class. I didn't know welding lessons were available. I will check in my area to see if I can get some classes, that would be perfect!!!

 

I'm taking my time on this project. Of course I want to finish it ASAP, but above of all I want to get it done properly, no shotcuts, just the way it should be done.

 

I'm making a note about the colour. I know it is Brooklands Green, but I wasn't aware that there are more than one!

Thanks for that, much appreciated.

Victor.

[Itsaminithing]

You have the correct 1976 doors fitted at the moment, if they're too far gone & you do decide to replace them make sure you don't get later ones by mistake (they have slanted internal door pulls & no indent in the bottom).